ZCurves

Old jellied coolant. I would be sure to flush!! Don't forget the Heater Core and get a new Thermostat.

Has anyone considered making a replacement part? I am thinking fiberglass replacements. It would be nice to have a vendor start making these.

Well, we need more information. What year/model is your Z? Do you have any pictures you can upload? Do you want to restore it back to original spec? Without knowing anything more info. I would say that you could find a couple of different Metric bolts and try by hand to see which size is the tightest fit. I would then go with a Brass plug and Teflon tape to seal the port. The Brass is a softer metal and would yield to the block. With that said, I would really, REALLY encourage you to go back to stock and set it up original.

Have you looked at the Met Green on the new Camaros? I think that would be pretty slick.

If you can locate a pair that are in decent shape (I may have some), I have found that you can use spray paint stripper and the original vinyl covering will pop off within minutes. I sanded the rust, treated with Naval Jelly and then finished them with Truck Bed Liner spray. Three good coats and a couple of days dry-time to get them nice and hard - they look fantastic!.

Sarah, I have a couple of steering wheels, one I covered with leather years ago, the other is prepped for a custom wooden redo. On the leather one, I covered the entire wheel in painters masking tape and then used a razor blade cut it off to create a pattern. I then applied the tape to some nice black leather, cut it out and then started sewing -tough on the hands, but the job turned out pretty well. For the wooden wheel, I have removed the old foam and had it powder coated Chassis Black, I am in the process of creating the template so that I can use a router and make a clean, smooth circle. There are a couple of places on the internet where guys have already done this work,I am just copying their steps. I plan to document everything and post it when I am done. If it turns out well, maybe I can do it for others too.

FYI... I was checking out some goodies at DealCatcher.com and saw this listing for Advance Auto Parts and felt I needed to pass it along to my fellow Zed-Heads. They have the following coupon codes below - but there is another. If you use JL15 and keep the Subtotal at $100, then you get off and then they will email you a $50 coupon for use in September. There is also free shipping on orders over $75. I picked up a rebuilt Dizzy for $96, threw in some Caliper Lube to get to $100. After I get the $50 coupon, I'll essentially net a $50 rebuilt dizzy, with a lifetime warranty + Free Shipping to my door. $20 off orders of $50 or more via code "A123" $25 off orders of $60 or more via code "BIG25" $30 off orders of $75 or more via code "BIG30" $35 off orders of $85 or more via code "BIG35" $40 off orders of $100 or more via code "DEALIO" $50 off orders of $200 or more via code "BIG50"

I have found them (or a close substitute) at Lowes. Look in the fastener drawers near where the packaged fasteners are located. It is also where you get keys cut.

Download the FSM and Locate, Rent, Borrow a spring compressor. Search for thread about types of oil used in Strut Tube w/cart. (I used ATF). It should fit, BUT you would be better off looking for a sway bar from a 2+2, they are 20mm where as their is nothing to be gained from 280 to 240 sway bar. Yes, this is the best time to replace bushings. Go with Urethane and use lots of silly-cone to lube. I used anti-seize+silicone combo - works great!! You could also consider this time to replace the Bushings on the control arms in the Rear-End. Nasty Job, but since your there... Be Patient, Be SAFE, Have fun, Take pictures You're Welcome

Once the body is nice and straight, spray EVERY surface with Self Etching, then High Build, finally seal with Epoxy Primer. The key is to be consistant and UNIFORM. Obviously the Self Etch will only react with the bare metal -but it will seal the rest of the surface at the same time and provide an uniform surface for the High Build. Make sure to use products from the same manufacturer. It is NOT a good idea to mix and match as these "Paint Systems" are designed to be compatible and provide consistant quality results. You can see the various stages that my Z went through by looking in my Gallery (Albumz) below.

Great reminder! I shall make it so.

Ben, If you want to pull the Strut Housings, you can take it all to my brothers shop and use the Arbor Press to press the axles out. You could also do the bearings at the same time. I think that 20 tons will do the trick.

Agreed..

Cesar, Download the Factory Service Manual (FSM) AND the Fuel Injection Bible (under downloads on this site). Three things, I would check the Thermotime sensor, the Airflow Meter (AFM) and the Throttle Position Switch (TPS) to make sure that they are functioning and set properly. S30 series Z's with Fuel Injection were not equipped with MAF sensors -only AFM. Read the Fuel Injection Bible and begin checking you system out. Use the FSM to further check the condition of your Z.

THAT is an exceptional deal! I did the same and mine ran ~$450. I love the fact that you can take a bunch of greased out stuff and then when you go to pick it up it looks all shiny and new! It is also a bunch of fun putting it all back on! Enjoy and Post some pics!

I second the thought of finding a 'newer' tire guy. Some things to think about: Sometimes you will loose a weight, sometimes the tire will not be completely round -they will develop a hop if they are slightly egg shaped or wobble side to side. The next thing to look at closely is the rims. I am not sure what you are riding, but the older aluminum rims tend to get egg shaped with age and start hopping or they get a lateral shift moving side to side. Ask for the tire to be removed from the rim and then watch the rim spin on the machine. Look to see if it moves out of round. Understand that tire stores will try to compensate by using weights and or shifting the tire on the rim looking for the 'Sweet spot' and make the wheel/tire run true on the balancing machine - this is OK for a lot of cars, NOT a ZCar !

I will see if I can help you. To begin with, download the FSM for the 78 (Search this list or PM me). Download the Fuel Injection Bible (From the Downloads section). Look on the Battery and make sure that you have a large White wire going to the Fusible links and that it has continuity. Report back...

No, the seat frames are different. The 240's have a webbed support structure for the seat bottom and the recline mechanism is different. 280z's have spring supports for the seat bottom and a cam-like recline mechanism. Whichever style you have, I think it would be better to find a good spare rather than weld -that is if you weld like I do!

I haven't dealt with Modern Motorsports, but this subject keeps coming up. Does anyone think it would be valuable to have a Forum to review and list vendors?? Sorry for the hi-jack.

Ben, There are a couple of options to re-chroming the rims around the taillights. I went through this and it is discussed on another thread... But here is the gist of it. There are a couple of places that do Vacuum Metalization on plastic but it is VERY expensive, I mean like $200 each. I have the list and they are mentioned on the other thread. There is another place in Dallas that does a kind of chrome paint - The results are nice and the price is right -but it is very fragile. This is the route I took -but it sucks as the finish has actually vanished off of the taillights right as the Z has been in my garage! I mean holy crap, presto chango and its gone! I think that I pointed it out to you when you visited. What I would suggest (and what I am going to do next) is re-spray the rims with Rust Oleum Chrome Paint and be done with it. Come by and check it out again if you want.

Yo THawk, It would be easier to find someone with a parts car and just replace. The bearings are actually bronze bushings, certainly a replacement could be found and inserted in the arm. You might try a Google search for Wiper Arm Bushings.

I did my seats with the new foam and leather from MSA. I thought that everything turned out fine except that now my head is kinda close to the roof! The seat foams are nice and dense, so I may have to adjust by removing a little of the springs in the seat bottoms. FYI - You can see my seats in the my Albumz(link below).

Coolant is a very interesting thought. For the last 25 years I have used ATF. Heat dissipation is one of ATF's most important qualities. I may have to rethink the coolant trick though.

The clearance inside the car is not that generous, any kind of U-Channel that you might devise could have you bumping your head! I would suggest concentrating on performing the roof transplant -which is heavily documented in this forum.

Thanks man!