BunkyScott

Does anyone have the plastic(2 piece) collar/jacket to go over a 72 240 steering column? MSA and Victoria don't stock/can't get it. I checked a few parts places and no luck. thanks for the help Bill

I bought the battery about a month and a half ago, so I never checked the water levels. Never heard of battery water freezing. I'm going to bring it back to R&S Strauss and have them check the charging system and the battery. Thanks for the replies

I had tried to start my 240 after a few weeks in below freezing temperatures. When cranking it over, (it took some time to start) I noticed that there was a little bit of smoke coming from the battery area. It stopped quickly and the car started. I did a quick visual check and didn't see any problem. The car idled for a while and I then took it out for a quick drive around the area. When I got back, parked in the garage and turned it off. I looked again at the battery and noticed that the top of the battery had water on it. Not a lot, but a few sprinkles. As I inspected closer, I heard a sizzling sound and the side of the battery had expanded on the negative terminal side. I pulled off the positive cable, then the negative (which was fairly hot) and put the battery on the ground. Any thoughts? As always, thanks for the help. Bill

I've got just about everything in my garage, except a fire extinguisher. Thankfully, I've never had to use one to date, but would like to feel safer if a fire did start. Can you all suggest an appropriate one for all around use in a garage? I've seen different types like A, A-B, etc. I guess I'd concentrate on one for engine fires? thanks for the advise Bill

congratulations Nuteman! A great accomplishment! Where are you in NJ? I'd love to compare cars. I've got a '72 240 with historic plates in NJ. Don't have to get it inspected, but can't drive it very far with the "classic car" insurance. ($130 per year)

thanks SBlake

I'm in the northern/central NJ area and there's a great shop in Passaic, NJ called 777 Auto. They/he specializes in Z cars. If anyone has other suggestions, please let me know. Oh, btw, how do I edit my profile to show what city and state I'm in?

thanks all. I do agree that safety issues come first and the reason I did the brakes before anything. I think I'll take Mike's advise and bring it to a Z mechanic for a full review. And I'm also hoping that it's 103k, not 203k

I've have my '72 240 for a while, but just had the time to really start working on it. Here's what it's like... -great interior, no cuts, clean -original L24 motor with 103k miles on the odometer -starts up without hesitation and runs pretty strong -just replaced all soft brake lines, master cylinder and servo hoses, brakes well -new plugs, wires, fuel and air filter -just replaced clutch master cylinder, slave cylinder/boot and shifts well -body is ok, except for usual rust spots..small hole in floor, where front fenders attach to body -exhaust is completely rusted, but doesn't sound bad at all -all bushings are really bad, tie rod boot is almost gone and feels like it's bottoming out when hitting bumps, just shakey all around in terms of suspension My question is...what next? I don't think I want to do a full restore, just get it running/driving well and then maybe fix the body and get it painted. Should I start working on the engine (general overhaul, new camshaft maybe?) What't the best way to determine whether the engine is worth it enough to put headers on and new exhaust without doing a full rebuild? Should I start with the suspension? I know there are a lot of variables, but wanted to get opinions from the group Thanks for the help Bill

After removing the m/c in my '72 240, I noticed what looked like white lithium grease inside the booster (where the m/c attaches). Do I need to lube the inside of the booster before putting in the new m/c? with what? How clean should the booster interior be? thanks for the help Bill

I'm working on my entire brake system(new master cylinder, check valve, booster hoses, etc,) just about everything except the booster and hard lines. Someone had mentioned that since the car's so old and sitting for some time, I may want to clean out the hard brake lines and to put some "de-natured" alcohol into the lines, let them sit, then blow them out with air, via compressor. Has anyone done this before? Where can I get this type of alcohol? Should I use something else? thanks, Bill

my Z restore won't be for a perfect show car and if I can save $150, I'd rather buy the VB brake booster. With these in mind, should I have concerns about non-OEM in general? Bill

I was looking thru my catalogs for a new brake booster for my '72 240 and Motorsport had it for $US330, while VB had it for $126. How can there be such a disparity in price? I can't believe the quality would be that different. I could imagine a 10-30% difference, but +100% ??? Bill

I've pulled the window out and checked the front channel visually while it's still on the door and it looks fine. Without the regulator attached, the window slides up and down the front guide without a problem. I haven't physically removed it from the door to get a real close look, but based on the fact that I didn't see anything funky and the window slides without being attached to regulator, my assumption was to replace the reg....really frustrating problem:( I did check with MSA and VB and they have the driver side, but no passenger side regulator.

Does anyone know where I can get a right(passenger) side window regulator for a '72 240. All the parts catalogs/dealers say it's discontinued by nissan, no aftermarket and only a junkyard item??