240K&Beyond

Hi Guys, Yeah Warren has several rear new light sets, he started at $100 each and offered them the me for $80 each tonight when I met him to pay for the car. I'm still not convinced that there are worth that. It makes the ones on ebay look good. Assuming that they are new ones on ebay! I don't want to post Warrens number, but if anyone is serious about buy them, personal message me, and i'll give you his number after checking with him.

No Worries Kent, It may not be to visable from the Pics, but the 240 crossmember is quite a bit longer that the other. Just a quick question, If you have a L Series G/Box, could you try and fit it to a RB motor. I would just be interrested if the two marry up. Cheers.

Hey Kent, I have a complete R30 Gearbox Crossmember and mount which look like the same as the 240k one, if not better. That is, the rubber insulator is larger and probably give less vibration. How did you go with the trial "remount" over the weekend? Did the L series Gearbox mount to the RB Series Engine? I always thought they were different! Note: Scratch that R30 Crossmember idea, I have just crawled under my coupe and it is different! Bugger! Pics Attached, The Gearbox with the Red Rag around it is the 240K, other R30. In the last Pic, see how the crossmember bends up over the exhaust. Hum the Problem is, I have the insulator on the 5spd, but I have just bought the ebay 240k with a slush-a-matic in it. Pending the first view, my thoughts are to put the 5spd in the ebay 240 and keep the 4spd in my current blue coupe. That being the case, if your ringing the wreckers, can you find a crossmember? Does anyone want a 240K Slush-A-Matic, or Parts there Of ?

Hey Tom, I have had a look around for the spare I thought I had and cannot find it. But, the bloke I have just bought that ebay 240k from says he has some. I will find out tomorrow when I pick up the car, would you like me to buy a LH unit and send it over to you? He is in Sydney and I will be back there tomorrow.

Mickie, I have built a L28E Turbo'd about 10 to 15 years about and it was bullshit, I still think it went faster in my '77 240k thank my current BNR32 GTR, and thats a big call. Whether I'm looking back thru history with rose colored glasses on or not, I'm not sure. Fuel Injection is the only way to go with Turbos, Carbies and Fuel thru turbos make for a bad, bad, inefficent powerup. I ran it with the original L28 Analogue EFI with a $500AUS aftermarket aux injector driver. Driving an 80Hp Injector. You need to lower compression a little, and think of intercooling. I kept my boost low (6psi), ran 2 head gaskets and no cooler back then. But parts are more easily accessable now. I'm planning to go down a similar path this time with a couple of extra tricks and improvements, I'll be interrested to see what you end up doing? Cheers,

Agreed, Screw-Ons, Well Suck ! Try and find the wire that goes to the coil. If there is that much of the loom left. Looking back to the ECU is probably going to do your head in !!! Are the Coil Balist Resistors in this configuration? What it an Automatic or Manual?

Hum Michael, It is different to the unit that comes from either a R30 Skyline or a 280ZX, I have one of each and the terminals are mounted directly on the side of the dizzy. Do you have a Multimeter? It looks like there are three wires on yours? I can probe my ones when I get home on the weekend and see what I get. We could then compare yours. I'm guessing you need a +ve Supply, relatively heavy cable to go to the -ve side of the coil, earth, but I'm not sure what the 3rd and possible 4th would be? By any chance, did you make notes before removing the unit?

Well Goodnight All, Let me just say, that I'm glad I found your forum and to meet some Cool Enthusiasts that share the K Passion. I'll keep you all posted. A Big Cheers.

Damn Adrenelin !!! I'm still going :~) 15 Seconds, I almost died, I thought I had it right on the mark ! I was hitting that F5 refresh way to many times. . . Hey Kent, Did you get the bits you needed from the bloke? I will be ringing him first thing tomorrow. Is there anything I should ask him for you or keep off?

Hum, Camera and Proud Father Is goind to get a work out soon. I'm a bit worried on the new unit as there are no pics from the front. Warren (The Old Owner) told me he had replaced the bonnet iron? My first 240K 4 door I paid $4200 back in 1989 and my second 240k, a coupe, back in 1992 was $3500, Granted there ceaper now, but How often do we see them. Now all I have to do is get it back to Melbourne from Gosford !!!

