LBO730

I have an Instagram and Facebook page. It’s called Brookland Leather. You can send me a g-Mail message from there. OR you can send a message in Messenger. I’m also on FB, Bryan Owens.

Sure, I can make one. I think I still have some of the material. Prolly be $25 + shipping.

Yep, That was me! Thanks for the compliment ZUP. I’m pretty sure I still have the patterns for those items. I can dig them out if anyone else needs 1 or all of them. I haven’t seen the repros from MSA so I don’t know close they are to the originals.

Yup! Shipping is a killer any more! Good luck with your project. I spent 7 years on mine. How far away are you from completion?

Mark, If you are willing to send me your steering wheel, sunvisors, door panels, your old shift boot and e-brake boot and the green thread you’re matching to I can cover/make new ones in black leather stitched with the green thread. I assume all of your pieces are in good condition structurally? Let me know if you’re still interested and I can give you prices. I already have plenty of good quality black leather on hand. I just finished the interior (seats, door panels, sun visors, steering wheel & dash pad of my 84 Vette in black leather with gray stitching. I can cover your seats as well if you want to send them to me. I’m in Bristol Va.

Mark, Outside of the shift boot and e-brake handle I wouldn't attempt to make a cover for something I didn't have in hand. Too many variables in my opinion. It appears that J F Customs does well at it but also have their problems especially with remedies and followup after the sale. My door panels are actually the original panels with several modifications to get the custom look. The steering wheel and sunvisors are pretty straightforward. The console isn't the original. I custom built the one in the car from scratch primarily because I didn't know if I could actually cover the original and make it look the way I wanted. The seat covers are made exactly like the originals with some foam added and additional padding in the covers.

GOGRIZ91 - Exactly what I'm looking for! Hopefully more of these come along. Mark - I posted some of my interior pics in my profile. Feel free to take a look.

Some of you will remember me (LBO730 - Bryan) from a few years back for developing the reproduction early style shift boots, emergency brake boots etc. for the early Z cars. You guys gave me overwhelmingly great support on that project. I'm still doing lots of stuff in upholstery and leathercraft. You can see a photo of the leather interior I did in my 75 280 in my photos. I wanted to see if you guys think there would be any interest in good quality leather wallets, key fobs, belts, wrist cuffs, mouse pads, phone cases, guitar straps, coasters etc. and maybe even purses & totes for the Z crazy females, all of which would be customized with something Z related. IE "Z", 240Z, 300ZX or just about anything you could come up with. (Making sure not to violate any copyright laws) Ideas & suggestions from the Z community would be great. You can see some of the stuff I've done on Facebook at Brookland Leather Co. Let me hear from as many of you as possible as to whether you think this could be a successful idea. Thank in advance for your input!

Hey Zed, I can still put one of these together for you. Just let me know. Bryan

Sorry Zed, Didn't mean to offend you. I thought I had answered all the questions. I'm obviously struggling to get the car started on my own. Let me try again. I'm testing voltage at the injector with the connector connected to the injector. I have 12 volts with the key on and a drop to 3.4 when cranking. Is this what you mean by "starting voltage"? Timing isn't off. Plug wires are in the right order. The noid light is pulsing weakly meaning that it pulses but the light is very dim. I would think it should be bright. I have read the "engine fuel chapter in the FSM numerous times and performed every test I can find. I have read the "1980 electronic fuel injection guide" numerous times and performed all 25 tests on the ECU connector plug. Some of the AFM tests are the ones that seem to be suspect. I know what makes the fuel injectors open and I know how the fuel pump gets its power. If I've missed any of your questions, please let me know.

No battery problems. Sprayed the starter fluid in and it putted for a few seconds. Still trying to determine if a faulty AFM, water temp sensor or water temp switch can prevent the injectors from spraying enough fuel. Inadequate fuel flow I believe is definitely the problem. Just gotta figure out why.

