ZCurves

I have Six in Houston, Tx. I also have a load of OEM hubcaps and centers as well as two complete sets of OEM Aluminum wheels. If you (or anyone) is interested, let me know -I just would like a fair price (no gouging). Shipping can't be that bad. Let me know if you interested.

I just did this on my Z. Go here: http://www.nostalgicairparts.com/ac/duct-hose-sold-by-the-foot-76.php You want the 2 inch plastic flexible duct hose. I eliminated the little hose going to the drivers floorboard and the duct elbow that went with it. I made two straight shots to the side vents.

I purchased a leather shifter and a e-brake boot on eBay (I will look for the seller), both are very supple and look great. I do recall that the seller was in the UK. If the one that is causing you trouble is leather, I would suggest a generous coat of Lexol or Saddle Soap to soften them up a bit.

Thanks for the pictures! I am still very concerned that I might scratch my glass. I am looking for different types of rivets that might have a lower profile. I am also considering just gluing them in place with some heavy duty adhesive (e.g. Contact Cement, JB Weld).

Question - Does anyone know how reattach the 'window fuzzies'? Nissan used staples in the stainless channel originally. My new 'fuzzies' do not have the staples or other obvious way to install. I have looked at this post: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=38530&highlight=Door+Panel+Fuzzies I just would like to know what else other people have tried in this situation...

Very Nice Z! What is the color code? I really like it. Mine is 510 Lt Met Blue.

If a PO or more likely a Dealer had registered the vehicle with Carfax, then there would be a record of a VIN with < 17 characters or one that has been padded with Zeros.

argniest, Reading your posts, you have my curiosity. Can you post some pictures of your Z? We all enjoy pictures of each others Z's and they help others in resolving problems.

Here are some Fuse Box pictures from a 1978 280z to help you out. Notice the ruler for your reference. IMHO - buy AGC style fuses, clean the Fuse box connections, Install correct Fuse in correct place with dielectric grease. Relax.

1980 280z? Could you post some pictures?? No worries, you'll get plenty of help here!:classic:

argniest - Sorry I have been off of this blog for a while...but you have been in the very capable hands of Fastwoman and Jennys280Z. I think you should pat yourself on the back for not getting angry at the situation and being all frustrated. I'll see if I can help out here a little more. Please forgive me if you have already covered something....So from looking at the conversations on this blog, I believe that you should prepare a checklist so you are not chasing your tail and going nuts (been there already) and spending $$$. So what do you have? (everyone, fill in any blanks..) Fuel Pump Fuel Pump Relay Fuel Pump Circuitry Fuel Pressure Regulator Fuel Filters EFI Circuitry ECU (Brain) AFM Oil Pressure Sender Tight EFI 12v connection to the Battery (White Cable) Fusible Links Ignition??? Check off what you have examined and found to be OK. Start with the easiest ones first. BUT - Before you begin lets talk about Oxidation and our precious Z's. Anywhere there is an electrical connection there is an opportunity for oxidation to occur and interrupt the connection. Oxidation usually looks like GREEN filmy gunk down in the Injector connectors and on the TPS and AFM connections. You can clean this on the Injectors (and other Male Connectors) with the sandpaper trick that was mentioned earlier followed up with Deoxit and then Dielectric Grease. Cleaning every connector will be time consuming and tedious, but it will greatly improve all aspects of your Z's electrical systems. On electrical connectors such as the Fuel Pump, Relays and Fuses the oxidation looks like brown tarnished metal. This is the stuff that causes increased resistance and failure of the circuit. Fuse Blocks and Lighting usually suffer from this. From reading these posts, I really do not believe that you have a fuel pump issue but rather a component issue that is cutting the fuel (OR IGNITION) off. It has been mentioned earlier that the AFM has an Fuel Pump cut-off on it, that should be looked at. The Oil Pressure switch by the Oil Filter also controls some circuitry that can shut off the Fuel Pump. The ECU (Brain) controls the Fuel Pump Relay, a bad ECU could = dead Fuel Pump. Have you thought about the possibility of you ignition shorting and cutting of the car? (sorry if you already covered that). Do you have a Timing Light that you could use to check for a spark when this problem occurs?? Have you checked the EFI 12v connection to the Battery (White Cable) to make sure that it is tight and in proper condition to the Fusible Links? Have you checked the condition of the relays (Fuel & Ignition). Sometimes the Wiring Harness where it goes through the firewall can develop a worn spot and then short and cause all kinds of mayhem. When I worked over my Wiring Harness I replaced all of the Injector Connections with ones that I picked up on eBay. I slipped on heat shrink tubing prior to soldering the connectors, then shrank those on the new soldered joint. If you want to keep tabs on the Fuel Pump, you could wire a Idiot Light to the circuit of the pump as was mention prior in this blog - Well that is all I've got for you now. I have several ECU's and AFM's (in various condition) that might be used for testing purposes if you want... Here is to the Good Fight and your Positive Attitude!

