ncolz

wow, that makes one of my project cars 'worth' about $5k. There are better ones out there

No glue!

Congrats on your wonderful find!! I'd like to see more pictures too. Best of luck in your big move too!

just because you can does not mean you should. ;-)

Dave -- Glad to hear! Sounds like time for some beers all the way around.

Welcome to the group! If you ever make it up north (Loveland - Ft Collins) , the NoCo Z club would be happy to meet you. We do a variety of mountain / canyon cruises through the driving season, you're welcome to join along. Cheers, Glen

Check Denver Bumper Works for hole patch & rechrome, excellent work, reasonable prices.

To be clear on the over rider difference... the 73 front over rider bar is narrower than the 69-72 over rider bar. The bumper horns are moved in on the '73 bumper when compared to the '72. You can see that in Bonzi Lon's pictures.

Local pawn shops? Often you can find name-brand, high-quality tools there as well.

The visible rust would be enough to make me think of passing on it. I'd check the next "usual suspects" -- battery tray, dog legs, rocker panels, inner front fenders, rear fender wells, hatch..... Pictures would help the assessment a lot!

Hi Craig - Do a search for "headlight switch". I believe you'll find a lot of good info. Typically, it's the switch (on the steering column) or bad grounds. The manual is your friend www.xenons30.com

Awww... you give up too easily http://www.ppe.com/11cat/0222.pdf

I've had decent luck by putting vice grips over the flare wrench -- keeps the flare wrench from spreading and doesn't tear up the nut on the brake line. Squirt them down with PB-Blaster or the home-brew 50-50 acetone & Automatic Transmission Fluid first. A few choice words later, and you should be good to go.

Chrome carriage bolts from your local Ace hardware would work. Another option would be to send to Denver Bumper Works and have them weld the holes and rechrome the bumpers. I had mine done that way, as have a few others in the forums and they do incredible work. Note -- I am only a happy customer of Denver Bumper Works and have no financial relationship with them (despite wishing I did )

240Z evaporator tanks are plastic. I wonder if JB Weld or other epoxy would make the repairs if that is your issue.. Good luck!

You must be thinking OLD diesel technology. My Jetta TDI gives no problems in cold. Technology has changed from the old-school Mercedes diesels my Dad had when I was a kid. Hell, my John Deere tractor fires right up on cold mornings too. Just hit the glow plugs a couple of times and keep the battery strong, no issues.

Most self-etch primers I've seen suggest not to spray on fill - so you can mask those areas off and hit the bare metal with the etch. Let that dry, then hit it with the high build -- work that down to what you want, then either epoxy or just paint on top of it. Make sue you use compatible products (notice a theme here? ) I just buy all my products from the same supplier and let them know what I'm doing. Sure makes that part of the job much easier.

OK, I'll take a shot here and suggest what I would do with your car...... First - it would be ideal to take the whole car down to metal and go from there. Sounds like you don't want to do that, I understand. So, the 'next best' from my perspective, is to take out as much filler as possible, then prime all the bare metal with etching primer. Add the fill back in to smooth, then to the high build and work that to get it straight to your satisfaction. I like to know all the body work done on my projects. If the filler was from someone else, I prefer to take it out and see what I have underneath. Yeah, I know that's like opening up Pandora's Box at times - but at least I know what I'm working with then. I also know that all the materials I use are compatible. It really sucks to do nice body work only to have the paint bubble due to some reaction with incompatible stages. There you have it.... advice guaranteed to be worth what you paid for it.

Does she have a sister?

Hey guys - how about posted some suggested prices for those of us who are thinking about wheels??

Interesting pictures - - he claims it's a turbo, yet no oil line on the filter side to feed the turbo. Run away!

Very cool! Sure would love to be on your Christmas list!

Sounds like you have the stock distributor - have you checked the ignition dwell?

Set a deadline? Yeah, good idea, psdenno. Maybe I should consider that on my 260, the twin 240z's, the Zx Spyder (soon to be converted to a turbo)..............

I think I have a case of too many Z's ...... not that I'd call that a problem. One of my '70s is rivited, the one I checked. The other 70, the 71, and the 74 240 are all screwed.