No luck yet. I ran out of time yesterday. I do have over 12V at the #6 injector connector with the key on but it drops to around 3 when I crank the engine. I haven't tried starting fluid yet. I'll do that tonight or tomorrow night. I verified timing and plug wire order early on. Stay tuned.

The noid light pulses, but very dim. I'm sure theres not enough fuel going in. It has weakly sputtered a few times but that's it. If I remember correctly, the #6 injector was showing about 3 volts when it was cranking.

Thanks Zed, The basics were covered long ago. Spark is good at the coil and all 6 plugs while cranking. The voltage/ pulse at the injectors is weak. I just can't figure out why. All wiring is factory. I have performed every test I can find in the factory service manual. I'm down to the AFM. Do you know if a faulty AFM, water temp sensor or water temp switch can prevent the car from starting? Believe me, I've put in the effort in trying to solve the problem. Any suggestions on what to do next would be greatly appreciated.

I'm getting desperate fellas! I'm sure it's been covered somewhere but here's some facts. Been working on this 75 resto for 6 years. Complete disassembly and reassembly. It's done but I can't get it started. I've been thru every test in the EFI bible at least twice. Passes all the tests. I have swapped in a refurbished ECU, still no change. I have 38 lbs of consistent fuel pressure. I have good spark at the coil and all 6 plugs. New fuel injectors and connectors. The distributor is in correctly (not off 180). I've double checked every electrical connection I can come up with. The air flow meter doesn't pass some of the tests. Can a faulty air flow meter actually prevent the car from starting? I have read that it shouldn't effect starting or idle and I have read that it does. Can A faulty water temperature switch or water temperature sensor prevent the car from starting? What am I missing? What else can prevent the car from starting?

Does anyone have a "known" working ECU for a manual trans. 75? My part # is A11-000-000. Thanks Bryan

Thanks Jonathan, Thats exactly what I was looking for. I appreciate it! One more question, what holds the top of the taillight surround panels to the body? Is yours rivets or screws? (Runs along the flat area where the hatch closes down) Thanks again for your help, I took this car apart 7 years ago and didn't take enough pictures. Bryan

Thanks Zed, I have the 75 FSM but it doesn't really pinpoint where they mount. I'm pretty sure I know, I just don't want to poke a hole and then find out I was wrong.

Any 75 Owners?

Could I get one of you guys to take a pic of your overhead retractable seat belt mount? The area above and to the back of the side windows. My interior panels have been covered and I'm not sure exactly where the seat beat anchors mounted. (been to long since I took it apart) Thanks Bryan

For what it's worth I have 2 - 4speed transmissions with the matching differentials from the original cars the were in. 1 was from a 72 240. & 1 is from a75 280 with an r200 differential. They getting closer to being scrapped.

I am looking for a solution to the fuel line hose (~1/2") that comes out of the fuel tank and goes up into the fuel pump. Conventional fuel line hose wants to crimp since its virtually a 90 degree turn and does so in a short distance. I'm assuming the factory hose was formed and I can't find a part number from the fiche for the original. Actually, as far as I can tell, the microfiche doesn't show a diagram for the tanks after the 74 model. Has anyone found an acceptable alternative for this? Also the 1/2" hose seems to be acceptable for the tank connection but the fuel pump inlet appears to be just a tad smaller. Anyone know the exact sizes. I think my fuel pump is the factory original.

Thats basically what I've tried so far but it doesn't want to come off peacefully. I'll try the adjustable wrench. That appears to be the only way. I'm going back with the brass pin bushings as well. Thanks for the input.

I know I'm probably making this hard but I hate to break a perfectly good shifter pivot bushing. Anyone know the correct way to get this off without breaking it. Its the plastic cup type bushing at the bottom of the shifter in a 5 speed. (Goes over the little pivot ball end) Its from a later 5 speed. (Probably 79-81) Thanks for any words of wisdom.

Hey Mike, I'll get a photo of the plates I powder coated as soon as I can.