ZCurves

Very exciting! Can wait for the pics! - but with more closeups!! :classic:

It would be good to snag the pics to use as a reference for Black Pearl owners wishing to do a restore. I there a place to store them here, rather than my own album...

I found his ugly big brother! http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=38481 :tapemouth

You have to wonder... How hot is it in Nevada?? Check this link out! http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Datsun-Z-Series-WILDEST-CUSTOM-Z-PLANENT-/290430612006?cmd=ViewItem&pt=US_Cars_Trucks&hash=item439f037226 I dropped this in the ZX Forum - because, well just go look.

Just a thought, do you have any Spares -just incase you want to revert to stock or repair damage. As for a recommendation, you are at the right spot. I am sure that this thread will yield the right info.

Rockauto.com has it for $86 Fuel Injection Auxiliary Air Supply BOSCH Part # 64402 {Auxiliary Air Valve} You do not have to limit your search to just ZCars, ALL of the Fuel Injected, L-Series powered cars had them. These do not go bad that often. You might start asking around to see if you can get a good one from another member.

Nice, Real Nice. I almost had to wear sunglasses.

The intention was not to focus on the cost of the Paint and Body, but rather that is was suspicious that the quote was for "$8000 -$9000 with Additional cost for parts". A proper quote would have considered all of the materials AND the potential the unseen damage and priced accordingly. Often, when additional damage is discovered the body shop can go back and explain and show the cause for "Additional Cost". It should never be Carte Blanche. From the pics, I just did not see all of the rust that this guy claimed was unrepairable and thought is was weird. Like Jellobob777 stated, "The question becomes one of trust with the shop doing the work" -I guess I am just suspicious.

I am thinking that he is looking to plump up his margin. I would almost pay him for the work he has already done (get a receipt), then I would take it somewhere else. He is going to Rob you and then when the work just isnt quite right - there will be all of these excuses. I am telling you - Listen to my keyboard.... From the pics, it just looks like a bunch of Bondo, I did not see any catastropic rust. Sometimes these body guys get lazy knowing that they can do a panel quicker than putting work/skill in fixing a repairable panel. Did you get the estimate in writing from this shop?? I am thinking that the $8000 -$9000 is pretty high especially with "Additional cost for parts"... I mean Holy Crap. Does anyone else smell some BullSheeeit??? I say get your car and look elsewhere. I'll send you pics of my Rear Quarters, or you can go to TABCO. BUT you have to listen to all of us on this thread! You have quite a collection of folks who have already rode in this rodeo. The place that did my Z would do it for $5K - $7K. Look at the pics in my Gallery.

This is great, thanks!

I have a '78 parts car in Spring, Tx that I am going to finish off this summer. I know that the Rear Qtr Panels are good and perhaps a few other areas as well. Aside from a couple of parts promised to OldHemi, I will make it worth your while, if you are interested in the quarters. You can PM me.

There is this Grafiti Remover spray that is sold at Lowe's and HD. It is pretty viscous and should have some good 'hang time'. I am thinking that you could spray some of that and use a scraper to clean it up real nice. BTW what adhesive are you planning to use when you reinstall the Headliner? I've heard others used 3M Super 77, any thoughts.

Dave, I have a couple of the ugly steering wheels for my '78, one of which has "Melted" from age and heat. I am going to make a laminated wood replacement using one of my ugly ones. The intention is to get a wheel that resembles the one on your picture. Could you please measure the diameter of the rim on your steering wheel and the distance between the grips (finger indentations). I would really appreciate it.

Great Point, Jon. Perhaps I should look into one of those.

It would seem to me that having to heat ALL of the bolts you encounter with an Oxy torch is pretty extreme. I am thinking that you need to let some of the bolts soak with some WD-40 for a while. There are several methods to freeing up bolts that have seized from age and rust. There is the Penetrating Oil Soak, There is the Shock Method (not with electricity) -this involves striking the bolt with a drift (softer metal rod, i.e. Brass..) or Punch. There is the Freeze Method - whereby you Heat the Bolt/Nut slightly and then you apply Ice or other coolant to the Fastener to be removed. This works by expanding the Nut and contracting the bolt. A 'coolant' you could use is the compressed gas 'Dusters' from an Office Supply store. Heat as mentioned above and then spray the bolt with the Duster turned up-side-down. Finally, there is the Oxy-Actl, which you have been using - this is not so great because you are heating (and expanding both the Nut and Bolt). When working with Brake Lines, you MUST have a set of Flared Wrenches to get these loose without destroying the fitting - BUT that sometimes does not even help. Working on brake lines sucks and sometimes you have to mangle you way out to a fitting that will break loose and then replace the crap that wouldn't budge. I would suggest the Soak then the Shock methods with a good Flare Wrench. Shock by using a Flare Wrench that is one size too small. Snug it against the fitting and tap -you don't have to go ape, just tap. Now try to loosen with the correct Flare (I am thinking it is a 10mm). Still no bueno? Then what I have done is get a good pair of Channel Locks and then grip the Sheot out of the fitting and then jerk real quick to loosen. This has usually been as medieval as I have had to go on a Z. I hope that some of my tips will help you out. Please let me know.

Since answering the previous post, I got to thinking that I would love to get my hands on a complete set of the OEM Heat Shields from a California Z exhaust. This would include the Pipes and Muffler. If anyone can hook me up, please PM me! I would appreciate it a bunch!! :laugh: I am finishing Hijacking now...

These 'Pre-Mufflers' were essentially 'Glass-Paks' that provided some primary form of sound suppression before moving on to the Muffler. You are probably correct about it being a 'CAT-filler' for non-California Z's. With all of the exhaust system options available, I would NOT put one of these back on the car unless you were wanting to make your Z as quiet as possible. If that were the case, you could go 2-1/2" from the collector to a 2-1/2" Glass-Pak and then on to a 2-1/2" Dyna-Flow or other free flow muffler. This would provide the least restriction with the quietest output. IMHO - I would keep it as simple as possible! I have 2-1/2" all the way out from the collector, but I am really loving the Twice Pipes! You can hear some Z's with Twice Pipes on YouTube - search 'Twice Pipes'. These have the most amazing sound. After all it is a ZCar, not a Oldsmobile.