ZCurves
Member
-
Joined
-
Last visited
Everything posted by ZCurves
-
I considered the Sharpie too, but I had much better results with a Silver Paint Pen that I bought at a hobby shop/crafts store. As for the Door Panels, if you mask off the area to be painted you can run the paint pen down each strip in single stroke. Let it dry between coats. The Silver Paint Pen is far superior in coverage and durability. -
Godzilla would like to know more about this 303 Protectant. Share more info...
-
It is hard to predict how the material on an old dash will react to any kind of cleaner. I would suggest that you stay away from anything that has solvents in it. Solvents will cause the plastic to soften and then as they evaporate the plastic starts to stiffen again and that is when the cracks start. Windex, 409 and the like have ammonia which might be ok but I think that I would use some Dawn and a wet terrycloth towel. When the dash is dry, use some Lexol. Lexol is a gentle cleaner and leaves an emollient behind and it will not 'gas out' and get on the windshield. see what others have to say first. I'll keep my fingers crossed for your dash! I have to also say that I have a cover that I place over the dash and steering wheel when I am not driving. I can post a pic if anyone would like.
-
AR280z: Just so you'll have it - Follow this link and you can download my FSM for the 78 Z. http://www.mediafire.com/?y2x2e66oh939z9t
-
Do you have the Fuel Injection Bible? You can download it under members\downloads on this forum. What year is your Z? Have you checked all of the fusible links? You have to be careful not to replace too much all at once, especially when debugging the EFI because you could compound your problems. Use the Fuel Injection Bible to help you inspect each component at a time, specifically there is a section where you check the continuity of the wiring harness between the ECU and a given component. Do you have an FSM? This will help you in a much more general way -make sure that you have one for reference.
-
I used this closed-cell material that I purchased from Lowes. Basically it is the material that you would put under a exterior door threshold in your house. It comes in a 6" X 20" roll, glues real well and is cheap. If you do not have a Lowes near you, I am pretty sure you can find it at any home improvement store.
-
dcruz - adding to what sblake has already mentioned... I believe that you have a blockage at the Drier or at the Expansion Valve. This is why you have 15 Low and pegged out High. The ratio should be 10:1 (H:L), so you should be looking at 150:15, 200:20, etc. If the Pressure Sensor is broken off or non-functioning, then the compressor would not engage and you would have nothing. Follow sblakes advice and replace the Drier with a NEW one. Never reuse a Drier or use one that has been exposed to the atmosphere for an extended period of time because they absorb moisture and loose their effectiveness. Put a real hard vacuum (-30hg) on the system for like a hour. When you order a Drier, make sure to get a new Pressure Switch, -together these should not be over $65. Be prepared to 'short' the connector for the Pressure Switch until you get the first can of R12 into the system. This should be 'Liquid' or upside down on the tap, the remaining should be gas or right side up on the tap. Be sure to watch your ratios! Good luck.
-
Damn Sarah! You're scaring me! -I mean you said '@$#%ing'. Godzilla almost dropped his maracas!! -Seriously, do you have the old part #'s. I have found that a lot of fuel system parts also have a Mercedes (Bosch) match.
-
It sounds to me like you have a leaky valve stem seal. Give it a little time and see if it 'seats'. Don't be hammering your engine, let it break it!! If it is smoking all the time, that is more likely a ring issue, smoking on deceleration is a valve thang.
-
Very Nice. Now those are what I call some ZCurves;)
-
Oh my goodness! A crushed Z in a junkyard would look better that a Citroen 3cv!! What were the French thinking!
-
IS THAT A SPILL on the floor by the compressor! For Shame!!
-
No, you are absolutely fine. All the EGR does is allow small amounts of exhaust gas to be remixed and re-burned, thus improving the quality of the emissions. Just ask him to boil it out and weld it up - ignore the rest of his comments.
-
You could also use the Soapy Water test with compressed air - See where it foams. Since you have already 'deleted' your EGR crap, I would think that you should clean out the funk (sand), weld up everything -especially that giant hole and grind smooth. You could also smooth out some of the intake passages to the head and grind out the Throttle Body port to 60mm for use with a Big Throat or 240sx TB!!
-
What rad shop did you use???
-
First you should have really studied the differences for the rim and tire sizes with the geometry of the car prior to ordering. There is some 'wiggle' room for the tire and wheel sizes and you could use spacers if you needed to. What would concern me is the offset and the differences in steering. I would search the forum for what others have done. Is there any chance that the tire shop would let you do a mock up to make sure you have plenty of clearance?
-
Well, I believe that you would get the most durable job done by powdercoating. POR is a fine product, but powdercoating, when done correctly, is applied more evenly to a surface that is devoid of oil and rust. It is then baked on at 400° which gives it a pretty tough surface. Understand that all coatings can potentially be chipped off by rocks or other debris -but that risk would be the same no matter what you choose. Go with Chassis Black and you will get a smooth, extraordinarily durable finish that will look OEM. I see you are in Wis. so I still strongly suggest POR for the Pan, Fender Wells, Frame Rails. Use the Eastwood Heavy Duty Rust Inhibitor for all internal 'Blind' cavities (e.g. inside Frame Rails, Upper frame under the fenders, Rocker Panels and above the Wheel Wells.). Good luck with your project - be sure to post pics for us to see;)
-
-
I agree with EScanlon & xs10shl, that is what I have done.
-
Ditto
-
Yes it is and you know where to get one. Free.
-
It looks outstanding!
-
Congratulations getting the Z running. Since you claim to be a noob, I would suggest that when you are looking for help that you always place the model and year of your Z in the message or you could put it in the signature line. Now for your answer, you can get a radiator shipped to you for ~$150 from any number of places. You could try 1800Radiators or Radiator.com. You could go for an Aluminum 4 Row for a little more $$. I am absolutely certain that you could find a good radiator shop to rework your existing one in SB County. Are you close to Orange? You can get an aluminum one from MSA. Here is a link: http://www.thezstore.com/store/merchant.mvc? Since you said that you would not be restoring this Z, I would go for the local Rad Shop approach.
-
Go for Two Stage #306, but have the painter topcoat it with pearl with additional flake. You might also consider a 'Ghost' stripe or flames that are not immediately apparent 'till the sun hits it just right. From my experience, modern paint chemistry is far more superior to what was originally used by Nissan, so what ever you end up with, it will have depth that will knock you out.
-
That's what I am talking about. Nice, Very Nice.