Even Better! Sweet!

Steve - I have to say that this has indeed saved me a bunch of time. I will attempt your technique on my own Z to see if I can track down my own fuel odor. Thanks for the tip.

If you are talking about the front strut assembly, I have found that it is easier to bolt up the top three first - not completely tight just enough to hang it, then match up the control arm. Torque everything to FSM spec. If your are talking about the rear strut assembly, I found it easier to get the spindle pin, etc. done, and then push down on the assembly and insert the top of the strut into the car. Torque everything to FSM spec. !!!! Take your time and be careful not to catch the paint on the lip of the fender !!!:tapemouth

Back in the day, my wife's plates were stolen from her ZX. When I put the reissued plates on the Z, I used large Pop-Rivets to secure them to the car. I think it provided security and had a nice look too. Another thing... Wait till the dildo that stole your plate tries to register it. It should come up stolen at the DPS. If you have a friend that is a police officer, you could ask him the periodically run the plate to see if it had become registered - then go steal it back! Keep your other one just in case....

How about a Charcoal Candy Black or Argent Candy. Something dark but not 'black'. I think that the Candy effect would be sharp.

It doesn't matter that he wasn't the best at detailing, he obviously had great taste in picking them out.

No worries about the Dielectric Grease. I have used it on every connection on my '78. When I was reworking my harness, I pretty much performed what Jennys280z mentioned to do. The Deoxit and other contact cleaners will most certainly remove any grease that it encounters. Fastwoman mentions that her connectors were coming apart, now is the time to check those and replace if needed.

I posted my technique for the Door Panel repair here: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showpost.php?p=346413&postcount=11 As for commercial vacuum plating of plastic, there are very few places that will do it and it is VERY expensive. Here are a few links: http://www.advancedplating.com/ http://www.chrometechusa.com/autoplate.html

You could use some gasket material from the parts store and cut out your own, this is assuming the originals were paper (I cannot remember which). You can use RTV to seal. If they were rubber, you could probably still get by with gasket material and RTV or your could try an new bicycle inner tube sliced open and laid flat -then cut out to shape. Either way it will never be seen once it is installed. I know that you are a purist;), which I admire -so consider this as "as a last resort" advice.

Ok, I am missing something....Is your Z missing the cables altogether? or are they just disconnected? Are there any loose cables near the selector levers on the front of the Heater Box or on the sides of the Heater Box?? If so, you can look at the FSM and reattach them. If the cables are gone, then I am sure that you can find some on this site. Make sure to list your year model. Good luck.

Well, I certainly would pay you the $109 and then some....but the realistic side of me says that you should put it on eBay and see what you could get for it. Don't get me wrong, I need a nice RV Mirror, but I also many other little things for my Z - so I have to choose my battles and spend accordingly.

Looks like I am going to have to get creative! or rob a bank! I think I'll try to make a Frankenstein RV mirror using the stem from the original.

I'll do the same.

Hello everyone, I am not satisfied with the OEM Datsun Z car rearview mirrors that I have been finding and I was wondering if anyone has replaced their mirror with a domestic style windshield mount mirror? I have restored my Z and just hate it that I cannot find a clean OEM rearview mirror. Either the glass is messed up or the plastic is all toasty from years of heat and sunlight. Please let me know what you guys (& Gals) have done. :classic: