ZCurves

Hello, I need some help from 'Down Under'. I need help getting my hands on some small electrical connectors from a company in Sydney, Australia. Problem is that they will not ship to America. Here is what I am trying to do. I want to use these 8mm Fusible Link connectors to make a "Fused Link" with so I can use modern blade fuses on my '78 280z (This is part of my Fusible Link solution which I will post about later...). Anyway, I cannot find the 8mm connectors very easily (AT ALL) here in the US, but I did find them at Larrikin Products in Sydney. Here is the link...http://www.larpro.com.au/larpro/product/1695. So if there is a willing Zed-Head in Australia that can accept a small parcel and then forward it to me here in the US, I will be very grateful. I will of course pay for everything. Please PM me if you can help.... thanks.

Have you considered replacing the AFM and trying to pass your smog test? I would hate for you to waste time and $$$.

I suppose you could if you wanted. The clear is just to tame the Dupli-color from being too glossy.

I know where you live...

In general, it is a real good idea to service the fuse box and fusible link connections. Many ZCar owners have never touched the fuse box other than to replace a fuse or two, so after thirty-plus years it is likely there is some grime that could prevent a good connection. This simple service will eliminate a whole hassle of electrical issues caused by a poor circuit at the fuse box/fusible link...your lights will be brighter and will certainly work better. For the fuse box, Disconnect the battery, if you cannot remember when you changed the fuses - throw them all away. Next using some medium sandpaper and a 1/4" dowel, clean the surface of the contacts in the fuse box. Get a small pair of pin-nose pliers and tighten the gap where the fuse rests and then flush with contact cleaner. Finish up by replacing the fuses with new ones that you have lightly coated with dielectric grease.

This is funny. I am 6' 3" and usually can fit with plenty of leg room - that is until I refurbed my seats with the MSA Seat Foams and Leather Covers. Now I am cutting some of the foam away to get back to the original fit. My brother laughs at me being stuffed in - says I look like "Rat Fink" driving a Z.

OK Heath, back to the original topic... I have a '78 and I would first encourage you to acquire the following: Factory Service Manual (FSM) Fuel Injection Bible Color Wiring Diagram from Prospero's Garage Using a Multimeter with the FSM and the Color Wiring Diagram will enable you to accurately trace the circuit and see where it is faulty, cleaning contacts as you go. Replace both Flasher Relay's under the dash too. Go HERE for my '78 FSM (PM me if the link is bad). Go HERE for the Fuel Injection Bible. Go HERE for Prospero's Garage.

For the female connectors, use a pipe cleaner or one of those little bristly toothbrushes and Contact Cleaner. For the male blade-type connections, use a dental tool to scrape large corrosion off then use sandpaper with the dental tool to get it super clean. Flush with Contact Cleaner. When you are done ALWAYS coat with some Dielectric Grease to prevent future corrosion. BTW.. DO NOT use the Contact Cleaner near paint or plastic - No Bueno.

of course...

Great Catch!

Are you talking whole car or rear taillight finisher? If it is the rear finisher, here is what I used. I believe it to be a close match to OEM... Dupli-Color High Performance Wheel Coating – HWP102 Rust-Oleum Painter’s Touch Multi-Purpose Paint – 1902 Matte Clear http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/s...ll=1#post90742 You can find the Duplicolor at NAPA, Rust-Oleum at Home Depot or Lowes.

If the first pic is your existing fender, I would just patch it with some metal that is closer in gauge to the original material and not worry about the tabco panel. Now if the rust was more severe, then I would be looking at the patch panel or the other fender. The time involved might be less if you are not doing a lot of body work like is on the 'other' fender. Regardless of which way you end up going, make sure to get a good seal on the backside of the fender. I would bead-blast the backside of the fender, use POR-15 and then undercoat it - especially between the lower support and fender skin (where your current rust is and where the cowl drains down).

I believe that is the ticket! Thank you very much!

Ok, So I have been working on a solution to replace fusible links with blade type fuses, what I am looking for are female spade connectors that are the correct width as the original fusible links - these guys are a bit wider than what is readily available. If anyone knows where I can source these, I would appreciate a note. It really is a simple solution that allows you to keep everything looking stock and not hack up your harness. When I get these all done, I'll post pics.

It is just sooo bad on so many levels....I am going to have bad dreams for sure..

The rear-view mirror is the only thing you should be looking back in. I believe the picture of the two of you should be labeled "Future".

Before you start taking things apart, you should first diagnose what is wrong. Try this: Check all of your Fuses. With the engine off, connect a wire to the wire on the compressor, next touch it to the POS side of your battery. It should engage, you will hear it. Key on On position, test the Pressure Switch by jumping the leads on the harness with a wire - If the compressor clutch is getting a signal, then it will click as it engages. Using a wiring diagram (available on this forum or at Prospero's Garage) test the A/C relay located under the black cover next to the battery. You can also test the Fan Switch in the dash the same way. Once the compressor is engaged, you can then see if it is cooling -and if not, come back and re-read Wade's post or search mine on the topic. We'll get you fixed up.

Frank I think that we're ok. Do you have any of your new one? Remember to save as close to 800x600 as possible. You can check the picture size settings on your camera. I could always be talked into drinking a beer and snapping a few photos:beer:

I believe that you will be fine with the P4's. I am running Yokohama Avid-TRZ. Back in the day, I ran Pirelli P77's. It seemed like I could not wear them out. I do recall a bit of a stiff ride though - but it is a Z for petes sake. I loved those tires.

Hello, Well things are shaping up real nice, But I need some Green, Orange and Brown(Rust) Z's. The photos are best when they are 800x600 or close. This project is really turning out to be pretty cool - can't wait to share with you.

Bada Bing, that's the ticket. Flushed the Ads right out!

Here is a link to what I did for my Z, the results were fantastic and it looks like a factory finish. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?13593-Color-for-grill-rear-tail-light-panel&p=90742&viewfull=1#post90742

Use Paint.net. It is free and will help you to resize, etc.

Sweet! Thanks. PM on the way..

Very Nice! I may have to get some hi-res from you....