240K&Beyond

There is a bloke in Sydney selling a 240Z, highly modified and I though everyone would be interrested in seeing what he used for tail lights. http://www.carsales.com.au/used-cars/private/DATSUN/240Z/details.aspx?__sid=11574C1D40AC&Cr=11&__Ns=pCar_PrivateSpecialFlag_Int32|1||pCar_ImageCount_Int32|1||pCar_LastModifiedDate_DateTime|1&State=All%20States&distance=25&silo=1003&seot=0&__Nne=20&R=5285028&__N=4294966615+0+834+285+257&Make=DATSUN&state_id=0&trecs=67

Ebay Item: 180213545196 It looks like a rusty bitsa, but someone might need it. Bugger - It's the same one !

Hey Matt, Do you have the pedal box to suit a manual conversion? I would been keen for a kit to convert my auto. I see the 5 speed on Ebay already. I Wouldn't mind the cross member to support it as well. I'm in Sydney and would probably met you at your work. Cheers, Bruce.

Here is an interesting piece, I think I have seen it advertised before. http://cgi.ebay.com.au/DATSUN-240K-2-DOOR-RACE-CAR_W0QQitemZ120206905126QQihZ002QQcategoryZ102220QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem Item : 120206905126 Someone is also having a parts clean out in Bendigo. Search for "240k"

Hum Matt, Just like that one. And look who's selling it Hey.

There is another coupe on ebay if you search for 240k. Blue, $1200 and in Sydney with damage down the LHS.

Kent, Kennards was going to be my next suggestion. I too can say that sandblasting is a most relaxing and effective way to remove anything. If you find a blaster, you might like to invest in an $80 car shade tent from Super Cheap Auto. The best temporary spray and sanding booth around. Just remember, the sand gets everywhere, including those sills and nooks in the A and B pillars. Don't forget to vacuum it out afterwards.

Kent, Just a thought from outside the box, have a chat to a concrete or brick cleaning surface contractor. They often use portable sand blasters that you might be able to hire. I have done it before and it's that best thing ever - it's like spray painting in reverse ! Just keep the sand grains really fine, or better yet use beads, otherwise you end up with a surface like the moon. Oh and remove all glass from the car (and the near by neighbourhood )

Hi Brian, That would be one scarey ride now. When I played around with turbos in a 240K years ago, the only way I could stop the rear from tuckin-in too much even after hearver springs was to use air schock absorbers. It will stop it, but raise the rear end. I ended up dropping the front by 2 inches as well, but under acceleration it still twisted and lifted the front quite a lot. People used to laugh at me with the stance of the car when parked at lights, but after taking off and them seeing what the car could do, they kept their comments to themselves. I will be interrested in how you deal with your susspension issues.

Kent, Congrats on the pic-up. I was going to mention I still have that spare centre console for you down in my garage. But it sounds like you don't need it. There were to different consoles. The older (71/72) has the radio on the bottom and the newer (75/77) on the top. I'm still looking for a newer with the blanking plate on the bottom where the tape deck would go. As for GT differences, I remember back in the late '80s when I was playing with my first two K's that a wrecker in Seaford Victoria had a gold GT that I used for parts. (If only i knew - $^#@$!!!) Well it had the badges but the standard tail lights. But I remember the Carby inlet manifold was different. Still a single, but tuned alot longer. The Carby stuck out from the head probably another 3-4 inches and still used a down draft. Cannot help any further as the K I have down in the factory that has he GT badges are after markets additions on a GL.

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Datsun-240K-Turbo_W0QQitemZ150146162441QQihZ005QQcategoryZ102220QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem For those that are interested ! A bit pricey and I have never seen a LPG Turbo before. But it's nice to see a meanie ever once and a while. When I ever get around to doing my two up, I'm still thinking 2.8 EFI Turbo and Black, Black, Black. ;-)

It's Back - TAKE 7 , the lucky one right ! http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ih=020&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWA%3AIT&viewitem=&item=300135269732&rd=1&rd=1

Alpha You would Know, But didn't the GTR only come out in 72/73. with the 4 Spd and quare air wents. None of that 76 vinage.

I want to see if the reserve is over $3500, if it is good luck. The problem is that I think Brian offered him $5 or 6K but he would not take it. The way he is going, he is still going to be owning this beasty when it's the only one left on the planet. Then I'd pay $9990. It's going to be a long wait lads !!!

