ZCurves

Wow! You have a lot on your plate to complete before the end of the week. I would suggest that you get it mechanically sound for now and then guide your brother for the rest of it. As for the A/C, I will certainly help you to replicate what I have done. Go ahead and do the heater stuff for now since those parts will be easier to get (except the Water **** - there is a repair kit from NAPA). I got my parts from all over the place and I have posted on this pretty thoroughly so maybe I could just get a concise list together... You can PM me anytime and I'll get you started. Getting the parts is the worst part, but they ARE available.

CAUTION! When you re-install the wiper assy, make sure that you first run them W/O the arms installed. Put the nuts on and mark them with a small dot. Run a cycle and watch to make sure the dot moves clockwise rather than counter clockwise. This step will help save your cowl paint!

I was replacing some wonky fuel system parts while I was trying to find out why my NOS fuel pump is howling like it's got a belly-ache. I decided to replace the Fuel Damper. Having already flushed the tank, I installed a filter between the fuel tank and the pump (as I had read in the hundreds of earlier posts) as well as the Pressure Regulator -but alas the pump is groaning like its had too many Jalapenos! Finding a Fuel Damper was not as easy as I thought, so I remembered that these were Bosch L-Jetronic systems and that there were many cars that used L-Jetronic. What I found was a Mercedes part (W0133-1615150) here: http://www.importeccatalog.com/item.wws?mfr=BOSCH&sku=W0133-1615150&source=GOOGLEBASE. I thought that I would pass the number along. It is Bosch (OEM), it matches the picture in the FSM and it was $65! It may not solve the noise, but it was the cheapest first step.

I did this to my 78, I took a section from a Ford similar to what Zed Head posted. I braised it into the fuel rail when I was rebuilding the engine. I have the 3M EFI kit that attaches directly to the port for future cleaning. I can post a pic if anyone would like.

When the O-Rings in the rack fail, then you will have pressure bleed into the bellows. What you need is to find a rebuilt steering rack. You could also rebuild it, but I don't recommend it.

I am curious who you were using in Texas?? It is always good to have another contact.

Guilty as charged. So I guess I'll buy the first round. When do you want to meet -I am game. PM me with your cell phone. BTW, I Finally got my Z back on the road (and inspected) today. It was 111° today in Spring! Lot of fun.

If you have to, you can take the bracket loose under the dash, it's like two or three screws.

Julio, You could probably do a real nice leather wrap IF the steering wheel grip is nice and firm. The steering wheel that I am doing in wood was suffering from the heat down here in Tx - it looked like a melted candle! I stripped off the grip down to the steel core and had it powder-coated chassis black. Now I am working on the oak blanks.

I am in. I do not see any reason that it should cost big $$$, unless you wanted to sell Shirts / Decals or something. I will help you plan or whatever. I think we should at least plan a get together for a beer and some brain storming. Let me know.

You could always refer to the BODY section of the FSM and check the geometry of your car. But I have to agree with 5thhorsemann, just leave it alone.

I am in the process of building a jig to make a wooden steering wheel on the S30 base frame. I am using the following links as my guide. When I am done, I should be able to re-create these for others if there is any interest. http://www.secondchancegarage.com/public/93.cfm http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/index.htm?id=1257704 http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/accessories/at119a.htm#top https://secure.drivers.lexus.com/lexusdrivers/magazine/articles/Vehicle-Insider/Steering-Wheel

That's the stuff, I am send you a PM.

Can you save the cable? I need to ground my block to the k member bolt. I think that I will feed it through the rad support.....:stupid: Ha!, good one. Can't wait for more.

Thanks a bunch! I think that will help. Since I have installed a new stereo, some of those wires have become orphaned. I just need to connect the all important ashtray light and I am done.

dcruz, just use sblakes comments in #7 as a guideline and not worry about opening the high side on your gauge. Generally, there is a 10:1 ratio (High:Low) - so stay in that range and you'll be fine. TIP: When you are checking/adding refrigerant in extreme ambient temps (like here in Texas), get a garden hose and wash down the Condenser with engine the running. This will dramatically lower the 'Head' pressure or Discharge pressure allowing for better suction. Just watch the pressure and don't over do it!

Mine is a 78 280z, I am always interested in interior plastics. Specifically the under dash stuff and the finishers on the floor near the firewall. Let me know what you stumble across.

What would be cool is if the various Z clubs in Texas had road trips that all converged in the same place. Like an informal weekend rally of some sort. Hmmm now I am pondering.....

I am looking for the Interior Plastic Finisher that is on the passenger floorboard and secures with screws into the firewall. Any help would be appreciated.

I am still looking for your Scuff Plates. I am going to my warehouse this Friday - keep fingers crossed.

Ok, so my console has been out for a while while I worked over the carpet and installed a new stereo. So, I have everything ready to go back in and I noticed these single wires with bullet connectors and I cannot remember where some of them go. Here is what I've got: A couple of the wires are solid black. There is a black with a red stripe. There is a Green with yellow stripe. What I do know is that the Green/Yellow stripe wire is for the Ashtray and is probably paired with one of the black wires for a ground. I've got nothing for the other black wire and the black with red stripe wire. I have looked over the wiring until my eyes have crossed. Any clues would be appreciated.

I have used ATF for 25 years. However, I know that others on this list have used Antifreeze or Marvel Mystery Oil. Essentially you want something with a thin viscosity that will aid in heat dissipation from the strut as well as prevent corrosion in the tube. Make sure you fill the tube with the cartridge inserted - otherwise you'll get a mess!

I noticed the post about Oven Cleaner. I used this stuff too - works like a champ, but watch out for the overspray and avoid getting it on Aluminum. It will mess up the finish - which is okay if you are going to polish it anyway.

I second that!! Twenty + years ago I had a girlfriend with her own Z! She's turned into my wife, and she still loves Z's. It was destiny! It is very nice to have a spouse who "understands" what having a Z means!

I'll look for you.