ZCurves

I would like to see more of the new gauges. Where did you get them, etc. Looks very nice!!

John, Does yours have the metal ribbing inside?? Pictures from anyone would be great! Thanks!

Does anyone have a picture of how the Cowel to Hood rubber seal is installed on a '78 280Z? ALSO does anyone know is the OEM rubber had the metal gripping inside?? Any help is appreciated...

Alex, I have never heard of a "Parts Manual" but rather Micro Fiche. You can search the Forums on this site for "Micro Fiche" to find a link to download, or PM me and I can send you a copy that I have. You can also search for a Shop Manual on .pdf. I know that there is a really good Electrical Schematic for the 1977 S30 available out there too. By the way, I admire your Avatar pic. It is a very good example of "ZCURVES", hence my username.

I just re-installed my Rear Hatch Glass but I had to order another seal from BDM because the first seal (Precision) just did not have enough material and in my opinion fit too snug. The replacement seal (also Precision) was slightly beefier, which was nice because it made fitting the Stainless Trim a breeze. The result, I believe looks much nicer. The first seal which was too snug for my taste is still very usable if someone was not too keen on the Stainless Trim. The rubber is good and would seal fine, there is just a small tear on the corner that holds the trim in place - But it could be made to work. So with all of that said -I just can't bear discarding the seal if someone else could use it. Pay for shipping ($10) and I'll send it to whomever. Just PM me.

Here is what I spent (to the best of my knowledge) to do a complete and proper conversion to a R134 system. Condenser: $100 Evaporator: $60 Dryer: $25 Pressure Switch: $5 Expansion Valve: $20 Custom Make-up of High/Low Lines (R134): $80 NOS Compressor (Nissan 810): $100 Refrigerant & Oil: $25 So we're looking at ~$450 I also added an electric fan to the Condenser because R134 creates more Head Pressure. The fan is run off a relay wired to the AC, so it runs only when the compressor is on. The Custom Hose Make-up was necessary not so much for R134 refrig but because I wanted to replace the aged hoses and allow for the use of the compressor from the 810. I did use Goodyear Barrier hose specific for R134. The Custom Hose Make-up has some tricks to it which I can explain further to anyone interested - just ask. I can also help anyone reading this to find the same parts, if needed.

Sam, I believe that you can remove the Evaporator without pulling the dash although it will be quite difficult. I can understand not wanting to mess with you dash though. It sounds like it is fundamentally working, but it is plugged somewhere hence the 250:30 ratio. Generally it is a 10:1 and 250 on the highside is too high. I am betting that the EV has some crud in it. The Highside line is supposed to get pretty hot - not enough to burn you but pretty uncomfortable to touch. I live in Houston so I know what you are talking about with the heat and 100% humidity! I would take the EV out and clean it with AC Flush (and leave it out). Take the Dryer out and throw it away. Flush the Compressor, the Condenser, Evaporator and the disconnected lines. You may need to Flush the Condenser and Evaporator twice. Reassemble everything, using refrigerant oil (AC Mineral Oil for R12) on the o-rings, compression fittings - be generous with the oil. Use a new Dryer. Add the proper amount (I believe 9.5oz) of Refrigerant Oil to the low side. Pull a vacuum to like (-25 to -30 atm) and let it sit for 30 mins. Check for leaks (Needle rising). If all is good and with the engine off, put one can of R12 in AS LIQUID (can held upside down) into the system. Start engine and top off with R12 (I believe that it is another can and a half). If there are no leaks and it is clean - it should cool like a meat locker. Good Luck

Sam, It would be far easier for you to install a new Evaporator and a modern Expansion Valve rather than try to clean/reuse a 32 year old EV. The effort alone is pretty substantial. If the EV is dirty, then that means that the Dryer or compressor has problems and has begun to throw off debris. In these old systems the refrigerant oil has almost certainly began to degrade and turn brown and get sticky - jacking up everything. I would suggest that you flush the Compressor and Condenser; Replace the Dryer, Evaporator and Expansion Valve. (Make sure to add 9.5 oz of refrigerant oil - specifically for R12 into the Low side). Do not add Polyol Ester oil to an R12 system it will gel any residual Mineral Oil. If you can afford it (and it is practical for you), It would best to replace the components and charge with R134. I can help you either way - I have already replaced the AC in my 78 Coupe with an R134 system. I know where to get the parts, etc. I am also IMACA(MACS) certified. Do what is practical for you. Let me know if I can help. Good Luck,

Very Nice! But what about heat!? Looks like you would have a toasty floorboard!

