ZCurves

Sarah, How old is your fuel pump? I have noticed that my pump will lower in tone as it builds pressure (when first starting), but I am not convinced that it is not working very well either. It is an NOS pump - but that doesn't mean anything. Did you notice a distinct pitch or tone when the pump was no worky?? Low or High, Oscillating or Surging?? The pressure regulator is ~$40, so it might be time to change then check the fuel pressure? I hope I am not rambling, just throwing ideas out.

Why do you want to do this? It gets hot in Kansas City. If you want to permanently remove the A/C BUT retain the vacuum for the Engine\Heat, then here is what you would do. Remove Compressor, Dryer and Condenser. Remove Hard Lines going to and from Compressor, Dryer, etc. Plug lines going into the Firewall. * LEAVE the Magnetic Switches on the passenger fender (these are needed for Heat). * LEAVE the Evaporator in the dash, unless you REALLY want to remove the dash. Remove the Fast Idle Actuator from the Intake Manifold and plug the vacuum line going to the Magnet Valve. Buy Antiperspirant.

I chose the regular, but I wished that I had gone with the full carpet option - I think that it would look great! I have a couple of those black vinyl pieces, but the are not mint. All of the carpet kits will require some trimming, so I would think that if you were patient, you could do a good job. When putting in my carpet, I took the opportunity to paint the floorpan, install reflective closed-cell heat barrier and extra jute where I could. Use 3M Super 77 adhesive to apply. I also used Duplicolor Bumper Black paint to freshen up the panels, it is flexible and the finish dries to a perfect satin finish. Good Luck and post pics.

Mmmm, Twice Pipes. :beer:

Glad everyone is OK. As for the Finisher, if there aren't any chunks missing, you can try JB Weld to repair. I know that BD has the rear bumpers for $195 new. I have several of the tail light assy, PM me if you need one.

If you do not adjust your valves, you shall be punished! Punished I say!

Sweet! Enjoy your ride!!

I have a '78, but I'll throw a few suggestions to you anyway. First, I would get my hands on a Factory Service Manual (FSM) for a 72 240. Look in the Downloads section first, then search for the FSM. When you are new to a particular car AND have a lot of complications, it is best to go back to the original setup. I would remove the MSD and GM equipment and revert back to the OEM setup and then begin to test each component and eliminate each variable. This will help you to diagnose the problem rather than throw time and money at it and hope the problem will go away. You have to get to know your new friend. Is it correct that you bought the Z with the 280 Distributor already installed by the PO?? It sounds to me like something is shorting out, have you tested the distributor? Is the coil good? What about the Ignition Module? Is the wiring correct and complete? There have been many Series 1 guys here that have performed the Distributor conversion w/Electronic Ignition. Search the threads and see if there is something there that will help. I am hoping that some of the 240z members will speak up. Good Luck

I know that odor well, it smells like Maple Syrup. Yuck. Dealing with coolant over the years has ruined oatmeal for me forever!! On the bright side of things it is a great time of year to deal with this issue. Have you discovered where the leak is??? I would remove the Pass Carpet and feel around the Firewall and Trans Tunnel. If your carpet is soaked, you can hose it out and let dry in the sun. While you are at all of this, you might go ahead and replace the Thermostat and flush the Radiator. Good Luck!

Welcome! The information here is plentiful as are the opinions! Just remember a couple of things: Always use the Search feature -for quicker results. When asking a question always state Year and Model. There are no dumb questions. Remember to post pictures - We live vicariously through each other! It is always good to put some additional information in a signature (see below).

No way! Apparently the PO had to get creative. I am sure that some member will be able to help you find the correct pair. Hopefully the body was not altered too much. Good Luck.

argniest, yes my Z is a '78 and 510 Blue (to answer your earlier question). Sorry I did not respond earlier as I have been lurking - no need to post when you have been getting all of this great advice! When you get done adjusting the valves, you can come to Houston and do mine - after all of this I think I could certainly trust you. For the HVAC vacuum question way back on post #18, The fitting you marked as #1 is the one to block off. #2 is for the AC Fast Idle and is controlled by one of the Mag Valves. Did you check ALL of the little EGR related vacuum hoses?? Just had to ask. BTW - When I was young and just learning to work on cars and something or some task would be kicking my Arse, my father would remind me not to get frustrated and angry, but to put my tools down and take a break. Walk away for a while, get a drink, rest your hands and clear your head. It was hard sometimes because I wanted to resolve the issue. Just a reminder. Finally, Why were you posting at 1:14 in the morning?! Go to bed!