Ja- Hoooooooo Sorry Joonix, England My Arse !!! This ones is staying in Australia and going to a Loving Home!!!! Yeap Tom, I'll look around for an indicator for you Cheers All

Hum Kent, Don't hold your breath! As with your Engine Mounts, Nissan started playing games with us around the introduction of the RB Series!!! Regardless, I shall research it on the weekend for you.

Reading the Project Update, are you putting in a 240k box or a RB Series Box? would the insulator be different? I can look under my car this weekend and "take a picture" if it helps?

I might Kent, I have just picket up a 5 speed last weekend and my car has a 4 speed in it. I will look on the spare box on the weekend for you. Cheers,

Guys, I have just had a great chat with Warren (The Owner of the 240K Coupe on Ebay). He has a treasure of parts for 240K/240Z.s and has a lot of new bits as well as 2nd hand bits. He is thinking of posting a list of bits here. Lets hope !!!

Joonix, Go the Ford Cortina Please !!!, I would really like this one too! I bought a 240 K two months ago, sight unseen and it turns out the rear has cancer and it's incomplete. I really want a solid unit to begin with as eventually I wish to store it away in mothballs. Hum, people are hanging back from bidding, not sure to what extent others are willing to go, I do not really wish to bid against other Comrades. However, I would plan to have it shipped all the way to Melbourne. Your Thoughs PS: Kent, Depending on what happens, I might be able to chat to you about those bits and others. Including someone elses need to an indicator. Regards, bgw0666

Hey Tom, Yes the R30 is a great source of parts, I used to keep the secret to myself, but after seeing some many 240Ks butchered for bloody 1600.s I with I have told people earlier ;-( By the way, the Whole R30 strut is inter-changable with the K.s It cannot get much easier than that. As for the rear disks, a you need to have a adaptor plate made. A mate of mine has done it, when I get the tech-drawing, I can provide it. I live in Melbourne, however, I'm spending a lot of time up in Sydney with Business currently, when I get home I can go thru the relevant information. From Memory, the rear disks on a 280ZX are the same as the rears on an R30 Hatch. (Another Source) Hey Michael, Coupes are Different, completely, they often have different wiring standards to all other normals, it also depends on where the Coupe came from. South Africian Coupes are completely different to normal Japanese local deliveries. As for the Dizzys, there are two different types, both can be used in any application, however there is a better one of the two. It is quite simple to wire and there is no more points to adjust. It gets a little more complicated when using forced induction, but thats another story! Not sure on the "strange connector" need more detail, normally they have 2 terminals perpandicular to each other with electronic internals behind them (Black and very small). I should have a wiring diagram somewhere, I'll dig it up. Cheers,

Hello Alfadog, Thanks, I found this forum a couple of months ago and have been watching Kent's "progress" on his 240 project. I have just picked up a K coupe from Wagga about 2 months ago and don't have some good picks of it yet. I'll be glad to explain my plains for it a little latter. Unfortunatly, it is not as quite as complete as I would have liked and was lead to believe. So there is a bit more scrounging do do. I have played around with Datsun/Nissans for a few years now and thought it would be nice to share some information. Hum, BNR, your right. Regards

Kent, There is probably an easier way to do this, get a big diode (At least 3 to 4 Amps) and connect it from the "iginition/Start" terminal to the "run" terminal. The Cathode end of the diode goes to the "run" terminal. (Thats the end with the "band" around it.) This will supply volts from the "iginition/start" side whilest starting. Once you let go of the key, you will automatically continue suppling volts from the "run" position. Note: 1) If you get the diode around the wrong way, it would be pretty easy to tell as your starter would continuously be cranking. 2) You may need to measure how much current is going thru the "run" position wire in order to gauge what size diode you need. Good Luck.

Hi There, I have found the best and cheapest place to get an electronic Dizzy is from a R30 Skyline ('82 to '83) I picked up a complete TI Hatch for $300. A beavy of bits for the 240K. Struts, Front and Rear Disks, Power Steering, EFI, Oh, and the Dizzy! Cheers.