ZCurves

That's a lot of work for 10 percent improvement. I would leave it alone.

I finally received the door panel kit from DatsunRestore.com on Thursday 3/4. I had been in touch with Troy from DatsunRestore, he discovered that USPS had delivered the box to the wrong address - so he shipped a replacement. Pretty prompt. I will post pics of the project once I get started.

No! Z's require 0 Offset.

Thanks Michael! What is that one under the Hood Support??

THANK YOU everyone for your efforts. I purchased my stickers from Banzai Motorworks (http://www.zzxdatsun.com/). They stamped my paintcode for me - all of their items are FIRST CLASS - very impressive!! Someday I hope to show you mine over a beer, since I missed the coffee meet earlier.

Does the '78 have the rubber guide wheel that I have heard others talking about. I am about to get into this on my Z and wanted to be forwarned. Also I cannot find one on the Microfiche. Chime in everyone.

You are correct sir. In highschool, I had a bug (actually several) anyway, this is akin to straight pipes usually used for a Sandrail. It is missing the extractor that bolts to the center and points up like a tail. Very loud, very cool but not street legal here in Tx.

Congrats! I dig the color! I am Blue with envy!

Well, you may have to try what cygnusx1 did and have a body shop "Bend" the hatch. I hate to say the word 'Bend' when referring to a ZCar, It sounds too Neanderthal, but sometimes it is necessary. I was shocked when I saw the body shop that did my paint work use a 2x4 and a Mallot to adjust panels prior to paint. They were not going ape, but it sure did look primitive. Sometimes, the Hinges can be higher on one side than the other. This could also cause one of the corners to lift because the frame is torqued. Try it with a piece of cardboard and you'll see what I mean. If you attempt to adjust your hinges, loosen the dovetails and put them in the lower most position first, then adjust the hinges. When you are satisfied, bring the dovetails back up to snug the hatch and prevent wiggle. What ever you do to correct this issue, make sure you check for leaks afterwards.

I used the silicone that came with my Prothane kit and blended it with anti-seize. Everything is quiet. I picked up the tip from an oldtimer a while back. If you think about it, anti-seize is the perfect adjunct to the silicone. It is cheap and made to 'Dry-out' leaving an slippery film. Besides have you ever tried to wipe anti-seize off of you hands? Very persistant! I would use it again - "an ounce of prevention beats a pound of cure";).

You need to adjust the Dovetails on either side of the Hatch, then adjust the Latch. If your Dovetails are nasty, you could clean/paint/replace at this point so you would not have to disturb the adjustment in the future. The parts are readily available and not very expensive.

Find yourself a good friend to lend a hand while removing and then again when aligning the tranny during the re-install. Make sure to inspect your Rear Main Seal. (This is located behind the Flywheel) If it is leaking, now is the time to change it. Make sure that you also change the Pilot Bearing and Shifter Bushings. Go with Bronze Shifter Bushings. Over the years I must have replaced the cheap OEM Shifter Bushings 3 or 4 times. When you get the tranny out, you should drain the gear oil and change the rear seal so when you re-insert the driveshaft it does not develop a slow leak. During my restore, I flushed my 5 speed with ATF and allowed it to drain for a while prior to re-installing. Don't bother filling it with gear oil until it is back in the car. Have fun!!

Now that's a good Mama! Be sure do something special for her!!

Gosh, thanks for the clarification...

I have a repro sticker kit and I need assistance with some pics including measurements for correct placement. I would be much obliged, if a fellow '78 owner could post some pics of the OEM stickers along with a tape measure so I could put mine in the correct spots. I need shots of the inside of the Hood, the Radiator, Paint Code, Glovebox door and any where else there is an OEM sticker. Thanks to all in advance!!!:laugh:

Has anyone used the DatsunRestore.com Door Panel Kit?? I have one on order but I havent seen it yet (it was to be shipped earlier this month) and my attempts to get them to give me a status have been frustrating. Has anyone had difficulties with them??

This occurs when the brake fluid in the Master Cylinder drops too low. Generally, it means that your pads/linings are worn and need to be inspected and or replaced. You should check your brakes for any signs of leakage especially the rear Brake Cylinders. If there are no leaks or worn out parts, then adjust the rear brakes and then bleed ALL of the fluid out and replace with fresh brake fluid. IMPORTANT: The brakes are the most important part of your car. Do not be cheap when replacing worn parts -they are not that expensive! No matter how nice your Z may be, it wont matter if you wrap it around something and hurt yourself...

I was checking out this thread and saw oldhemi, pop this one out. I love it when one of us has an issue and another dude drops the answer like that. BAM - problem solved.

Curtis240Z took the words right out of my mouth. After 25 plus years of replacing the antenna because they stopped working or because some jerk broke the mast, I chose to have my antenna 'shaved' (see My Albumz below). Instead I went with a modern hidden antenna that sits in the dash. I also listen to XM/MP3's more often now so I am installing the tiny XM antennna on the metal dash finisher near the windshield.

This weekend I was installing my gauges into my dash and it appears that I misplaced my stinkin screws that go into the top of the bezel on the Tach and Speedo :mad:. Sooo, what I am needing is a replacement pair, or some advice on some tricks that some of you have tried. Help a bro out! Yes I can find some suitable ones at the local harware store, but I wanted to ask everyone first. Thanks.

I may have one. I will check....

Jeff, I have a '78 and what you are going through is similar to what I experienced when I "woke" my car up. Your problem is not with the Sender, so scratch that one off the list...Did you change the Fuel Pressure Regulator? Earlier, you mentioned that you heard Buzzing coming from the Fuel Pressure Regulator, that is ok, it should do that. What was happening was the system was building pressure and the spring inside the Fuel Pressure Regulator was being compressed. Did you check the wire harness to the Oil Pressure Switch? When you Unplug the Oil Pressure Sender, can you hear the Fuel Pump buzzing (With Key on)? Try to start with the Oil Pressure Sending unplugged. If it starts, does it shutdown when you plug it back in? Just as a Sanity Check, check the following: Did you make sure the AFM is functioning and plugged in securely? Is the brain (ECU) plugged in and screwed tight to the body? Have you re-checked the Fusible Links? Is the HOT lead (White Wire) from the battery to the EFI system Clean, Tight and have good integrity?? Post back with your findings. We can lick this one, it is something obvious....(I hate those...)

Generally, the hoses don't wear out. The vacuum check valves can get gummy. When I was looking for the parts for my Z, I found that the vacuum valves that Nissan used were the same across several models. I replaced mine with one from a Sentra. Some of the vacuum check valves have a rubber spacer donut that can be removed - then it will fit perfectly on a Z.

I had my suspension components powder coated, I never really thought about coating with POR. Everyones pictures sure look sharp!

After the Dogleg has been repaired, you can access the backside by removing the Seatbelt assembly and shooting the POR material through the bolt hole. Just make sure that the POR does not dry on the threads!