ZCurves

CG240Z: Looks like great work. On the fuel rail, where did you get the pressure gauge? What are you using for the Fuel Pressure Regulator? Do you have it installed yet? Pic Please....Thanks.

Thanks for the tip. I am all good on tools/skill for this one... I see my next project!

So was the fuel rail already drilled for barbs? Or did you have to drill & barb for correct placement on the Z? Pics are good, please post some... As I read about deleting the original Fuel Rail and all of the other related crap...it really has me thinking about going clean on the intake manny.

Congratulations on all of your hard work. Finished just in time to have a sweet summer!!! Not that I am being lazy, but are there any particular pieces of advice on these tasks? In all of the years I have had these cars, I have often appreciated others techniques (especially since I am always missing something). I am also keenly interested in the BCDD setpoints. I think that the BCDD issue has been long neglected in the forum. I have been hesitant about messing with the AFM also but this is encouraging me... Great Work!

Inturdnet Explorer has been nothing but a POS, especially after all of the complications with security and Java. I advise installing Firefox, Chrome or even Safari - just don't uninstall IE it is too far integrated into the Windows OS. Simply remove (unpin) the IE shortcuts. I cannot for the life of me figure out why Microsoft allowed their browser to become such a giant failure, especially in the age of Cloud computing.

Oh HELL yeah! I am thinking that this would be perfect for Marine or or small carbs. Thanks for sharing....

Really, any Black oil based paint would be fine, but there is no fun in that - especially if you have POR around... I had mine powder coated with the rest of my suspension.. I would recommend soap and water for the flip flops .....

Just replaced mine, see post with part numbers below: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/fuel-injection-s30/51835-hot-start-issue-efi-who-has-who-doesnt.html#post454170

I bought a set of those replacements years ago and grafted them into my harness. They work well, just make sure to get the boots as well. Now If I were to do this all over again I would choose the connector with the Quick Release spring rather than the traditional clip. The would no doubt make service/inspection a much easier process. Injector Connector 6pc Kit Quick Release EV1 Datsun Nissan 280z 280ZX 300zx Z31 | eBay

Ok, I cannot make out the color of the darker wire in your pic. So assuming that the wire is blue (with yellow stripe), then the yellow wire will go on the RIGHT. If the wire is black with a green stripe, the yellow wire will go on the LEFT. BTW - the blue wire with the yellow stripe shares a connection with MAX terminal on the Fan Switch. Hope that helps.

Ha! I see now....I will look at mine and get back with you. The Dude Abides...:-)

Rossiz, can you post some pics and location of the relay and offending plug. From what you are describing, I may have a touch of this too. I think that this whole thread is very valuable because it is one of those very subtle mind numbing issues that we all have to deal with from time to time. As for a source for a replacement plug, you should try Vintage Connections, they have a bunch of that stuff.

Mike, While JB Weld is a intriguing thought, I suggest welding/brazing to do it right. In my own restoration, I had the holes brazed and then lugs placed in for my mirror to bolt to. Bondo will sometimes fracture and leave spidery cracks in the finish + let moisture in. BTW, I am impressed with your interior door picture. I know firsthand how tight the space is there - great pic.

The shield is there to block splatter from the Cam, you would be OK using Permatex® Ultra Black.

Dude - We need more information... What year is your Z? You can download the wiring diagram for many Z's from here: Z Tech Tips Electrical (AtlanticZ.ca) There is plenty of horsepower here to assist you. Post back.

Hello, It looks like the injectors in your pic are the OEM. The aluminum ring is actually clamps the injector into the manifold. BUT the aluminum transfers the heat more effectively to the metal injector body. Sarah(Fastwoman) had pointed this out earlier in the thread. Since I had to replace a dead injector anyway, I bought new Injector o-ring seals AND the plastic Fuel Injector mounts from Advanced Auto Parts. Below are the part numbers/prices... BWD/Intermotor Fuel Injector Seal Kit Part #28412 $6.49ea (You will need six). Beck/Arnley Fuel Injector O-Ring Kit Part #158-0022 $3.29ea (You only need TWO - 4 in each package). These changes may only make a minute difference - but it is cheap and worth a try. I will keep every posted as to my findings..

Thanks! Thats the ticket! PM Sent.

After lurking on this Thread and suffering from these symptoms (Stock 78 setup), I am changing out the Injector Insulators to the plastic style and adding the ZX injector fan. I feel that with all of the heat shields in place that this might make the most difference. It is going to be a HOT summer here in Houston.

I concur with Rob. That is what I did when I replaced mine.

Is Welding / Brazing an option???

Sure is purdy!

Yes, I have the stethoscope but I was too lazy to walk into the garage. Besides I enjoy getting grease in my ear from the screwdriver handle!

Looking for a similar problem myself... I did the old 'Screwdriver To The Ear Test' on each injector. Discovered my number one injector had failed. I also created a test lamp and confirmed that there was a pulse being sent to the injector - just that the injector had seized. Now I am replacing that injector and resealing the rest....

Thanks for posting the link to the timer! This is great! I am planning to install with a ZX Fan.

I too bought a new one when I was restoring my Z, I do remember that I had to adjust the Glovebox door and catch. I also needed to tweak the mounting tabs for the Center Vent Assy. Looking at the pics, I suggest that you look at it again and try to bend the tabs in a little at a time on the center vent area. For the Glovebox door, I seem to remember there is some wiggle room on the hinge, there are slots where the screws go through to allow for some adjustment. Try removing the catch and adjust the door until it is where you want it - replacing the catch when you are done... Remember to be patient with this old plastic -even though the dash's mfr date is more recent, the center vent and GB door may be less forgiving. Snap/crack some of these interior pieces and you'll be "Attached to another object by an inclined plane, wrapped helically around an axis"...