ZCurves

Don't forget the belt tensioner bearings. Inspect cam-oiler anyway.

While I really like look of a smooth back side, I would be extremely concerned about taking a hit in the Arse. Seriously, you have to think about all of the time, money and effort put into your Z and then give it no protection!?! - One hit and you are done! Seems like there could be a compromise somewhere.

Unfortunately, No. '77 and '78 are very specific.

Bingo!!

Other than a pants down spankin or a swift kick in the nutz, I believe that you will be sufficiently punished when you have the block re-sleeved at a machine shop and go through the effort putting it all back together. Back in the early 90's, I backed into my freshly painted 81 ZX Turbo and crushed the rear quarter panel. $1000 to repair + free kick in the sack. Most recently, I backed my Expedition into the iron gate across my driveway. $3500 for the Expedition, $1500 for the gate, Kick in the sack for free;)

That is good information, now if I only had a charging machine....

Assuming that the front-end is nice and tight, that the bearings and struts are good. I would take the wheels to a different tire shop and inspect both the tire and wheel for being wonky or egg shaped. From what you have described, it sounds like a balancing issue, so you have to look closely at wonky tires AND the wheels. Over time, old wheels tend to become egg shaped or develop a lateral pitch - this is where I think your problem is.... With some tires, tire shops will try to compensate for bad balance by throwing a bunch of weights on the rim or shifting the tire around on the rim to get better geometry and therefore a better balance. The problem is that this is a temporary solution on a cheap or bad tire/wonky rim setup. A few thousand miles later you'll be right back where you started.

Wade is right, follow those hints to save time...Don't forget to "sniff" or use the UV (black) light under the dash/in the center vent. Fingers crossed that it is not the front seal on the compressor - I hate that!!

SBlake01, I agree that 400lbs Highside would be crazy. When I got my certification, we were taught that a 10:1 Compression Ratio is a good "rule of thumb" - but then the FSM contradicts that with the 40lbs Lowside instruction. The lower the CR, the more efficient a compressor will be. The '78 FSM provides an excellent chart of ratios on AC-56 - none are exact 10:1 CR's. Looking at my notes for my Z, I was actually running 235/35 or 7:1.

I think we can all relate to this guy's longing for his car.... http://autos.aol.com/article/man-finds-his-stolen-austin-healy-forty-years-later/

Racebird - since the A/C is not functioning, get yourself a replacement set of Shrader Valve's, evacuate the system and install them. Check the pressure switch on the Drier and make sure that it is functioning. With the gauges attached and both sides open, repeat your previous evac to -30 kPa and let it sit for 10 mins. Evac again and watch the needle for 30 mins to an hour. Recharge to 10:1 ratio - usually 2 1/2 cans. If the gauges are reading crazy high on the HIGH (red) side like over 250, then you have a blockage in the system (e.g. bad drier or expansion valve). Conversely, the LOW side (Blue/Suction) should be pulling hard (watch the low side of the gauge drop). If not - then again there is a blockage somewhere. If you get a charge, use soapy water to check the Shrader Valve's, pressure switch and connections for leaks (bubbles).

I second what Grantf says. If you have room, I would keep it until you found a taker - then they could get a precise cut for their purposes - or if they take the whole car-cass;) away, then it is less work for you. I would also consider the Roof as a patch panel as well, so keep this in mind when doing any cutting.

Sounds simple, but have you tried BAP-GEON, ROCK AUTO, ADVANCEAUTO? You might get lucky.

Thanks for the info!

I want one of those! Can you hook me up? PM me!

Sarah, your idea is great and I am tempted to do this myself. The only thing I would be concerned about is the Non-Condensibles that come when evacuating an AC system. That is what those fancy evac systems are all about. I wonder if you could make a filter??

Mmmmm - velvet diamond tuck interior, Eddie Munster might be looking out for a Z.

Take one of the High Side adapters and cut or grind off 3 or so millimeters from the base so that it will be able to seat. 'Dry fit' in a vise first to make sure that the adapter is engaging the original fitting and then install the adapter with JB Weld on the threads. Check again to make sure the adapter is engaging the original. After the JB Weld has cured, install back on the compressor using the brass lug to tighten. You should be able to attach the gauges at this point.

This should be made a 'Sticky'.

Yep, In fact the people who did the work had clear coated them prior to shipping to me. Oh well Live and Learn...

It does, but you can 'tame' that with the Clear Matte spray. It looks great.

Answers to your questions: Can these items be fixed? Yes As anyone had similar issues? Yes, I did. Is there a plate inside the door that the screws actually go into or is it just the door itself? Yes, there was on mine. Seriously - Those are my answers.. If the glass had been good on mine, I would have painted and reused them. I ended up going with a new OEM drivers side mirror, I do miss the passenger side though. If I were going to do it again, I would purchase the Racing Style mirrors from MSA (http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/EM/50-1153) and have them painted to match the body color. Since you are having the paintwork done soon, you should look at several different styles until one flips your wig. Have any existing holes in your doors brazed shut, then have some threaded lugs welded to accept your new mirror. Once the paint is done you'll have a solid mount for your new mirrors.

Hey, I had this done to my tail light bezels and it looked great for about three months. Then the "Chrome" began to get white and gray spots on it and eventually started looking like CRAP. Mind you that the car was stored inside a garage and had never been wet or exposed to any cleaners/solvents. I had to replace the bezels from my parts cache - repainted with "Chrome" Rustoleum. All I can say is STAY AWAY from this as a solution.

Go for pink Ben.

Frank, I really never even considered it but now I am curious... Did you get the mounts(Interior Door) off of the Sentra? Can you post pics? Where are you located?, perhaps I could get with BenZ and take a look first hand.