Forget the Soarer unless you don't mind using tech-screws and liquid nails. I had a mate with the twin turbo and a 5 spd. I remember the first time I drove it and gave it a bit of stick. The owner was in the passenger seat telling me or asking me how good it was. I was still waiting for something to happen - if you know what I mean. Anyway, it was falling apart on the inside. I fixed his "starwars dash" after having to take just about everything including the steering column out to get the cluster out. Everthing was cracked or in pieces. The roof lining, the roof panels, wall panels, seat belts, door panels, everthing. I fixed it all up with silicon, tech screws and liquid nails. Which lasted, but the doors were so heavy that the trims continually cam off. I'm still a fan of the more nimble R32, but they are getting on the older side. If you can hold out for that good Nissan, it's worth the hunt ;-)

I just checked in on it 5 minutes to go and know bids. Go figure. Yeah, If I have the room I would go to $3-3500. Probably the higher figure if it was a manual. They way you don't have to go through all the conversion pain. It just Is ;-)

Take 5 ! Well I hope it has been garaged, the last time I saw this it was still on the lawn. I wonder what would happen if he started the bidding at $3500 and counted his losses. It might even get to what it owes him. Still, I would be interested in the "bolt on" turbo kit. I have never seen one for a 2.4, only the 2.0 and 2.8. And for that, you would need a new head, injection manifold, pump, and automatic transmission. Unless he is thinking of turbo charging past a carby !

All that Money, and He (Alex - Who reads this forum) and still has not taken any new pictures. I wonder if the Turbo kit is purely a L20A Conversion? I remember being able to buy those setups with the engine for $300. Now it's getting hard enough to even find them. Probably out of registration now too.

Nigel, I changed the Diff, I do not beleive you can change shafts on the original K diff. For the life of me, I cannot remember what flanges I used. But being that I used a R30 Diff and Axles, there is a good change I used the flanges as well. But, something keeps me thinking I needed something off a 240Z (not 240K) and it migh have been the flanges. Have you tried to fit the flanges? Did the dust cover fowel on the stub bearing case? Or does it spin freely?

$2020 with holes in the bonnet ? And the Value keeps rising ;-) http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI....m=330085777077

I cannot remember how much to shorthen them. But it's pretty easy to work out. Jack up the rear or the car so that both wheels are off the ground and measure the length of the axle. That's you max length. I then removed a spring, but left the shocker in. Compress the wheel up as far as it will go. Measure the short length. Putting the spring back in and dropping the car back on the ground, bouncing on it a couple of times to make it come to rest. Measuring the axle length now should be half way (mid length). You need your CV axles to reflect the same measurements. The danger is if the axle is too long or short, the following will happen: 1) To Long: When you drive over a hard bump and the spring compresses, you will hear a loud bump in the rear end. The same can occur when performing a tight turn whilst applying power. This is casing the axle to compress and effectively hitting/banging the axle into the side of the diff. 2) To Short: Travelling over a crest of a hill or becoming airbourne and the axles will extend to it's maximum and if the wheel needs to travel further downward, it willpop the axle out of the side of the diff. This type of driving condition does not happen as often as the first instance above. I aird on the side of caution and made my axles 5 to 8 millimeters on the short side. From memory, it cost me about $75 to $90 AUS to shorted each axle, but that was ten years ago. The only other thing I could think of that could possibly cause and issue is that if you were planning to put a wider R200 diff in, then you better check the maximum angle that the CV joint can move. This would become a concern when the diff is wider, the axle needs to be a lot shorter. When the wheel is at maximum downward travel, the CV joint will be at max angle. If the CV cannot made the angle, then I don't think it will last to long.

BARGIN !!! http://www.carsales.com.au/pls/carsales/!cs_content.private_vehicle?total_rec=39&selected_make_index=22&search_distance=25&vehicle_id=3692272&state_id=-1&current_rec=13&search_type=21&used_rec=0&make_id=37

Hi Guys, Long time no post ! The guy selling the bits (I think) is the bloke that advertised 3 240Ks on ebay over Xmas last year. (if you remember I got all three for $300) That White 4 door he is stripping is one of the two I left had to leave behind. It had been hit and scrapped down both sides. Which was a pitty as it was very clean otherwise.

Nope. It was not me.

William is selling it. He is located in Noble Park Melbourne. The car was registered, but it ran out 3 months ago. I'm asking wether it could be driven around Melbourne on a temporary permit. (Maybe to a storage factory in Seaford !)