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I have cleaned two tanks in the last 6 months, the 520 and Patrol. Here is my experience, based on input from jfa.series1 and a local radiator/fuel tank repair shop’s recommendations. 1) Use a Marine Clean (POR) product or similar degreaser (I used the inexpensive one that Wal-Mart sells.) This will cut the fuel varnish buildup. Add some small stones, old nuts & bolts, or chain link to the tank to agitate and break loose the buildup. 2) Collect liquid from draining tank for proper disposal. 3) Rinse with hot water. 4) Repeat Step 1 -3 5) Rinse with hot water. 6) Take to self-serve car wash and use their hose to spray high pressure degreaser then plain water. 7) You should be able to see through the fuel sending unit hole the inside bottom of the tank. If you cannot see clean metal repeat Step 1-5. If you see rust holes, buy a new tank. 8) At this point you can use the POR-15 tank coating. I have read extensively on-line that the coating may break down over several years and cause fuel system problems. (I chose to forgo the tank coating and primed and painted the tank.) 9) After completing the above, test the sending unit. Obtain a new sending unit gasket and reassemble. Keith

Here are a couple of links: http://forums.nicoclub.com/datsun-pickup-trucks.html http://www.olddatsuns.com/620tech.htm#wd Keith

Chase, You understand you have now entered the world of the truly obscure Datsun parts hunt. There are several sites that cater to Datsun "trucks". Also, you will find that some parts interchange with 510 sedan applications. The L16 motor has many of the same parts as the L24, so that should be some confort. Pictures would be helpful so we all can see just what you have gotten yourself into. Keith

Ryan, Aren't you a contributor on the Rocky Mountain Patrol & Offroad forum? In any case, I am certain the memebers here would love to learn more about your vehicles. Keith

Rob, The main mechanical parts that are hard to replace include the carb, distributor, heater core, wiper motor(s), door lock mechanisms, and window regulators. Keith

sblake01, Have you found a source for the rubber plug that is installed in the bumperette to minimize the damage the tailgate would make upon contact? Keith

JLP, Did Les indicate what Patrol parts he does have available? Keith

I believe the Patrol you are looking at was on ebay recently: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=320747259102&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649

Driver & passenger seats missing Tow bar (and cut bumper) would indicate that Patrol was used for dingy towing. Odometer would not miles added in this mode. Scissor jack not original, bottle jack was standard issue Pull out ash tray not in dash Plastic floor cover missing This could be a great project. The key is getting the motor running. Parts for the “P” motor are somewhat interchangeable with the Nissan ”P40” forklift motor. Driver & passenger seats missing Tow bar (and cut bumper) would indicate that Patrol was used for dingy towing. Odometer would not miles added in this mode. Scissor jack not original, bottle jack was standard issue Pull out ash tray not in dash Plastic floor cover missing This could be a great project. The key is getting the motor running. Parts for the “P” motor are somewhat interchangeable with the Nissan ”P40” forklift motor. Here are some photos of my Patrol: http://www.flickr.com/photos/53116286@N07/sets/72157626720344801/ Keith

Can the Patrol move under its own power? Any photos of the dash, front seats and rear? Not original split wheels. Front bumper cut. Front indicator lens are difficult to find. Missing driver's mirror Missing air inlet hose from radiator support to blower motor. I believe the "Datsun" badge on hood should be "Nissan" Hopefully hood is repairable (replacement hoods are scarce). Let me know how the purchase progresses. (If it is in the Dallas, TX area I'd be happy to look at it for you.) Keith

Nissan Patrols were imported from 1960 - 1969, designated as L60 (hardtop) and KL60 (soft top). US parts are scarce. Some parts still available via Australia (where it was designated G60). Buy the best, most complete one you can find. Keith

Chase, Great looking Z. I look forward to seeing it in person at C&C. Keith

Took a leisurely drive to the fuel station. Topped it off & added STA-BIL. On the way home I was stopped by a neighbor who retores old Land Cruisers. He had not seen a 240Z in many years. Fondly recalled his years with early Toyotas and Datsun. Came home and tightened the negative battery cable terminal. Too hot to do anything else.

dave71240z, Jim (jfa.series1) knows all about the Civic blower upgrade. He should be at the Courtesy Nissan show. Do you need the left or right turn signal valance piece? Keith

What is the part number of the clip Nissan is currently offering? Thanks, Keith

I highly recommend: Richard Elite Auto Transport 530-305-2400 eliteautotransport@live.com He transported a Patrol for me from CA to TX and a 300ZX from TX to CA for a friend. Good luck, Keith

I have several sets of jack components that need to be repainted the red/orange color. Has anyone found a close match in an aerosol product or had the color matched at a paint supplier? Thanks, Keith

I am rebuilding a 1966 Datsun PL520 and 1969 Nissan Patrol L60. I need weatherstripping for both projects. Please keep me in mind if you locate any of these parts. Thanks, Keith

The mate for 56205-E4125 (rear) is 56105-E4125 (front). In 2009 I was able to procure a set of four, three in the US and one from Canada for my 240Z. They arrived "dry" and had to be "filled" with the lubricant during assembly.

Has anyone located the OEM part number for this clamp? If not, what other years did Nissan install this clamp? Thanks, Keith

Guy, I do not think making more than 10 in a batch will lower the price. Kip Motors does excellent work, however it is all hand labor, so there are no economies of scale to be achieved with larger batches. Keith

I visited with Kip today. Here is his assessment; Manufacturing strips out of metal would cost the same as plastic (as original). The metal strips could be chemically dipped chromed as opposed to the method used for the plastic which we all know deteriorates. To create the mold and manufacture the strips w/chroming would be $150 pair; minimum 10 pairs. There is no shelf life to the mold, so presumably another batch could be produced at a later date. Based on this cost plus shipping, the interest level at the $90 poll results, and the time to coordinate the project, I think that the project isn't feasible at this time. Keith

ajmcforester, My understanding is that CHESTER & HEROD AUTO CARPET still made an accurately appearing carpet kit. Unfortunately, their website http://autockm.com/ no longer is active. Keith

Dropped of a pair of taillamp strips at Kip Motors for their examination. I whould have a proposal in the next week or so on the cost of reproduction.