Zak's Z

I built the site for Ontario Z-Car Owners Association. I used vbulletin and some 3rd part mods to make it a forum with a homepage. Im constantly trying to get new color schemes for it (that will work after updates) that will be appealing but until one is settled on this is how it looks. Zak

Hey, I'm STILL not finished my car, but it has been painted and everything looks good. I would say that it was used for filler more than repairs and the rear hatch and corners look good (after prep and paint). It's been a few years since I got it painted and it looks good. If your brazing has been done for repairs rather than filling in some holes I'd have a serious look at it to assess if it would be better to remove it and get a proper weld. Now that you have her down to bare metal you don't want to cut any corners that might come back to bite you later.

Yep, I painted mine with POR 15 also. Forst I etched the metal with their 'metal ready' product, cleaned, then painted with POR-15. Use a respirator and outside. I then used a black rubberized undercoating spray over that. POR-15 is great if used for te right application and correctly.

I used a powerwasher, then small bbq wire brush with solvent and repeat. I did scratch up the front aluminum with the brush when I tried it there so I used a softer nylon golf club cleaner bruss.

ZCurves, that info sounds like it could come in handy. I have an old set of door panels that have a goof vinyl but one weak backing. I'm going to put that on my to-do list for this spring.

Hey, good luck on the car. Make sure to have a good look at all the usual rust spots!

Hey, looks good. I've always liked those. I was just looking at a few of those in Florida as I'm going down there next month (don't think the wife will ever agree to it though!) You should really enjoy the 5 months a year you get to drive it.

My car was much worse than yours. I'm in very good shape now, however the time and cost was more than it should have been. I did not see any shots of underneath your car, floors, rails, inner fenders etc. How do those areas look? Arne has a good point and it doesn't necessarily reflect on your car too bad, it's just likely it's going to be more work than they're willing to do on trade. I would take that as a good sign and wait to see what kind of quote you get. You may still be better off doing a partial-trade if you can. If everything UNDER the paint in those pics is good than you might not have to break the bank although it is gonna cost you to get a proper job..... like it always does! EDIT: Heck up here that car is '99% rust-free'

I'm going to put her back together this year and take her for a nice drive! Hopefully I can take a few days and do a road trip somewhere. Just gotta buckle down and get her all together.

I showed him this thread and he says he can't wait to start a union so he gets paid lunch breaks. Sorry guys....

What I would do is scrape all of that coating off to see how bad the metal is. It might be contained to that one area, which I would think needs repair... or it may be worse. It's really a safety issue at this point. If you catch it all now, and do the repairs you can prevent an even worse problem in the future. I had a bit of a hole almost the same as you, but when I got all that coating and stuff off I discovered I had a larger problem! My advice is keep digging until you are sure theres no other issues like more rusted metal or other holes around. If you are going to do a repair, do it right the first time or it might come back to bite you later. Posting some more pics that are clearer might help also. I can't really get a perspective on the size of whats going on.

Yep, no problem. Send us up 2 plane tickets to Texas and he'll do it. He says he'll even throw in a wash and wax.

My son loved to help me take apart the Z. It took us a few years to get it to where it's time to put it back together. We better hurry or I'll have to give it to him when he gets his license.

I think I'm right way more than I am obviously. If I was right even 51% of the time, couldn't I go to Wall Street or Vegas and make millions a day?:bulb:

I havn't had a cb for about 15 years. When my friend and I drove to Ohio to pick up his Z, I brought a set of FRS radios so we could chat without incurring cell phone fees. I got them for my kids for camping and we were able to be a few miles apart and still talk.

LOLLOL I have 2 kids in daycare, Thats why my 2001 Honda is not an Infinity G37!

Hey welcome to the site. If you've been lurking you already know how great the site is. Your Z looks great! If I ever finish my '72 I think I'd like one like yours.

Sorry to hear Jared, but if you list it right away you have some time before winter hits. I hope you get exactly what you're asking for it. Good luck!

Hi there. I don't know the difference between 2-seater and 2+2 floors. I think for you to get a proper prognosis on how bad the rust is, you need to provide more info. The 2 pics you provide of the floors look like they need replacing. I assume you know for sure the metal is rotted and needs to be replaced, and it's not just surface rust. I think you also need to show some pics of the underside of the floor pans, the frame rails, the floor supports, inner and outer rockers, etc to get a more accurate diagnosis. If it was just water on the inside sitting, maybe everything is great. But let's have a look. I don't know how easy it is to get 2+2 floors escpecially in your market. Why can't a competent bodyshop have a look and give you a quote on some new metal if its only floors? Would it be easier to have someone just make floors than to source some out and have them shipped? EDIT: Was writing this while Johnny'O was replying... looks like he found a source!

To do this properly you should remove the rusted metal. I assume by your description that the metal could be poked through with a screwdriver, or if heated with a torch would blow through. You should get rid of the rust but cutting it out and welding in new metal. I would see how much area is rusted out first. Once you start cutting it out you don't want any surprises! I agree that applying por-15 or treating it is a good thing to do, but not after you said all the metal is soft and mushy. Thats rust. Cut it out, patch new metal in there, treat it, clean it, por-15 it, topcoat that, prep and paint, finish beer.

Hey, I used Charlie Osbornes frame rails, floors and floor supports. Apparently they are the ones MSA sells. Give him a call for a price quote it might be within your budget.

Lookin' good Terry, you've got alot done since I saw you last.

The link you posted doesnt work.

110 Red is another color that isnt quite right when mixed with todays paints. I didnt have a sample so I'll have to live with 'close enough'.

Whoa whoa... lets not get too crazy here! Ron, look what you've done! I cleaned mine off with both sandblasting and wire wheels so theres no chance of me noticing any engraving artifacts. I can say for certain there is no evidence of stamping (although its been painted). There would be a slight 'rise' at the edges of the numbers where the metal would have pushed up (bulged) outside of the stamp.