ZCurves

What makes your tank 'shot'?? Is it leaking, full of rust, what?? If it is full of rust and other crap, it might just need to be cleaned out and possibly coated. You can take to a local Radiator shop to get it boiled, coated and inspected if need be. Tell us more...

In addition to Capt Obvious' reply, I poured a bottle of 'Engine Honey' on the Cam right before the first start. Also make sure that the Dizzy is positioned correctly so that you are not 180 off. Be easy on her for first 500 mi and then dump oil and filter for what ever you prefer. I know there are several threads on the different oils we all use (I am an Royal Purple guy myself).

I would save the right fender for the future. Sounds weird, but if fenders become hard to find, you will have this one that a good body-man could repair and reuse. From the pics it looks like the rest is finished. Be sure to save your fasteners.

Jaywis, Make sure to keep taking (and posting) lots of pics - not only because I am a 'Z-Voyeur' , but because it is fun to chronicle everything that you do as you restore. The fact that your Z is has a low VIN is great! Think of the future when you have it finished - Pictures, Receipts and a Journal will make the low VIN that much sweeter! Good Luck!

You are the MAN, man.

Are you sure that the coupe and 2+2 hatches are different? I have a couple of louvers from coupes that I would like to eventually put on my Z. I was just curious.

Pictures are worth a thousand posts.

I am impressed with it and feel that it gets good reception within the city, but I have not had a chance to take the Z very too far from Houston as it is fresh on the road and I have more engine tuning to do. I ran the wiring down the passengers A-Pillar and under the dash finisher. I installed the antenna itself at the top of the windshield above the rear view mirror with a little silicone since the double sided tape is useless. The Antenna is amplified via a 12 volt line that you hook to the power antenna lead from the head unit or any switched lead. Many modern cars utilize a small of hidden amplified antenna including the Altima, Maxima and quite a few Honda's. I feel it is a good alternative and the price is right. As far as shaving your antenna mount, that is up to you. Since my Z was being repainted, I took the opportunity to make the hole go away.

I would try to do the mast, It can be a pain though. I got so sick of having mine broken off by shee-it-heads over the years, I just had the painter 'shave' the opening and went with an Amp'ed internal one. Here is a link to the mast on eBay: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Power-ANTENNA-Mast-1975-thru-1978-Datsun-280z-/350554888438?_trksid=p4340.m185&_trkparms=algo%3DSIC.NPJS%26its%3DI%26itu%3DUA%26otn%3D5%26pmod%3D170795128473%26ps%3D63%26clkid%3D7507582295651352619 Here is one like I used instead: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Hidden-ANTENNA-Harley-Ultra-Classic-FLHT-FLTR-FLHX-/190662859285?_trksid=p4340.m444&_trkparms=algo%3DCRX%26its%3DC%252BS%26itu%3DSI%252BUA%252BLM%26otn%3D5%26ps%3D63%26clkid%3D7507582266123452429

I am amazed by this forum and how proper information helps get our Z's repaired - quickly and correctly. For instance - Wiring Diagrams -If I were to have a complaint of the FSM, it would be the lousy wiring diagram section. I suppose that they did not anticipate the future with all of us here lovingly working on our Z's. None the less, it is a weak point in the documentation which confuses a lot of people. I wanted to mention a tool that I bought a while back on eBay from Prospero's Garage. These diagrams are laminated and in full color, so if you get it greasy -just wipe it off. I used it when I was re-assembling my '78Z and I was impressed at the accuracy and how much help it was (and continues to be). You can get one here: http://www.colorwiringdiagrams.com/datsun.htm for ~$20. No, I am not affiliated with these folks, I just wanted to share a great tool with a fair price.

Paul - I have a '78 and purchased a Color Wire Diagram from Prosperos Garage, which has been real help when I re-assembled my Z - it is very accurate. You can get one here: http://www.colorwiringdiagrams.com/datsun.htm I read that you had an FSM - good. Here is link to a PDF version that I have cleaned up : http://www.mediafire.com/file/y2x2e66oh939z9t/1978%20280z%28S30%29.pdf It would be a great idea for you to also put your hands on the Fuel Injection Bible. You can search this forum for a PDF copy to download. I wish that I had known about Bob's Speedometer Shop when I was going through my gauges! I believe they work really well, just have to send my clock out for a redo. Good luck, have fun and post pics!

Great! Thanks for the drawing! I have a spare rack that I may attempt this on.

Could you please link to the correct write-up for the rest of us lurking out here? Thanks.

I watched this Youtube video of this guy driving his GT Cobra on the track when there is a mechanical failure of some kind at 130 MPH (I am thinking Tie-Rod/Control Arm). The video is from a dash camera - watch the seat belts and roll bar save his hide. Now be careful out there my ZedBretheren.

EScanlon - You get the Awesome award for best the "Two for One" post! I am impressed that you pulled a 10 year old post out of your hat like that!

What a fantastic idea! You could even paint the cotter black. Nice.

Unfortunately, I am getting ready to do this same thing myself.

Go here: http://zhome.com/History/BlackP.htm to learn more. It is a write up from a couple of years ago by Bryon D. Hill, Carl Beck and Myself. Look for paint code 638 on the radiator support. Note: Black Pearl paint is a metal fleck paint, not a 'solid'. What made a Z a "Black Pearl" was the 1978 model year and the entire accessory package, most notably the pinstripes and louver. It is possible that your car is painted with 638 Black Pearl Metallic Paint, but did not have the other features added.

Very interesting. I rebuilt my Distributor a couple of years ago and it has always had a little 'hop' on the tach. The car runs OK, it just isn't as smooth as it should be, I am going to replace it with a "professional" rebuilt unit in the coming days. I wonder what the waveform of my own bench job distributor would look like? Hmmmm.

I will look in my parts hoard on Saturday. Sorry, I just cannot get there until then.

I do not believe they were intended to be reused. I have hunted many a pin as you have described and only missed a few. Back in the day, I got good enough to judge how far to push the pin in so it wouldn't drop out. I think it would be slick to have a little tool that on one end was long enough to push the pin in just so - then on the other end had a claw (like a hammer) to remove the rivet without damaging it. Seriously though, the rivets are relatively cheap and you should not have to disturb them very often - just get youself a couple of bags of spares off eBay. I like your idea of the nail style clips, I use a GM style from DORMAN for the rear finishers that hold the tail lamps in.

Chris, This is very interesting. So if you replaced Springs, Seals etc. Would you list sources and part numbers? What grease did you use? Pictures are always nice. Thanks for the information...

Is the coating bubbling or coming off of the surface - or did you just miss some spots? If you missed some spots, couldn't you just get some additional POR and then dump that in and work it into place?? If this is not going to work, then I would find a radiator shop and have it soaked. POR is not impervious to being removed, it is pretty tuff stuff - but there are solvents that will remove it and I am sure that a radiator shop will have what it takes.

Zedyone, I believe that Ben (BensZ) has found a shop that does some real fine work too. Unfortunately Deerbrook is selling to new owners.

Will, Congratulations! It says a lot to get a man's daughter and now his Z! Holy Crap, you must be Superman!! Travel'n Man posted your to-do list. I am sorry to tell you that you have been bitten by the Z bug - Try and Resist You Cannot (Yoda).