zed2

Does anyone have a resource to rebuild a York SWP123 air conditioning compressor from a 240Z? (Since I am refreshing my 240Z, I do not want upgrade the compressor to a newer, more efficient unit.) Thanks, Keith

Here are the photos of the unibody back from the sandblaster. Fortunately, no big surprises.

I recently purchase all the OEM rubber bushings for the 240Z. Here are the part numbers and quantities needed: PART PART NUMBER QTY NEEDED FRONT CNTRL ARM BUSH 54535-E4100 2 FRT TENSION ROD BUSH 54476-21000 4 FRT SWAY BAR END LINK BUSH 56112-W5000 8 FRT SWAY BAR TO FRAME BUSH 54617-21002 2 RACK BUSH/DRIVERS 54445-E4101 1 RACK BUSH/PASS 54444-E4101 1 FRONT STRUT BUMP STOP 54050-E4101 2 FRONT STRUT MOUNT 54320-E4100 2 REAR CONT ARM INNER BUSH(FRT) 55554-E4100 2 REAR CONT ARM INNER BUSH(REAR) 55555-E4100 2 REAR CONR ARM OUTER 55541-E4100 4 REAR CONR ARM OUTER SPINDLE 55540-N3701 2 REAR CONR ARM OUTER SPINDLE NUT 08912-8421A 4 DIFF MOUNT 55415-E4102 1 REAR STRUT BUMP STOP 54050-E4101 2 REAR STRUT MOUNT 54320-E4100 2 MUSTACHE BAR BUSHING 55476-N4300 2 STEERING COLUMN COUPLER 48073-78500 1 Keith

Anyone have any experience with Eastwood Exhaust Paint Aluminum or any other exhaust paint? I was wondering how it holds up after a year or two? Thanks, Keith

Here are the latest photos of the fenders, doors, and hood. In terms of the parts needed, I have sourced NOS original oil filled shocks, OEM rubber bushings (I cannot believe how many individual part numbers there are!), KOITO headlamps, and an original exhaust removed from a 1970 after 15K miles. My fear is that as the car gets put together I will discover that I need some unanticipated part and sourcing the part will delay the reassembly.

Arne, It may be beneficial to add a description of the dimensions of the original stock exhaust system as a reference to these replacement systems. Keith

There are several options; OEM (hydraulic filled): Normal Resistance Firm Resistance Aftermarket (gas filled): Tokico Koni KYB Sachs Monroe Most people buy Tokico or KYB and move on. If you are interested in low cost, then Sachs or Monroe is a good alternative. If you want OEM, then you can be my situation and wait 3-4 months for a boat to arrive from Japan with OEM parts. Keith

Can anyone identify the manufactuer of these strut inserts? The numbers 732613 is stamped above "MADE IN USA" and below the following letters and numbers: P4121-7222. Thanks, Keith

One of the Forum members located an original speaker for me. The cone needs replacing. I have sent the speaker to a local business that specializes in reconing high end drivers. If they can recone the 5 1/8" size (not a common size) and test the magnet for proper strength, I may have found a solution for anyone who wants to stay original. Keith

There is a great shop in Dallas. PM me if you would consider having the restoration work in North Texas. (I am not affiliated with the shop, other than knowing the owner for 13 years and having seen his work on Zs and roadsters.) Keith

Your other option is sleeving: https://www.wirecare.com/land_genpurp.asp Keith

Adam, I know the car had rust treatment; I was referring to rust proofing. Certain components of the 240Z had zinc or cadmium plating as well as the body was primed prior to painting. However, none of these coatings/steps prevented rust, they only delayed the formation of rust. Thanks for allowing me to clarify.

Fortunately, most of the car is in great shape, no evidence of prior collision repair. I do not plan to over-refresh the car. I just want to have confidence that I am not short stepping the process. I am not interested in manufacturing a "2009" 240Z, therefore I am not planning to update the car to contemporary standards. My goal is to have the car ride, sound, operate, and feel as it did when it was first manufactured. I get a lot of comments on suggested updates; poly bushings, wider wheels & tires, performance exhaust, 5 speed transmission, 2.8 liter motor, etc... I know that these enhancements may make the car perform better, however that is not my goal. Unfortunately, I do not have a point of reference on how the car felt when new. We are trying to match the weld points as closely as possible, so the car flexes as it was designed. So all I can do at this point is to use OEM parts and hope for the best.

I did not want to take any chances that rust was hiding, so this is the only way I could be sure.

More photos...

New photos...

Esprist, Does submersing the tail amp assembly in hot water loosen the "no-back washer in the middle of the back of the lens" (Lazeum mentioned above) and allow for the disassembly of the lens from the housing? Keith

New photos...

TomoHawk, What is your source for polyester braid? I would like to see the quality of that product before I commit $130/set for a reproduction. Thanks, Keith

I have been researching OEM shock inserts and have identified the following part numbers: 56105 E4125 normal resistance shock front 56105 E4185 firm resistance shock front 56205 E4125 normal resistance shock rear 56205 E4185 firm resistance shock rear Does anyone know what causes the shock to be either "normal" or "firm"? Is it the viscosity of the oil in the shock? Is the the internal valving of the shock? Also, which shock was installed during original manufacture of the 1970 model year? Thanks, Keith

Looks like a clean install!

Arne, I am glad to know the 5.25" would fit. I found a local company that would recone my original speaker, so I may go that route. Keith

Mike, I saw that post, the Kenwood speaker mentioned was replaced by the KFC-1352S. Both of these speakers are a 5.25". I am looking for a 5.125", the original size. Thanks, Keith

Has anyone found a source for the original size 4 ohm 5 1/8" (5.125") speaker? I want to keep the system as original as possible. Thanks, Keith

Before you go any further, try to locate one of these... Keith