BunkyScott

Does anyone have the plastic(2 piece) collar/jacket to go over a 72 240 steering column? MSA and Victoria don't stock/can't get it. I checked a few parts places and no luck. thanks for the help Bill

I bought the battery about a month and a half ago, so I never checked the water levels. Never heard of battery water freezing. I'm going to bring it back to R&S Strauss and have them check the charging system and the battery. Thanks for the replies

I had tried to start my 240 after a few weeks in below freezing temperatures. When cranking it over, (it took some time to start) I noticed that there was a little bit of smoke coming from the battery area. It stopped quickly and the car started. I did a quick visual check and didn't see any problem. The car idled for a while and I then took it out for a quick drive around the area. When I got back, parked in the garage and turned it off. I looked again at the battery and noticed that the top of the battery had water on it. Not a lot, but a few sprinkles. As I inspected closer, I heard a sizzling sound and the side of the battery had expanded on the negative terminal side. I pulled off the positive cable, then the negative (which was fairly hot) and put the battery on the ground. Any thoughts? As always, thanks for the help. Bill

I've got just about everything in my garage, except a fire extinguisher. Thankfully, I've never had to use one to date, but would like to feel safer if a fire did start. Can you all suggest an appropriate one for all around use in a garage? I've seen different types like A, A-B, etc. I guess I'd concentrate on one for engine fires? thanks for the advise Bill

congratulations Nuteman! A great accomplishment! Where are you in NJ? I'd love to compare cars. I've got a '72 240 with historic plates in NJ. Don't have to get it inspected, but can't drive it very far with the "classic car" insurance. ($130 per year)

thanks SBlake

I'm in the northern/central NJ area and there's a great shop in Passaic, NJ called 777 Auto. They/he specializes in Z cars. If anyone has other suggestions, please let me know. Oh, btw, how do I edit my profile to show what city and state I'm in?

thanks all. I do agree that safety issues come first and the reason I did the brakes before anything. I think I'll take Mike's advise and bring it to a Z mechanic for a full review. And I'm also hoping that it's 103k, not 203k

I've have my '72 240 for a while, but just had the time to really start working on it. Here's what it's like... -great interior, no cuts, clean -original L24 motor with 103k miles on the odometer -starts up without hesitation and runs pretty strong -just replaced all soft brake lines, master cylinder and servo hoses, brakes well -new plugs, wires, fuel and air filter -just replaced clutch master cylinder, slave cylinder/boot and shifts well -body is ok, except for usual rust spots..small hole in floor, where front fenders attach to body -exhaust is completely rusted, but doesn't sound bad at all -all bushings are really bad, tie rod boot is almost gone and feels like it's bottoming out when hitting bumps, just shakey all around in terms of suspension My question is...what next? I don't think I want to do a full restore, just get it running/driving well and then maybe fix the body and get it painted. Should I start working on the engine (general overhaul, new camshaft maybe?) What't the best way to determine whether the engine is worth it enough to put headers on and new exhaust without doing a full rebuild? Should I start with the suspension? I know there are a lot of variables, but wanted to get opinions from the group Thanks for the help Bill

After removing the m/c in my '72 240, I noticed what looked like white lithium grease inside the booster (where the m/c attaches). Do I need to lube the inside of the booster before putting in the new m/c? with what? How clean should the booster interior be? thanks for the help Bill

I'm working on my entire brake system(new master cylinder, check valve, booster hoses, etc,) just about everything except the booster and hard lines. Someone had mentioned that since the car's so old and sitting for some time, I may want to clean out the hard brake lines and to put some "de-natured" alcohol into the lines, let them sit, then blow them out with air, via compressor. Has anyone done this before? Where can I get this type of alcohol? Should I use something else? thanks, Bill

my Z restore won't be for a perfect show car and if I can save $150, I'd rather buy the VB brake booster. With these in mind, should I have concerns about non-OEM in general? Bill

I was looking thru my catalogs for a new brake booster for my '72 240 and Motorsport had it for $US330, while VB had it for $126. How can there be such a disparity in price? I can't believe the quality would be that different. I could imagine a 10-30% difference, but +100% ??? Bill

I've pulled the window out and checked the front channel visually while it's still on the door and it looks fine. Without the regulator attached, the window slides up and down the front guide without a problem. I haven't physically removed it from the door to get a real close look, but based on the fact that I didn't see anything funky and the window slides without being attached to regulator, my assumption was to replace the reg....really frustrating problem:( I did check with MSA and VB and they have the driver side, but no passenger side regulator.

Does anyone know where I can get a right(passenger) side window regulator for a '72 240. All the parts catalogs/dealers say it's discontinued by nissan, no aftermarket and only a junkyard item??

Has anyone done this successfully? Any opinions on whether to do this or not? I had to replace the flare nut for the clutch master cylinder and cut the flare off the tube to get it off. Now when I try to flare it, the flaring tool needs space to get around the tube and the new nut won't go down far enough past a bend to allow the room. A friend had suggested cutting the line further down, flaring it and coupling another piece of line to make up the difference. Not sure if I want to do this, or just buy a whole new line from the clutch hose to the m/c. Thanks for the help Bill

It sounds as though the front sash is loose, or allowing the glass guide to slip out of it. -that's tight against the door metal and it's seated in the channel correctly If you have to pull on the window to roll it back up, that's a real good indication that the spring has broken, or that you have a very seriously misaligned system. -I do have to pull the window, -spring isn't broken, from what I can see, and seems tightly wound -the regulator arms are bent slightly differently, are they supposed to be straight? don't want to pull the other door to confirm

thanks Brandy and Enrique for the links, they were very helpful. Unfortunately, I'm still having problems. I've taken apart all the window components, greased and cleaned them. All rollers are fine as are the gear teeth for the regulator. My problem is when I roll up the window, it stops/slows about 1/3 of the way up. This causes the rear of the window to go up, while the front doesn't and this angle makes it even worse. The friction seems to be coming from the front sash, but if I remove the regulator arms from the window itself and just run the window up and down the front sash, it's smooth. I've taken the front sash off and checked it. Other than the normal slight curve, it's fine. No matter what combination of adjustments I make to the lower guide channel/front sash, it still doesn't work. The regulator looks fine, but I'm wondering if the regulator spring/coil has lost it's tension and doesn't have the power to push the front side up? Bill

The passenger door window of my '72 240 won't go down or up. It's stuck about 1/3 of the way up. I took everything off to expose the door shell and found the roller had come out of the bottom guide. After trying for some time to fix this thru the small openings in the steel shell, I was hoping for a better way to do this. No matter what I do, or how I position the window, I can't get the roller back in the window guide Any suggestions, tips, prayers are appreciated. thanks Bill

Thanks for the link Chris. what's the specific size for the flare nut I'd need how detrimental would it be to not double flare the tube? I've got a flaring tool, but never tried a double flare.

Hi All, I'm new to this board, but not new to z cars. I've had 3 different 280s and now have a '72 240. Problem I have now is finding new flare nuts/fittings for the clutch master cylinder. Just as WandererS30 did, I rounded the nut when removing the hard line from the m/c. Where can I buy them? I'd probably buy a half dozen to keep them around. Thanks for the help