ZCurves

I have a OEM 'extra' padded arm rest/ console cover from Datsun. I think that it was made by AMCO.

First decide on the paint Brand that you want to use (e.g. PPG), then follow what the mfr states as their "System". They usually will have a guide online as to the type of products in the system and the order which it is applied to the surface. This is important because you do not want to have any incompatibilities when you are ready to lay down your paint. Mistakes are expensive AND time consuming to repair. There is a Pretreatment Coating, Primer Surfacer, Primer Sealer then the Single-Stage coating. If you go Two-Stage then there is still one more. For more information go here, and select a one of the pdf's on the right. Again, find your brand and educate yourself to their "System or Process" and follow it to the letter and you should have great results (at least chemically) - Skill at laying down paint is another thread.....

I agree with Thriller and idoxlr8 about not leaving the metal bare for too long. Work in small areas at a time (e.g. Quarter Panel), sand it down and remove the old finish and any filler. Immediately take some reference pics with a digital camera, then spray with a Acid Etch Sealer/Primer. This will protect the metal while you move to the next area to be stripped or repaired. When I was working on my Z, I had the whole thing sealed in this yellowish-clear sealer (I don't recall the brand) for over a year while I worked all of the dents, rust and crap out.

I was looking for the kilo of coke in the Black Gold.

What about switching to a cable like modern cars?? I vaguely remember that someone in the club did that.... time to search.

Excellent write up Jarvo! Great pics too.

I would encourage you to look at other alternatives such as installing a newer AC setup and replacing the Heater Core. It is always impressive when an vintage car has it's functionality rather than work-arounds that wonk up the ride.

This still sounds very promising! Make sure to keep us up-to-date and post lots of pics!

Yeah buddy! Get rid of the old varnished fuel.

I put all of the Satellite gear for my unit in the space above the Glovebox on my Z. There is room on the bottom side of the dash and some on the firewall. I put the Sat. Antenna on the Dash Finisher rather than the outside of the car. I still gets a great signal.

Unless your Z has a huge gaping hole that the battery is falling through (as mine once did), I suggest that your time would be better spent looking (and waiting) for a cut-out from another Z. You will be much happier with the results AND the unibody will be stronger. Nothing is worse than hack job body work on a Z. I would start asking others on this forum to see if someone might have a good cut-out. I will check my parts car to see if it is any good. If so, I will trade you mine for a gallon of Tennessee White Lighnin . There may be pics of my battery repair in 'MyAlbumz' below my signature.... If not, PM me and I'll see if I can dig some up.

Thank you, Sir! I agree, I am hating it too. I see a complete lock change-out in my future!

Congrats on getting her running! Now you need to order a complete set of Fusible Links (Go to Bonzai Motorsports, Courtesy or MSA), You need to keep an eye out to find out why the link popped. If it keeps popping, then you risk frying some of your wiring harness and that would suck:mad:. Quick note about the Fusible Links and Replacing/Testing Batteries in the car. The load testers at the local parts house have almost always popped my fusible links - I encourage you to remove the Positive battery cable prior to doing such a load test on a suspect battery. You might consider placing a fresh set of fuses in your Z. Many Z's have 30+ year old fuses in them -lot's of "Weirdness" was removed when I replaced all of the fuses and cleaned the connections at the fuse block. If you have not located a Factory Serivce Manual (FSM), EFI Bible or the Propero's Color Wiring Diagram - I strongly suggest you do so, it will save you many headaches. I have a great PDF version of the '78 FSM. PM me and I'll send you a copy. Good Luck

I ran into the exact thing when I was rebuilding my engine. I ended up sticking with the original OEM exhaust manny with a big 3" pipe and it has worked well with a basically stock head - no duh right! BUT since you went to the time and expense of having your head worked over at a performance shop, I would suggest you try to at least compare another header before settling back to the original, in the end I don't believe it will make that much of a difference - especially if you go with a big pipe to the tail. I have to say though I am pretty damn happy with the way mine turned out.

