240K&Beyond

Razor/Rob, Get that Car off the Lawn or it wont be the same once you come back. Three words: RUST, RUST, RUST !!! Lachlin, Nice, very nice. Looks like that rear pipe could do with a re-bore ! I'll pretend I did not read that comment about a Toyota Motor ;-(

I remember James Tailly sold another coupe mid last year with white flares on it. The are several pictures around of it. It's the one without a front grill and up on stands (A splash of blue and rubbed back duco rings a bell). I chatted to James, he knows a bloke in Melbourne making the flares from an original set of GTR flares.

Hey Tom, Guys, Well I have wrapped my two coupes up in mothballs as I have moved up to Sydney from Melbourne until the end fo September 05. I miss being able to tinker on them. So there has not been much to update. Just thoughts on what I want to do first. Oh that and keeping a watchful eye out for bits. I picked up a side mirror on ebay for $18 last week. ;-)

Peter, I have a freind that has done a R30 skyline power steering box conversion. He needed to change the steering column too as the lengths are often different when changing from power from non-power. Check the size of the steering boxes and where the steering columns attach before your begin. My mate used the column from an R30 with the R30 box, it all fitted in nicely after a little modification, However, there is a danger. Skylines use "negaitve" switching switches for the lights, indicators and windscreen wiper controls. Whereas C110's use "positive" switches circuits. Now, I might have these around the worng way, but they are completely in reverse to each other. You will need a keen knowledge of electrical/electronics to make the conversion. In a nut shell, you can make it work, but there is work involved !!!

No Worries Kent, Just thought it was a low cost, already stamped "NISSAN" solution. But if you already have the other bits, well...

Hey Kent, I keep saying it... Grab a set of front struts from an R30 Skyline, they are a direct bolt in replacement. Bigger wider vented rotors, still a single piston, but parts are still available.

Look at those Smooooth GTR Guards. Excellant Work !!!

Just a quick thought, you might want to get the R30 Brake Booster at the same time. It fits no problem, well, with the exception of the Clutch master cylinder. You need to mount the clutch cyclinder over about 2 to 3 cm towards the centre from the original mount. Just remember, if you are going to put rear disks on, you need a rear disk brake booster. These are slighty different to the norm as they have a small beed valve inside them to let the rear disks de-activate after appliing the pedal. Otherwise you rear brakes remain on.

Sounds like you need a freind with a 24volt cordless Angle Grinder. Bosch make one which is pretty gutsy. Short of that, A Gas Axe !

Does Everyone Own a Yellow Coupe or What !!! Nice pickup Kent. $500, a bargin for those Tail Lights ! ! ! As for the starting problem, my blue coupe does the same. I have better luck using 2 batterys in parallel, but I think it steems to be a cold start carby problem. Damn Anti-Polution pipes !

Kent, The next time your at the wreckers, look at the R30 pedal setup. I think they are the same. You might get one for a bargin. You might have to do some grafting work to mount the steering column in although! I kept mine to do my auto to man conversion, but unfortunately have moved to Sydney before I got to try it.

Hey Lachlan, I have found the best approach is with "Nifti". Spray it on and let it soak for 5 to 10 minutes. Do it in the shade too. If you need to scrub a little, use a light brush or even a tooth brush. Then wipe off with a wet cloth, making sure to rinse it regularly.

Going, Going, Gone at $1500. A Bargin (This time !) Does anyone know the winner? (akialexoudis) Joonix, where were you? I almost had a stab myself. Hum, 3 would be greedy !!!

Hi have done the conversion before. I used skyline R30 ales, but I had to shorten the shafts. If you go down that path, make sure the fabrication company you use does a good job on the welds. I broke 3 ales before they got it right. There is nothing worst than having to climb under a car on the side of the road and replace a busted axle.

Hi Fellas, I have run into a snagg. The bloke that made the original plates does not want to make any more. Back to square one :-( Add to this I am moving to Sydney for 7 months on the weekend, I might be up the proverbal creek to organise another manufacturer in time. I will see what can be done. 73skyline: These plates are for R30 not R31 rear calipers, the are different. You could modify the design to suite R31 as the offsets are very similar. However, as for Z brakes, the offset is extremely different, and I think you will find that you would need to make new axles to suite. This would over-complicate the process and would probably be expensive. I have heard of people performing R31 conversions, someone must have some details out there.

Cheers Lachlan, Try lying on your back looking up at the pedal with your nut and bolt ready. Then get a mate with a broom stick to depress the brake pedal through your arms. This give you clearance to fit the bolt. Trying to use your head to depress the brake pedal only ends up in frustraion and pain !!! The bolt you are looking for has as flatter head as possible. I used a unit with a flat blade head which was slighty curved.

Hi Kent, Try driving on some real roads not those ridge-backed, crater-infested and ****-eyed chaotic lanes you have there in NSW. Bruce, From the World most Liveable (And Driveable) City.

Hey Lachlin, The 1st Time I drove my yellow beast, the brake lights locked on too. I found it to be the brake pedal itself. That is, when I pushed the brake pedal down away from the switch, I could then press the switch with my finger. And wha la, the brake lights turned off. But when I let go of the pedal and it came back to rest on the switch, the lights still did not turn off. Strange? Looking around on the floor, I found a little bit of blue plastic. This prompted me to take a closer look at the pedal and switch arrangement with a torch and a flexible 360 degree neck. Sure enough, there is a hole in the pedal directly where the switch should come into contact with it. The bloody switch was poking into or slightly through the pedal. That is the pedal was not touching the switch at all. It appears that the K had a plastic "bump-stop" on the pedal which had shattered due to its age. This cushion (bumpe stop) used to mount to the pedal, through the pedal. And when it died, all it left was a hole. Applying the nearest "bush mechanical rule", I found a flat headed nut and bolt and filled the hole. Using the flat head of the bolt to rest against the switch. Hey, Hey, and what do you know, the Brake Lights went off. And it is still there today. Moral: Sometimes the simplest things can cause us to get unstuck, but it takes a special kind of nut to keep a 240k on the road. :-)

The reserve is $1500 AUS this time. Thats a bit more realistic. Good luck peoples.

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=2030&item=4530402960&rd=1&ssPageName=WDVW Its Back, on a 7 day listing, not bids as yet. I cannot see what the reserve is this time, but lets hope the Guy has had a reality check !!!

1/2 and hour to go, no one has bid for days, and it is still under it's reserve. I think this one is going to be passed in fellas !

Check out the original wooden gear stick, Nice. Hum, a '74, yep, another 4 speed. Joonix, I hope you have been saving !!!

I have just checked in with my mate that has already had a set of plates made. He has been trying to contact the original manufacturer of the plate. This guy has been on holidays and as such, my mate is going to try him again this week. Hopefully I will have an answer by next week end.