240K&Beyond

Sorry to hear it Tom. What can you do? If I ever have to release mine, you are first in line. And I'm always keeping an eye and ear open. My parents live in the country and they tell me they see a red coupe driving around every once and a while. They have a standing order to chat to the driver when they seem him. You never know. It only took me two years to get my first !!!

Kent, How does it attach to the original location of the oil filter?

Nice to see things being kept in the family ;-) Kent, how did you go with your fibreglass moulds? Brian might want a set put in the boot before the car goes !

I think the car is now unregistered too. The guy bought the car to make a profit. I think he is learning the hard way that he may have to keep the car for another decade to achieve this.

When I turbo'd my L28, I broke 1 clutch, 1 gearbox, 3 half axles before the cv conversion, rear drums continuously, several demerit points and a boot load of tyres. Hell Kent, I didn't realise you have just about fitted everything into a K. Thanks for the input.

Hi Alan, The guy (Simon Gishus I think his name was/is) had two of these 2 door R30.s imported from South Africa. One, which was Red, was quite plush in it’s interior (red everything) and I think it had a L20A turbo 2.0 litre originally. But when I first saw it, he had already ripped out the original 6 and was in the process of installing a FJ20. The second car was a cream, very ordinary looking inside and out. It’s from that one my motor cam from. Now I don’t know whether it was made in South Africa or Japan, I cannot ever remember talking about it to Simon and the Nissan engineer never mentioned it; Just that it was available in South Africa. As for the Engine number, I have been rooting around all my paperwork as I know I have the original hand written receipt somewhere. And it should have the number on it. I never “legally” registered my 240K coupe with that engine, so I don’t have that as a lead. Unfortunately, I think I may have left the paperwork with the EFI information down in my Melbourne factory with the cars after moving to Sydney recently. But I’m still looking. . . The block definitely had an R stamped on it with the engine number. I just cannot remember if it was in the format L28RXXX or L28XXXR. The later could suggest an aftermarket modification as you suggested, but that would not explain the Head Valves having NISSAN stamped on them, or the fact that the Nissan Engineer was able to find something out about it’s specifications. As for other specialised markings on either the block or head, I cannot remember any of these. To tell you the truth back then I didn’t know there were different heads or blocks, just different bores and strokes. I have a box of old photos (hopefully in Sydney) I will have a look around for any further information. If I have some pictures, this might help with the fuel injection. But I cannot remember it being any different to the ones I have just ripped out of a R30 hatch and a 280ZX. I do know that the Head had squarish ports on both inlet and outlet. And I had to grind out the Turbo exhaust manifold from a L20A to match the head. Oh, and the inlet manifold was able to be bolted onto another L28 at one stage, but I had to grind some lugs of the standard exhaust manifold for the inlet to bolt up correctly. Finally, no offence taken, I have been looking for information on this motor for years without any results. And I have never heard of anyone else talking about them. That’s why we have these forums ;-) And if I can provide as much info as I can remember, hopefully that might be enough for someone to remember something, or provide a clue where to look.

If only it was a manual, I'd pay One Million Dollars ;-( I still have a lot of pictures of the car, I can send them to you upon request when it's relisted for the 4th time.

Lachlin, back to your original question and my comment, If you plan to go down the L28 path. You should look for an 81-83 280ZX manual car. These have the F54 Block and the P79 head. Have a look at the following: http://www.geocities.com/zgarage2001/engine.html

I have opened up a new thread. Sorry Jim, I have already been there without result. Google SA is a very hard thing to deal with. Unfortunately my old 240K coupe died with the engine in it. A bloke "T-Boned" me which pushed me off the road into the back of a parked 10 tonne truck. I recovered the engine from the wreck, but never got it running again. It was eventually sold with a 240Z I had at the time. I lost track of it then.