This was a complete Key Lock and Ignition Switch setup - $150 from Advanced Auto Parts. I figured if I were in it, I might was well change all of it. The only part I am hating now is that I have two keys instead of one. Bummer.

Here are my two cents and a few questions....Assuming that you can turn the engine over (good battery) When you put the key in the ignition and turn it to the on position, does the fuel pump hum? It should hum for a 10 or so seconds and then shut off. Have you removed the fuel line going from the Fuel Filter to the Fuel Rail and observed fuel flowing in a strong steady stream? No Fuel? Check Fuel Pump. Assuming you have fuel..... Do you have a Spark? Do you know how to check the Timing? Check the Timing. (10 Deg. BTDC) Check the Air Flow Meter to make sure the flap is free and moving and the wiring harness is in good shape and plugged in. Check the Throttle Position Switch to see if the wiring harness is in good shape and plugged in. Did you wash off the engine? Check for moisture in the Throttle Position Switch plug. Make sure the Large White Wire going from the battery is intact and tight (this is for the EFI). Check the condition of the Fusible Links to make sure they are tight (especially the red one in the housing closest to the battery) Check ALL electrical connections to make sure they are secure. Check those out and report back. Your answers will help members to isolate your issue and get your Z running. There are no stupid questions!

Glad you're alright! How about a pic or two...

I agree with Diseazd - But I slicked mine up first with Permatex #2. It is a bit old school, but I don't plan on having to do it again.

I wanted to update everyone to my solution to the intermittent ignition problem that I was experiencing last fall. To catch you up here is the original post:

Banzai Motorsports has the OEM style. Ask for Mike.

This is true! I have used Phosphoric for years to combat corrosion. Stanley is spot on. We have a beach house in Galveston and have used phosphoric acid on boat lifts, boats, fences, table saws and it will stop the corrosion dead in it's tracks. I use it straight and allow to dry - do not rinse off. During the restoration of my Z, I used phosphoric in all of the closed spaces, then after a week of hot days to allow for the acid to dry, I followed with the Eastwood Rust Inhibitor via the sprayer kit. I have not tried the Valvoline or Boeshield T-9 products but I believe they are much the same. It is similar to Cosmoline used in the military. Phosphoric acid is known to be a terminal oxidizer. It is a very strong reagent and when it has completed its job of converting iron oxide to ferric phosphate it can be brushed off and painted (POR-15 or Rust-Oleum) or left alone. This is why it is so effective in the closed in areas such as Upper and Lower Frame Rails, Rockers, Door Posts,etc.. The Eastwood, Valvoline or Boeshield T-9 products provide the active protection simply by being viscous on the surface. Phosphoric Acid can be obtained at any larger paint store for ~$20/Gallon. You can also reuse "captured" acid as it flows off of items that are being treated - it wont look pretty, but it is just as effective. Some Trivia: What gives many Cola soft-drinks that crisp refreshing taste? You guessed it...

Will the larger link up to the lock assembly? Sometimes the replacement part is a little different than OEM. It looks like it would fit on the top (pic #2). See if I am close- I hate rigging stuff. If you have to punt, I found a complete Cylinder Lock and Switch Assembly at Advance. I thought this post was eerie because I replaced the assembly just last night. Buy Beck/Arnley Key, Lock and Ignition Switch Assembly 201-1179 at Advance Auto Parts Good Luck.

That might have been me. I used it and am VERY happy. One - two gallon container is enough for an entire Z. Go here to read more:

If it is not leaking, leave it ALONE! Is there any of old stud hanging out that you can see? This will be a good opportunity to learn in the future. If you take it to a mechanic - the only thing smoking might be your wallet! Consider repairing it yourself, there are plenty of us to help.

In the past, I have done exactly what Captain Obvious has done. Getting ready to do it again since my current ignition lock is giving me fits