kurtwwalters

I'm soaking my fuel pump from my 70 z in a bucket of Berryman's. I didn't think about it at the time, but is this a bad idea? Are there rubber/plastic parts that react badly to carb cleaner? Since I have it all apart - if I decide to or have to replace it, I saw on my Ztherapy video he recommends replacing with a 280zx oil pump. Anyone done this or know about it? Thank you in advance...

Renting an electric impact proved to be fruitless. I gave up on looking for pieces to bolt down to hold the piston down, so I ended up jamming a breaker bar to the ground and cranking the engine with the starter - messed up a tensioner spring in the process. Maybe not the best way to do it, but now I'm ready to clean parts and start re-assembly. Thanks for the help guys!

John - thanks but the head is off so I can't go that route. I don't have a compressor good enough to drive an impact. I don't have access to the ring gear unless just pulling the starter off is enough access. I can try and jam the flywheel with something, but I'll have to take off the starter and take a look first...

I have to replace my timing chain - the head is off the motor. This car is a 70 Z with an automatic, so I can't rely on a clutch to keep the motor from turning over - how do I get the crank bolt off without turning the motor over? Is there a special tool or does someone have a tip? I've searched already but to no avail.... any advice would be appreciated.

I can't get it up to temp since the manifolds are off. I don't know what a "wet" compression test means. I'll have to adjust the valves cold - should I still use .012 exhaust and .010 intake when it's cold? That loud exhaust leak type of noise from the front part of the motor could very well have been coming from the head gasket and not the manifold since they're so close and the compression is low on those front 2 cylinders. I took the gauge back to Autozone already so I guess I'll adjust the valves and go back and get it when I'm done and re-test.

OK, did that. Higher but still bad. 1-70, 2-85, 3-120, 4-135, 5-70, 6-125 Head gasket?

My high school auto mechanics is pretty rusty... I have been working on this 8/70 Z that has been sitting since 87. I've gone through all the basics, hoses, belts, gas tank, all fluids, rebuilt the carbs, etc. The last thing I did was rebuild the carbs. The front 3 carbs were getting no gas to the engine - I adjusted the float and then I heard what sounded like a loud exhaust leak somewhere towards the front of the motor. I ended up taking off the intake and exhaust manifolds and was ready to start putting it back together when I thought - wait what if it wasn't an exhaust leak but something worse? So I got a compression tester from Autozone and here are my results: 1-50, 2-60, 3-105, 4-130, 5-55, 6-110 I didn't take all the plugs out (mistake maybe). This is the 2nd gauge I used - the first one showed no compression at all on 3 of them so I figured it had to be bad. I'm pretty sure the gauge is OK. I have no antifreeze in the oil, had no blue smoke when it was running. Is this still a valid test with both manifolds off? I can't think it would be that big of a deal. I'm thinking if the bottom end of the motor was bad, I'd hear different things or see blue smoke. Should I pull the head off and get into that whole bucket of worms or am I getting paranoid? Any words of wisdom for this amateur mechanic would be appreciated...

I wouldn't recommend it if it wasn't so crunched on the roof, but - cut off the roof and make it a convertible. I've heard folks use a TR7 top. Check on hybridz.org, its been done many times. Good Luck!

Re-reading this whole thread, I noticed I didn't leave the details of #7969: Build date is 8/70, titled as a 71 Nissan 2400 valve cover 4 screw SU's No heat riser or flap on the air cleaner Used to have AC Metal emblems, not plastic Has the original emissions decal for the automatic trans under the hood Ashtray and cigarette lighter in the automatic console Speedometer starts at 20mph Original tools, manual and warranty book with cards from the dealer Tool boxes behind the seats Vents on the hatch The warranty book includes the details like orange exterior/black interior and auto trans.

Vinyl roof is a rare (not my taste) dealer add-on. Interesting.

Time to revive this ancient thread. After letting this car sit for 2 years, I started working on it last October. The last prior registration was 1987. I have done: Refurbished gas tank Changed fuel sensor New upper water coupler, temp sensor, thermostat Had radiator shop Frankenstein 2 bad stock radiators into 1 good one Pulled out all aftermarket gauges Changed oil pressure sensor Replaced all rubber lines, vacuum and fuel Fan belt Starter Battery and battery wires NGK plugs and plug wires Rebuilt dual point distributor (I had one lying about anyway) Brakes: new pads and shoes had rotors and drums turned new master cylinder front brake lines brake fluid flush and bleed Changed oil & filter Air filter Western wheel center lines with holes Refinished steering wheel Horn button Choke knob door lock knobs Carbs - cleaned and replaced float bowl gaskets (these need rebuilt to work right) It runs, but I need to fix the horn and turn signals, have carbs rebuilt and adjusted before it's road ready. It's registered and licensed with a historic plate. I've attached some pics. Now its just too hot to work on a car so it's covered up and I'll hit it again in October when it cools off.

Thanks Arne! Mine reads 8000 as soon as I turn the key. From what I've read there's a diode that can be changed, but another tach for a good price will work for me. I'll get this thing on the road yet - last good tags are from 87. Got it running, doing the brakes now. Once I can get it to go around the block, I'll start worrying about rpm's. Lets see if the Ebay gods smile upon me....

This tach is on Ebay and I'm not sure if it will fit my 8/70 Z. I haven't pulled the dash to be able to compare it, but don't want to let it get away if it's the right tach. This is supposedly out of a 72 (no month provided). I haven't found anything in the archives about tach compatibility other than there is a 3 wire and a 4 wire tach and they aren't compatible. Will this tach work in my car?

Garagedon: I used to have one of those a long time ago. Thanks for the help! kw

I found this emblem in a 74 parts car I just got. I checked the MSA catalog and it's not in there. I googled for awhile and came up blank. Can anybody tell me what car it is from? Thank you in advance....