ZCurves

Installing new injectors for your z will definately help, but Iam thinking that there is something else going on. I would eliminate issues with the wiring harness, ECU, dropping resistors, etc. You can use an meter or an idot light to check the injector connectors- it would'nt hurt to replace the connectors when you replace the injectors. Check ALL of the ignition components to make sure that is not a problem. Check it out and let us know what you find out.

I used QuietCar - Now known as QuietCoat (QuietCoat - Leading Sprayable Viscoelastic Polymer for Noise and Vibration Damping). I was trying to just firm up everything, NOT attempting to make the Z acoustically perfect. The QuietCoat was sprayed into the Doors, Roof and Hatch, I gave it three coats except for the roof. Then I added several nice blobs of silicone on the edge of the Inner Door Supports. All of this reduced A LOT of the road noise and when you close the doors, they do not sound 'tinny' - but more like my Altima - a firm thump! The QuietCoat stuff is a waterbased, viscoelastic polymer that looks like a Charcoal Milkshake. You can spray it or apply it with a brush and roller. It is usually dry in 24 hours but I waited a week before reassembling the interior. The small two gallon size will probably do two Z's -unless you do the floorboards as well. The only reason I didn't use on my floorboards is that I used a aluminum heat wrap there instead. I am very satisfied so far - good stuff!!

I would go to a parts store and match up the o-rings. The parts here locally have trays of o-rings for 'free-style' fitting. I am pretty certain it will be that way where you are too. It might be tricky to find the little one on the little plunger inside the housing. I think it is great you went the extra step to actually remove and repair the Proportioning Valve - most people ignore it. I am glad that you posted pics too, that will be good for the future. Let us know the outcome!

I would just get a gasket scraper and take my time to remove the old material. It wont take more than an evening or two, unfortunately there are no quick and convenient solutions other than a machine shop.

I ditched the crappy collapsible spare and 'can of air'. I found a spare from a '99 - '00 Altima (4 stud), It is a space saver, requires no can o air and fits in the storage spot (and it is not 35 years old).

I have a few of these pieces. I think the cowl might be crusty though. PM me if you are interested.

Here is a link to a quick NYTimes video on the making of a Dodge Viper. I wish there was a video like this of a Classic Z. Manufacturing a Viper - Video - The New York Times Enjoy!

I am voting for bad internal regulator in the alternator. It is not uncommon at all to get a bad alternator from the parts house. Hell, one time I went through three in a row! During that episode, I learned to basically do this: Test the Alternator while still in the car, Load and No Load. Have the auto parts store test the alternator in the car again. Have the auto parts store test ANY alternator you buy BEFORE leaving! Drink Beer. Good luck!

What is you VIN #??, this is a wee bit off topic, but my 78 has a prod date of late '77 and so I was just curious how close our Z's are. My VIN is in my sig below... I will post my AFM # for you soon.

Very nice - I like the color and the wheels.

No, assuming that you will be laying the Dynamat uniform and flat. Dynamat is heavy and the roof gets hot - I would be more concerned with all of that staying put. Perhaps another member can chime in....

RT Hunter - You are correct! The later S30's had an elevated floor made from MDF and was covered with carpet. I suppose that you could find the Toolbox lids and Spare Tire cover from a 240z and convert the hatch area so that you could have easy access. I always thought that it was weird that Nissan elevated the rear deck. The S30 body remained largely unchanged until the introduction of the ZX (S130) in 1978. The only noticeable alterations to the body, (ignoring the interior) were Bumpers and Door Jamb Latches - Nissan left the toolboxes and even the tail-gate vent stamping on the later S30's (hence the rubber plugs on the underside - these were for vents on the 240's). I imagine that once Nissan got the body stamping to a satisfactory point it was not economically beneficial to change things when they were moving toward the S130 platform. The S130 had accessible toolboxes -so someone at Nissan must have liked them.

I am in the Houston area, let us know where she'll be interred....

Well, the only way that I removed these is to use an adjustable wrench and snug it up on the shaft underneath it, then short of pop it off. The adjustable wrench will help keep the plastic from getting damaged. It should not take much force. Lube and replace in reverse order. BTW - when I replaced mine, I used Brass Bushings on the Pin, which I thought were much more durable and provide a tighter feel. Good luck.

It sounds like you have a molding strip for a later model S30. The later model Z's use screws to attach the molding to the window. Can you post a pick of your window? BTW -When you install on the Z, you do not need adhesive on the outside of the frame when attaching to the body, just slick up with some silicone oil or soapy water and it should seal on it's own.

skillinp - you show pics of your mirrors but none of the Z. Pants Down Spanking for you!

yeah, I would be interested in some goodies for my 1978. Off the top of my head are front and rear bumpers, interior trim. It would be great to create a list by Model and Part Number that we could share. Thanks for giving the Forum 1st notice!

Ditto tlorber.

Your best bet is to Braze with a bronze rod and grind smooth. If you do not know what you are doing, have a body shop do the work or practice on some scrap first. Too much heat will warp the metal leading to other problems.

That is a fine looking Z. I especially like the photo and the contrast between the graffiti and the clean smooth 'ZCurves' of the Z.

Go get another bulb, I had the LED in my '78 and it was dim as well - I went back to the OEM style.

I used to have the type that "collared" the strut tube and then had the fingers for the spring like shown in first post. I now have a set similar to the Northern Tool ones. http://www.northerntool.com/shop/too...5955_200355955

I went to NAPA when I worked over the fuel system on my Z. They have all of the large diameter fuel hose that you will need to fix your fuel leak. Just take your old one in for match up. Surely they have a NAPA in Albany!

I second that!!

You need to first deal with the rust. Go to a paint store and buy a gallon of Phosphoric Acid and thoroughly soak the rusty areas and let it dry. You do not have to be all fancy and complicated with the rust neutralization. Do what I said with the Phosphoric Acid before and AFTER welding in repair panels. This will set you up for POR and no more rust. You will also need to spray Phosphoric Acid up into the upper frame rails, lower frame rails and rocker panels - anywhere that is concealed. Follow with something like Eastwood's Heavy-Duty Anti-Rust or SEM rust prevention. DO NOT fill the holes with epoxy as this will just lead to further decay. I see you are in SOCAL or nearby, so you could start looking for a donor car in a junk yard that could yield the appropriate patch panels. Certainly you would be able to locate one in parts yard down towards LA or on this forum. Take your time and weld in correct patch panels for sound structural repair. Have you looked over the rest of the Z for rust? In addition to the areas I mentioned above, have you looked at the floorboards, around the tail-lights and rear deck??? There may be more surprises! But I hope not.