Years ago I owned a L28R engine that was purchased from a bloke who had imported it into Australia in a 2 door R30 Skyline from South Africa. It became clear that this was no ordinary engine. I asked Nissan’s Head Office if I could get the specifications and possibly a manual for my L28R engine. This was when it got interesting; They said they have never heard of such a beastie. I asked them to follow it up further. Two months past when they returned with an answer, well actually, it was a question: Where Did You Get This Motor From? I explained the history, to which there was a long silence at the other end. The Engineer at Nissan Australia’s Head Office explained that this engine was in fact a racing motor and that’s what the extra R in it’s number meant. It was a limited release and should not be in the country. Yes, they were release in South Africa as there laws were more relaxed. Apparently, the engine had the larger spec’d head, a fully balanced crank, larger bearings and flat top pistons producing 10.5:1 compression. Just out of interest, has anyone else heard of, or experienced a L28R? I would like to know more about their origins, were they were release as Nissan Australia really didn’t want to talk about it. Unfortunately, The engine and car have long since passed.

Potential Hijack Alert: The L28 R No John (Blue Leaf), It's not a typo, It was a very special engine that came out of a 2 door R30 vintage Skyline that was personally imported from South Africa. It was around 1990 so my memory fades a bit. I cannot remember if the engine number was L28XXXR or L28RXXX. Where XXX were the numbers. I didn't think anything of it when I bought it 2nd hand off the guy that imported it. I also bought an L20A turbo motor and a 2nd hand T3 Nissan Racing Turbo. The plan was to put it all together and teach myself about EFI systems. The guy I bought it of "Simon G" had just started a garage company under his parent's house called "NisPro Performance" which is now quite well known in Melbourne and Oz for making some pretty silly engines. I think he was the 1st to pull 1000 HP out of a RB30 and for that matter the Ford BA4.0T engine. Anyway, he said that the motor used to beat allot of V8's around in it's stock form in the 2 door coupe. I took it with a grain of salt, bought the bits and went home to construct my new 240K heart. At that time intercoolers were at least $1500 so it was not an option. Knowing this I went down the "Low Pressure" Turbo, "High Pressure" Cylinder path because at lower boost pressures, the air into the engine is cooler and does not need an intercooler. The advantage to Low/High is that you get quicker spool up times, better low down grunt (engine rev wise) and neck snapping acceleration. However, the disadvantages follow that: You need a very strong bottom end of the motor, there is more potential to achieve predetonation (pinging) and a few other nasties. Consequently, Most car manufacturers go down the High/Low path using an intercooler as the result is more driveable, safer, and there is less risk to the engine. It's probably cheaper in the long run too. So, keeping all that in mind I wanted to reduce any air restriction both inward and outward of the motor. Off went the head and down to a head specialist to port, polish and put bigger valves in. I was confused when I got the call from the specialist asking what I wanted him to do as the head already had the biggest valves in it he had ever seen. And the funny part was they were all stamped “Nissan” WTF ! He tested the valve springs and said they were good for around 7000 RPM and were as good as what he was going to put in. So I got the port polishing done as he said he could not grind them out anymore than they were already quite large. I jumped on the phone to Nissan’s Head Office and asked if I could get the specifications and possibly a manual for my L28R engine. This was when it got interesting; They said they have never heard of such a beastie. I asked them to follow it up further. Two months past when they returned with an answer, well actually, it was a question: Where Did You Get This Motor From? I explained the history to which there was a long silence at the other end. The Engineer at Nissan Australia’s Head Office explained that this engine was in fact a racing motor and that’s what the extra R in it’s number meant. It was a limited release and should not be in the country. Yes, they were release in South Africa as there laws were more relaxed. Apparently, the engine had the larger spec’d head, a fully balanced crank, larger bearings and flat top pistons producing 10.5:1 compression. Needless to say, I got off the phone and jumped in the air for joy. I quickly put the head back on the motor using two head gaskets to lower the compression down to 10:1 and bolted the turbo and all its bits on. Spent two days tracing out the EFI wiring loom and wired it into the car. The first time I took it out on the road after the exhaust was installed, I was happy with the acceleration as it seemed a completely different world to the original carburetted 2.4 litre six. However, it started pinging at 3500 RPM and ran out of fuel at 4000 RPM. Needless to say, my learning curve had only just begun and there were plenty more tricks to learn in building an EFI Turbo Motor. But I have been crapping on for ages now, if you like, I can explain some of the tricks later. Just out of interest, has anyone else heard of, or experienced a L28R? I would like to know more about there origins, were they were release as Nissan Australia really didn’t want to talk about it. Miles (Sakijo) in your travels, has anyone ever mention them?

