Zak's Z

I havn't seen KROIL anywhere here, nor PB Blaster. I have been using anti-seize on things Ive already taken apart and put back together... So far I've been lucky, 2 bolts in the front of the engine cover, removed no problem. 1 head bolt again got it out, now these 4. If I can get these 4 out (they're pretty important!) I'll consider the whole thing a success. I'll keep you posted.

Thanks Mike. I've been using my fiche cd alot, but I'm finding that I can't read some of the numbers.

I photoshopped my fiche enough to read a part number, it was missing some letters and blurry. I punched part# 08124-03010 into nissanparts.cc and it came back 08124-0301A BOLT. I guess I can just order them from Nissan. I power washed my half-shafts and diff and discovered the u-joints in them with zerk fittings. There was so much grease and crap caked on them. Now Im going to clean them up, paint them, new bushings, u-joints and as long as I can get the broken bolts out (fingers crossed) I'll be set.

I have my car up on stands and was removing the diff and half-shafts on the weekend. I knew these bolts would be a problem, I lubed them first, then used a torch and heated them up. The firast one turned a half turn then the head snapped off. All the rest broke off also. I noticed that the P/O must have snapped one off also because one was snapped off before I got to it. I guess the best way now is to drill/tap it. But I need new bolts. I looked in the fiche and I *think* its #20. It says BOLT HEX M10 x4 (but theres 5 bolt holes?). Anyone know the exact specs of this bolt so I can get replacements?

Thanks again, the ones that are in there now have Zerk fittings. I unsrewed one then put it back in because I wasnt sure what it was when I first saw it.

Tim, you really should deal with the rust in that area. You may discover its not that bad, or if its worse than you thought. I picked up a Z with a friend last year and I took a little pick with us and I got under the car after thinking the metal was pretty good. Sounded good, looked good, etc. When I jabbed that little pick into the floor, it went through. It went through the supports, frame rail and rocker too. I would take that soundproofing stuff off, and find out how bad it is everywhere so you can assess your best plan to deal with it. You cant put POR15 over it and forget about it.

I would scrape that black coating off first. It also looks more concerning closer to the seat. In the pic that looks like it may be a bit worse that surface rust. Since its the floors I would get all that rust off first. To do that, I would take a wire disc on a drill and just hit that area closest to the seats to see how bad it is. If its just surface rust, you can clean most of it off then prep for your POR application. If its worse than that, you really need to cut the rusty metal out and replace it. How does the underside of your floors look like?? How are the supports that go along the floors, and the frame rail area too?

Thanks Jonny.

What great timing on this thread. I took the diff out of my car last night, and the half shafts. Just looking at them I wasnt sure if they were serviceable or not. How can I tell if I have to replace the joints in them?

I'm in Canada so I had to buy it from the (only place here) authorized Canadian dealer.

I used a heat gun to 'soften' the vinyl in mine. I removed every piece of it. Headliner was a problem because pieces of the sponge kept sticking to the roof. After I had some slight glue sticking also mostly on the pillars. I heated it up with the heat gun and used a rag with varsol on it. That worked well. The headliner I just put back on because I wasnt going to clean that.

Hey, Its really easy although I think they do recommend using their 'metal ready' to etch the metal first so the POR15 sticks. I had rust in the same areas you describe and I used a paint stripper type wheel disc on my drill to remove every bit of rust in those tricky areas. I didnt use POR back there but I used it on my entire engine bay. That was quite a task. I cleaned off all the paint and surface rust with the wheel discs then used metal ready to etch the surface and give it some bite. Then cleaned it with Marine Clean and water. I dried that all off quickly and carefully. Then applied the POR15 with a small brush then applied their Tie Coat primer.

Well, if you're selling it.. who cares? Weigh the dollar amount it will take to bring it to your liking versus the dollar amount you'd recover in a sale. If you think you'd come out ahead and are willing to devote your time to it then do it. If I was selling it I would reserve myself to the fact that I might get less due to the PO's floor repair and just move forward with the sale.

I saw it this morning and looked at your ad. I knew it was yours because of your avatar pic. No offense but the floors scared me a bit. The car looks great, but it looks like there may be some rust on the edges of those old floors and the description doesnt say you knocked it all out for sure. Maybe a few more pics of the floors to show everyone they're ok? Again, not trying to be critical I just remembered looking at the floors. Good luck with the sale and I hope that doesnt hurt your price too much.

Thanks, I'll check mine.

Walter, how do you know if you've got a 79 model distributor? Any specific markings to identify it?

Heres a few threads on them: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=29518&highlight=brake+line+rubber http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=24585&highlight=brake+line+rubber

If were talking about the same piece, that black hard rubber piece that has the holes in it for the brake lines and gets held in place with metal clips on a few places in the engine bay and trans tunnel... We talked about this awhile ago I think. There was some discussion on trying to make repro's of those parts I think, and from what I remeber no one can find them. I really need a set also. My brake lines are almost ready to go and I only have 1 or 2 of them.

Give Charlie Osborne a call, he may have them. Hes in Ontario also. http://www.datsunzparts.com/ Did you try Black Dragon?

Black Dragon has a catalog of Z parts you can get from their website. http://www.blackdragonauto.com/ Theres also: http://www.datsunzparts.com/ http://www.datsunrestore.com/ http://classicdatsun.com/ and a few more I saw doing a google search...

I need grommets also and I looked a few up and heres the part numbers, they're showing as still available and pretty cheap... 18453-E8700 choke grommet 18218-E4102 Boot Accel Rod. 27243-28500 Grommet heater hose (2 req'd) I still havn't found the part number for that big one for the wiring that Banzai has...

Dan, give Charlie Osborne a call at Zedd Findings. I know he has had Tabco stuff in the past. He's in Kitchener and usually ships out right away if he has it in stock. He may take awhile to reply to emails so give him a call. Heres his website: http://www.datsunzparts.com/

Hey, Theres Charlie Osborne in Kingston. I've ordered some stuff from him and can say he's legit. He does take a few days to reply sometimes. Heres his website: http://www.datsunzparts.com/ If you have access to the fiche you can get part numbers for most things and try your Nissan Dealership. I think TransCanada Nissan is by you, I remember seeing it a few weeks ago when I was up there. I've had luck with a few odds and ends from Nissan.

Its cool here but sunny, same for the last few days. Ive got a 4 day weekend, so I've been in the garage getting my Z ready for new brake lines. Gotta get that layer of old undercoating all off the underside first. Heat / Scrape / Repeat. Snowing in New Mexico?? I can send you down some mitts and toques if it keeps up

Nice to hear Jared. Finally the good weather is here and the Z's are coming out of hibernation.