I have been reading these ZZZap treads for a while, I remember the cars when I was a teenager, pretty slick. I have always been a fan. Fast forward 30 years - I bought a pickup truck load of Z parts from a guy who was doing one of those kit car conversions, I needed the spare parts for my own restoration. I keep my parts in a warehouse and I was looking over my goodies when I started noticing Yellow Paint. Remembering this thread, I looked at the hood and fenders - Sure enough! ZZZap! Sad that a nice Zap was cut up for a kit car. I ended up with the roof, fenders, hood and deck lid, etc. To add insult to injury, I found that my other parts car is a Black Pearl (although never striped). I even had the VIN verified by Nissan (year/paint code)! It did not matter though because it was a rust bucket extraordinaire and could have never been saved. So in the end... My average 1978 280z (510 Metallic Blue) was brought back to life from parts from two iconic Z's - A ZZZap and a Black Pearl. Usually, lesser pedigree cars are used to restore the "Special" ones. Kind of bitter sweet, don't you think??

OK, Cool. Now all of these bumper alterations are haunting me. Should I, or shouldn't I?? Hmmmm....

Sorry - just saw the other post.:stupid:

What was involved in converting these to work on a 280?? I am VERY interested in this conversion since the chrome alone was >$800 for the bumpers and the rubber is hard to find. Please post your experience.:laugh:

I have a '78 Coupe and I need some replacement Drip Rail Clips. I searched the forums and found an old thread that included the pic and part number, then I contacted Nissan and of course, they're NLA. So my ZCar Brothers and Sisters, if you have a few around I would greatly appreciate the help. Please PM me. As I finish the re-assembly of my Z, I am probably going to ask for other interior fasteners and such - any help is appreciated. Perhaps I have something you might need!??? BTW: The Part Number was/is :73815-N3701 Thanks,

I just read this post and I just have to chime in and say, I LOVE THE PEARL TOPCOAT!! The red is super sharp with the Gold TC! I think that pearl really can turn an regular paint job into an extraordinary one! In my paint job, the painter kicked the fleck just a tad because there is so much silver in the 510 blue. In the end I got the the pearl/light candy look. Enjoy the pearl!

Very Nice! I like old school, you just can't do much to improve on those 'Z-Curves'. Classic wheels, classic lines awesome. Now post pics when your are done! Keep up the good work!

From your pics, it looks like you do not have a belt on the A/C so that variable is gone. Like Frank said, check the tension on the Alternator Belt. If you still have a squeal or "other" noise, then check the Alternator bearing and then the Water Pump. Check the Fan Clutch for excessive play when the engine is cold.

You might try to find a later S30 Compressor Mount for the block. The ZX bracket is aluminum and considerably lighter. You could use most of the under the hood plumbing from a 280z and then have custom hoses made for the connection to the compressor. Finally for the compressor itself you could look for one from an 810. The 810 compressor has a smaller pulley which will act as an Underdrive - reducing drag (a little). I know that the compressor is ~$150, and the custom hoses are ~$100. I have a lead for NOS compressors - in fact I have an unused one I'd let go for $75 - the shipping is like $30. I'll be happy to pass on the compressor source on (I just need to find his information). PM me if you are interested.

All good advice aside, How can we live vicariously if you don't post pics of your new wheels? Oh the shame!

If you washed the engine, then more than likely you got water in the Throttle Position Sensor connection. It would be a good exercise to remove the plug, and blow it out with compressed air. Clean the connections and follow up with some dielectric grease before plugging the harness back in. My .02 !!

Guys, I would replace the Belts AND while your at it Replace the bearings in the Belt Tensioners. I have like eight or ten of these that I bought in bulk. PM me with your address and they are yours (Just pay for the postage - probably $3-$4 bucks). This is a good 'Pay It Forward' opportunity for me. NOW after that is done, If you still have the squeal, then your looking at the Clutch Throw-Out Bearing, which will have to be another discussion....

When I restored my seats, I carefully cut the original clear plastic pieces from the old covers (Nissan sewed them on) and then just inserted them when I put the hardware back on. I soaked them in Dawn detergent to remove the grease. They are a wee bit discolored but you cannot really tell. You might be able to see them in my Album. Click link below.

Johnny'O - Just saw the post and all I can say is Fantastic! That sure is Slick and Shiny! Does it have an metal flake in it?? Be sure to keep posting pics!

These are NOT '77 - '78 seat covers. Perhaps the seller made a mistake...