Hi Lachlin, Knowing budget contraints, I would go down the "bulit it up" slowly path. Myself, always the L28, unless I had a spare RB26 lying around, and who does? My old K coupe had a L28...R motor in it which I bolted a T3 hair dryer to with an extra 80Hp injector system. Running 6 PSI, two head gaskets and no intercooler, I was puting out 350HP at the rear wheels. No matter what I did to the diff and suspension, I couldn't stop the back wheels from spinning in any gear (including 5th) There was nothing better than crusing around at 80 to 100 kms and dropping them hammer next to another car, bagging the rears and taking off with two trails of smoke. Chasing any more power would be life threatening ! But back to the subject at hand, I have checked with Vicroads and the NSW RTA both say that you can drop a L24/26/28 Cary or EFI into a K without an engineer's certificate. Making things too easy. I assume the QLD RTA would say the same. I have chosen to keep the "Old School" approach with the L28EFI. Although I am planing a toyota supercharge, T3 turbo charger hybrid later down the track. Built for torque and quick response. You get the car registered quickly and easily with the L28 engine number and insurance companies can see the car without "hitting the roof". Then build it up later and the engine number still matches all records. Personally Mate, look for a 1983 280ZX manual car. They have the F54 strengthened Block and the P90 Head with larger valves. And a manual EFI system which will wire into your car with only six connections. (I have the EFI docco if you need it) I bought one off ebay registered for $1100 AUS a year and a bit ago. Stripped what I needed and dumped the rest. This would give you an good starting point to which you could decide where you want to go: Further EFI work, Turbos, Superchargers, Triple carbys - whatever. And at the end of the day, when you lift the bonnet of your old school skyline, you don't have a face full of techno. Just something that looks original, however tricked it may be. This is my preference and opinion - I don't mean any offense to others. Keeping it Simple ;-)

I have seen this car for sale three times now, but it still has not sold. Why? The best thing about it is the extractors and 5 speed box.

What Did they Do? It looks like they used it to open up the shipping container. Kent, you might be able to ask Phl to fix it before the mould. Goodluck.

Congrat's Kent and we all thank you Miles ;-) Yep, count me in for one of everything, with possibly two grills. Kent, when I chatted to Phil about it, he said it will not cost you anything to have the moulds made. Just when it comes to getting replacements made. I cannot remember the price estimates, but there are discussed in one of the treads somewhere. Damn, I hate being out of work. I would take two of everything otherwise.

I just found another coupe on sale in the OZDAT classifieds: Datsun 240K Coupe 1973 model (Round rear tail light model),Auto, Air, White in colour, Body fair with minor rust around the body. Motor was recond about 2 years ago, seats and roof lining are in as new cond, rest of the interior is in above average cond, Interior is all black. The car has 4 near new tyres on standard rims. Car is unreg and has no rwc. Car Identification: KHGC110-002252 Price: $590.00 Neg Location: Gold Coast QLD Contact: Sasha Grbic Email: grbic@optusnet.com.au Phone: 0421894172 (hours: Anytime)

Thanks Art, I didn't know that the coils had different resistances. To recap, what your suggesting is to : 1) Replace the original 8 volt coil with a new 12 volt one. 2) Provide an "ignition switched" 12 volts to the "b" or +ve side of the coil. Alpha, I'm guessing it's a good plan. Personally, I don't think you need to panic as I have been running "just the dizzy mod" for a year without failure. But you and I will have to do it for best reliability.

