240K&Beyond

Thats Me with the first bid, but I already have two good bodies, so it was just an "emergancy save" bid if you know what I mean. Being I'm in Sydney, but my storage factory is in Melbourne, it will take a bit of messing around. So I don't expect to win the auction. Strange that there is not counter on the page. I like seeing how many people have looked at the car.

I shall find something to use it on on the weekend. It almost sounds like the "Exit" product might be a good buy. I wonder if I have the right one. This is steams from the original guy that gave me mine would not tell me where he got it from or what it was called. But he was happy to sell it to me at $40 a litre ten years ago. You have to love people like that.

Got It ! The Company Name is Peerless JAL Pty Ltd. The Head Office is in Melbourne at Preston, but they have an office in Sydney out at Seven Hills. The stuff is called RUSTOFF. Trade price is $32.51 plus GST. It normally sells for $42.00. Now the Sydney office had only one 5 litre container left and guess who got that. But they can ship more up from Melbourne on demand. For all those not located in either capital, deal with Melbourne directly. You may have to sort your own shipping out. I have not tried the contrete test yet, but it looks like the same stuff I have been using for years. Peerless JAL Pty Ltd Melbourne: 03 9416 8333 Sydney: 02 9674 3000

Found the name of the company and the rust removing product. They are located in Melbourne and Sydney. You can buy 5 litre minimum. That would last a life time. Unless you a planning a pool party Kent. I'll keep on the company and as soon as I have a result I shall post all the info. It looks lie about $40-45 for the 5 litre, so I don't think it's worth sharing a single purchase. The problem will be for those that want it transported. Oz Post will not touch the stuff - It must be an acid or dangerous chemical.

I think you might be able to use an R30 set of barrels and ignition key block as a complete replacement for the 240K. From memory the door locks a square rather than round, but it's the same hole - if you know what I mean. The boot may be another issue. No saying it will work, just suggesting an idea.

http://au.youtube.com/watch?v=UDK_avFLSY8&NR=1 Thought you might be interested in some Bahrain Madness. Best 180B I have ever seen ;-)

Guys, The Naval Rust convertor/protector is a fluid. When straight, a few drops on concrette burns a small hole in it. You mix it down with water. 20 to 1 is a normal good mix, but you can make it stronger. The problem with a to hot mix is that it starts to burn/oxidise the bare metal black. Properly mixed, it should turn a slight white colour. I shall ring a mate down in Melbourne that bought a 40 litre container of it recently. Apparently that is the minimum quantity it is sold in. Funny when I have made a litre last a decade so far. (You only need to use it once on a car - The rust doesnot come back) Thinking about it, they probably don't mess about in the Navy with rust protection. Living in metal tubs in a salt water bath. It's good ship. ;-)

Guys, A portable bead blaster (or fine sand) will get it done quickly. I always use this special stuff from the Navy for rust conversion and protection prior to paint too. I'll have a hunt around for it's name. It's not cheap, but it's the best. A straight mix of it burns a hole on concrette.

Keep trying only during business hours. Phil is a busy man.

Follow this link: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=21641 There is an original link somewhere around where I found Phil from Challenge Fibre Glasses contact detail, if they are not in this one. Let us know how much he quotes you for each item. Time can oftern be an issue with Phil, sometimes we need to make a run so he can bulk manufactor them. Cheers,

For Braided Lines, check out Goodridge in the UK. For a complete set for my bike I was quoted $320 in Australia, but finding these guys on ebay, it cost me $140 delivered. You would need to work out the lengths, angles and screw types, but still if you can weight, it's worth it. http://stores.ebay.com.au/wezmoto

Try ringing up Pilkington Glass direct, I have always found them to be better as they are the manufactors that supply O'Brian's. An at least in Melbourne, they have a fitting service.

Well all I can say is that nothing has been found to contradict what had been told to me 18 odd years ago or what I had seen with my own eyes. Maybe Danie can shed some light on the subject. He might know more of the engines origins and specifications. The Nissan bloke definately called it a racing motor and told me that is what the R stood for. It did not look and different to a normal motor. As I think I already had said, I did know anything about it until I had the head off for larger valves. But they could not put bigger in. That's when I knew something was different about my engine. I do remember the inlet manifold did not have that much polution kit on it. It looked the same shape as the Jap 2.4E available in Oz, but it did not have that large valve at the back, just a blanking plate. I wish I had photos of it. Anyway time will tell. I'm just glad to find another.

