millerje01

I just installed a 5 speed in my 71'Z (May 71 Build, VIN HLS30-31988) and need to know how to modify the center console to prevent interference with the shift lever.:stupid: What I have read so far say's I need about a half inch for the necessary clearance. What's the best way to do this?

Bruce, What spawned the question was the difficulty in getting the fuel mixture correct. It has always run rich since I moved to Colorado and passing the smog tests has been difficult. I have been working with a very experienced mechanic and he discovered that the needle in the rear carb is smaller than the one in the front. I have no clue about how or why that is the case but I know that is not right. This prompted me to post the question about what were the correct size needles. My original thought was to get a matched set of needles and see where that got me but after thinking about your response, it makes complete sense to also replace the nozzles. What would a set of nozzles and matched needles for my altitude (4500+ ft) cost?

Does anyone know which needles are used in the SU carbs on a stock 1971 240Z (L24) with orig SU's

I have a fibreglass air dam and want to install it on my 71 Z. Unfortunately I don't know the manufacturer of the air dam and don't have any installation instructions. I have attached pictures of the air dam. Any information as to the manufacturer or how to install the air dam is appreciated. My questions are: 1. Is the air dam installed with the left and right corner pieces (where the turn signals are mounted) and the center valence on the car? It looks to me like the turn signal lights are inserted into the air dam and then attached to the corner pieces. 2. Does the air dam go over the top of the center valence. My thought is it goes on top of the valence. I think the valence needs to be there to keep the air dam from flexing or deforming under air pressure at speed. 3. Does the flange above where the turn signals are inserted go behind the headlight buckets? That is between the headlight bucket and the corner piece. See picture 6 & 7 4. There is a horizontal flange at the outer end of the air dam (on both ends) that looks like it gets clamped between the headlight bucket and the corner pieces. Any assistance or recommendations is appreciated

Where can I find a good tutorial on the 4 spd vs. 5 spd transmission for my 71 stock 240Z?

For what it is worth, my 240Z (5/71 build date) has the round knob. Are there any replacements for the round knobs available?

cj71z, I am having the same problem you described. It runs fine at idle but then it bogs down after about 5 to 10 minutes on the road. The engine starts running real rough and makes a sound like its getting too much fuel (flooded). Once the problem occurs the engine will not exceed 2500 to 3000 RPM. When car is allowed to return to idle, it sounds like it is going to die but idle stabilizes at around 900 to 1000 RPM. Car feels like it is getting too much fuel Car fails emissions test with HC and CO2 readings that are twice the allowed limit. This leads me to believe it is running way too rich. Carbs have been leaned out as much as possible and still have it run. What did you conclude was the cause of this problem?

I am not aware of any online. I have a scanned copy from the Clymer manual that I color code using photo editing software. Be happy to provide a copy if you want. Only caution is to check for differences between wiring diagram and your harness. I have found some differences between the wiring diagram and the harness in my '71

Does anyone have any experience with magnaflow mufflers and resonators? It is for a 71 240Z with msa header and stock engine. Any recommendations are appreciated