Arh forgive me here, but my understanding of Ohms law and transistor theory tells me differently when operating at lower voltages. Firstly, The resistance of the coil is fixed, likewise the resistance of the wire feeding it (or for that matter a ballast resistor), regardless of any voltage applied. Secondly, Transistors will operate correctly for years at lower ratings then their maximum voltage or current ratings. They specify a maximum "safe" limit for a device to operate reliably. If you exceed it, then it could and most probably would fail. Finally, If you reduce the voltage applied to a circuit and keep the resistance constant then the current must reduce as well. (You don't magically get more energy appearing in a closed system). V=IR which transposes so that Current (I) equals Voltage (V) divided by the Resistance ® Example: If V=4 and R=2 then I will equal 4/2 or 2 Amps. Now if V only equals 2 and R remains at 2 the I will equal 2/2 or 1 Amp. Thus, The current will reduce if the voltage applied reduces. And, The transistors in the electronic Dizzy will operate at lower voltages and current. (transistors generally need 0.6 to 1.2 volts minimum to operate correctly - which in this case is a lot less than the 8 to 12 volts it has to operate now) All this being the case, we have still drifted of the point. Which is, will Alpha's car fail the way it is now. - Answer NO ! We are forgetting the main source of concern, wether the coil will burn out if the wrong voltage is applied. Well, only 8 volt coils burn out if 12 volts are applied for too longer periods. 12 volt coils will not burn out if only being driven by a lower 8 volts. The only problem in the later case is that the high voltage side of the 12 volt coil will not be as high if driven by only 8 volts. These voltages are normally around 15,000 Volts. And in this case would only reach aroun 10,000 volts. The effect, the car lacks a little performance and fuel ecconomy. In layman's terms, unless I'm missing some vital facts, your car is fine now Lachlin. Although, I would reconnect the noise supression condensor back up to the coil.

Bloody Hell, The auction has been pulled and there is a "buy now" price of $12000 for the next 12 hours. WTF. Alex (the seller, who is reading this forum) What are you doing? That is twice this car has never completed an ebay auction.

Brian, I have sent you a PM with Alex's response.

Brian, I will have a chat to Alex tomorrow for you. Personally I don't think he would settle outside of and before the Auction ended. I think he wants as much as he can get. He runs an import business though E-Bay and has a container full of stock coming into Australia. The money is needed for this. He was planning to keep the 240K and store it for some years as he is a Datsun/Nissan fan. But needs the money now. He is also selling his 33 GTR for the cause. As for helping with storage and shipping, I'm sure us Sydney siders could arrange something. I now somewhere I could possible place the car and im might have some room at his place. I'm sure something could be done.

On the whole Guys, It's a great example of a coupe. It will last the tests of further time. The only concern I would have if it was mine is that it is too good to mess with. But I guess it's up to the beholder. As Kent says there are more good ones out there and the price is very expensive. Personally, I would drop $3000 to pick this up. But I know Alex would not take it. So I guess it comes down to how much you want it. Hope this helps Guys. PS: I have more pictures that could be posted, but 14 was enough for now. I also have Alex's telephone number if anyone would like to chat to him directly. PM me if you want it. PPS: I wish I had bags of money to throw around and store cars like this one. ;-( PPPS: I do like the colour.

The interior is good but a little shabby around the edges. Don't forget this thing is over 30 and don't we all ;-) It still has the original carpets with the plastic locking mounts. The dash has the signiture crack through the speaker, but otherwise unmarked. I didn't test the Air Conditioning, but Alex says it works. The Drivers seat is the only one with visable damage on the upper section. This would need repair for an Australian Roadworthy, unless you placed seat covers over it. The rear seat top has been repaired with ather nicely stitched covers. I guess the usual cracking has occurred. The only real problem I can see in the interior is the lack of a clutch pedal ;-)

The body has had a rust repair in the lower sill behind the drivers door. There is about a millimeters worth of filler cleaning up the sill. It looks like a good repair that will last. On the inside of the boot panels, the edges have been sprayed with a light tar compound which has protected tha car. There are the usual marks on the drivers door, but these are all. I could not find any others over the whole car. In the window seal around the boot, in the top left corner there is a little start to rust bubbling through the paint. By the looks of things, it is only just starting and would not take much to get it under control. The crome work is excellant, all bumpers are straight and the only marks on the crome are at the front. Across the top ove the bonnet there are three small, small, small dents. Oh, and one on the LHS elbow. This car is straight !

For those that are interested, it's an original paint colour that has had a respay about a year or two ago by the looks of things. The body is in excellant condition, even for a 30 plus year old car. The Window rubbers are great, they are the best you will ever get. The engine has a couple of oil leaks in the usual places, but compression is even and high. There is a new fuel pump fitted, but it still has the original Dizzy. However, this thing starts from cold like a new car. I mean, it's better than most carby cars I have seen in a long while. And yes Jim, the air cleaner was still on backwards - it's now fixed ;-)