Very Nice, especially the shots of the Quarter Panel. Can't wait to see more!

There are only two sizes offered, the smaller of which is for the Coupe. The 2+2 uses the big one.

That tells me a lot, I am really leaning toward it being from vacuum leaks at the Magnet Valves. When these are inoperable the Heating and AC will not function properly. These valves control the Fast Idle and the Mode Doors inside the dash. So although you performed needed maintenance on the Thermostat, the Mode doors are not opening to let the heat flow into the cabin - same would be true for the AC. The AC/Heat controls in the dash need to have a vacuum to operate and that is supplied via the Vacuum Reservoir and the Magnet Valves. In your FSM, refer to pages AC-13, AC-36, AC-37 I think that you are mean Valve Adjustment. Valve Job is a different task and a much more drastic step. I have to mention that from reading your previous posts that you are being too modest in regards to your Z Car knowledge. You have done quite a lot and I for one am very impressed. Good Luck & Post Pics,

You are welcome to the one on my parts car. It is a '78 (and it is in Houston).

Wow, looks like you have been very busy! I am thinking that there HAS to be a vacuum leak somewhere. When you did the smoke test, did they just smoke it or did they add a florescent dye to the smoke and check the underside of the Intake. It is hard to see with the heat shield and everything. The florescence will really pop under the 'special' light/goggles. Did you remove the vacuum line going to the AC control valves BEFORE testing? Those valves sometimes will seize and result in a 'open' condition. Are all of the larger rubber hoses (e.g. Brake booster, Aux Air, PCV, etc) nice and snug?? Just asking. The valve adjustment is no big deal, definitely something you should do. Do you have an FSM for the '78? I have an one in .PDF that I cleaned and added links to the subject areas (to reduce scrolling), PM me and I'll send you a copy.

Ben, Here is a link to the thread I used when I refurbished mine: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?13593-Color-for-grill-rear-tail-light-panel&p=90742&viewfull=1#post90742. Your company sells fasteners that are almost exact replacements. Just follow EScanlon's instructions for removal. I repaired cracks and such with JB Weld and sanded prior to painting. I have spares if needed.

Zed Head is spot on. You might try a piece of Poster Board. The trick is to bridge the transition from the Gauge Bezel to the Dash Cap - AND be patient!!!. I also have the EL gauge faces from Speedhut. Very nice quality and they are great folks to deal with! Highly Recommended.

Zed Head hit a solid Home Run finding this information on zcar.com. This has been a HUGE issue for a while!! I checked on the NAPA part and it was running $9.99 in Houston(as of the date of this post). I haven't checked the $$$ or availability of the Nissan Part, but will soon and repost here. My hat is off to Palladin over at ZCar.com for the hard work and writeup. Many thanks to both!!! BTW: the NAPA part number is: BK 6601000, Nissan Part Number: 27116-P6500

Post a picture of your seats and then another of the seat rails. I believe that you will get a consensus here.

Ben, It would be quickest and most cost effective to put in just enough R12 and dye in the system to get the compressor to engage, then let it run for a while and check for leaks. If you use the fluorescent detection lamp, the leak will show up real quick. After that just address the leak. FYI - The Hitachi system that Nissan used has a real whack-job of an expansion valve - not replaceable.

Are your seat belts intact and functional? If they are merely discolored by the sun, you might consider purchasing some Fabric Spray Dye from SEM or Duplicolor (here in US). I recently did this to mine and they turned out great!. I also used Duplicolor Bumper Black Spray to paint the housings, etc. The seatbelts in your pic are nice though. How do they compare with the originals? Does the 240 have the retractors as the 280z?

The past Saturday, Ben's Z dropped by the house to show off his new Z (He bought it 30 mins earlier!). A very nice '77 model in near mint condition. Very clean, original interior -almost no rust! But wait -I don't want to steal his thunder! I am sure that he will be sharing a lot with us. I took a pic of a happy man! Welcome to the family!

Thats a cool feeling when you lick a problem like that. Removing Hillbilly wiring is always a good thing. Good luck.