Hi Guys, well two years later, and I knew it would eventually happen, the proof is here !!! Guess what I found. http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=250277603714&ru=http%3A%2F%2Fsearch.ebay.com.au%3A80%2Fsearch%2Fsearch.dll%3Ffrom%3DR40%26_trksid%3Dm37%26satitle%3D250277603714%2B%2B%26category0%3D%26fvi%3D1 Or do a search on Oz Ebay for : "1984 Nissan Skyline R30 coupe" I have had a chat chat with Danie the owner, and he imported the car from South Africa, where is says there are quite a few of these. He cannot remember the block but it has a N42 head. And just look at the condition of the beastie. If I only had the money it would be mine right now !!! I'm going to send Danie the link to this site, and as he is another Datsun-Head, I'm sure we shall all welcome his membership. Just ask him about his efforts with his 1600 back home.

Found this and did not want to start another thread. 240K Dirt Style.

Ah Thanks, It must have been the 2000GT we had in very limited numbers out here in Australia.

Wait a minute Fellas, It must be slow in Toora this week, we have a price drop. Instead of starting at $5K with a buy now of $10K, we now have $1K and $5K respectively. If only it was a manual with 4 wheel disc brakes. But back to the thread at hand. Jim, have you ever heard of a 2000 GTEX? I thought the 1st turbos came out in the R30 body, Not the C210. There was a late C210 in 1980 that had EFI, but I cannot remember what litreage. For some reason, I'm thinking 3.0, but that cannot be right. You could tell the difference by the front headslights as they were large square units. And the rears were different too. Still, no Turbo.

PS: Can someone ring this guy up and tell him that he is dreaming !!! http://cgi.ebay.com.au/1982-r30-datsun-nissan-skyline_W0QQitemZ290236444131QQihZ019QQcategoryZ2030QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

This is the one that started it all with the L20A motor. It's a pitty that the turbo was removed because one of the hardest things to get is the original factory Oil Line and Sump for a suitable turbo conversion on a L24/28 system. There seems to be an endless supply of Cam covers and exhaust manifolds from the US ZX280 Turbo, but try and get the oil tap & lines. The strage thing about these setups it that there is no blow off valve. Back when I had my L28RET (home made) if you closed the trottle at over 4000 RPM, then the pipe from the turbo to the throttle used to blow off old school style. After a quick roadside replacement, away you went.

Kent, Do you have, or can you get a copy of the previous rego paperwork. It actually helps to prove that the car with that VIN was already rego'd. Otherwise it really is an uphill battle.

Hi Kent, You better reserve the number plate "CrazyK" now !!!

Maybe a long (not so high) intercooler down low under the bumper mounts. Then plumb it back, then up through the quarter panels. That is up where the battery used to be. That would keep the grill looking standard. But below the bumper would look mean. Don't forget intercoolers work better painted black, not polished alloy. That would hide it as well. But if anyone had any doubts, as soon as they see or hear you moving, all doubts are lost ;-)

Kent, I know it's not what you probably want to here, but if you cannot fit the intercooler day one, if you restrict the boost to 6 psi, you don't need a cooler. The downside, less power. Unless you increase the compression. Theoretically you should be able to get 350-400 Hp @ 6 PSI running about 9.5:1. Of course, as you increase the compression, the casual street drivability is reduced. That is: It will start to go from a puring kitten to a roaring monster in a snap. All of which tends to reduce rear tyre life. The major problem is how you increase compression. The cheaper way is to shave the head. It works fine, but is hard to reverse. Changing Pistons or Conrods is reversable, but expensive. Personally, I would like to see that big intercooler in the front of a K. Looking at the dimensions, I think the only way to do it is to remove the beaver panel under the bumper and fashion a new look or lip for down there.

Congrats Kent, your Evil Plan is almost complete ;-) I'm guessing you plan to put the RB26 is as stock, or to the level of modifications it has currently. I cannot wait to hear the twin turbos come on power in a K. You might want to fill the boot with concrete as the RB26 lights up the rear in two wheel drive mode. Alright, will this be the first in Oz?

Sorry about the url - I did not know how to shorten it. It's weird, the car is in Pyrmont Sydney with Queensland plates. And this guy rings a bell with me. I think I have seen him sell Stagea RS2600.s. Perhaps he imports from Japan.