ZCurves

Brian, I have a '78 280Z. Most of this discussion would be safely applicable to the later model S30's, but when you are looking at a 240, that's when others need to chime in (eg Carl Beck, Zedyone...). I suppose that most of these parts would work under the hood, but when you get into the dash of a 240 - that is where I must punt. I guess that it would also depend on if your 240 ever had AC to begin with. Some dealer installs used a compressor mounted on the right of the engine, later L28's had a mount on the left side under the AFM and throttle. These used a heavy cast-iron mount for the earlier cars, switching to aluminum in the 280ZX. I changed mine to aluminum. You might be able to use one of these mounts with a later model compressor along with the plumbing from a later model to get yourself to the dash. You might consider a couple of things: Check out Vintage Air: http://www.vintageair.com/ Or Motorsport Auto: http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/SAC02/16-7567 Post what you are working with, include pics (pics are good). I am certain that answers for what ever is buggin you with your 240Z AC will be handled by the group.

I looked back at some older posts, and collected the various Parts Suppliers/ Part Numbers/ $$$ and put it all here. Feel free to update for future readers... Great place with LOTS of AC parts (including Heater Control Valves!)... AMC (Air Manufacturing Corp.) 1040 E. 4TH STREET GRAHAM, TEXAS 76450 (940) 549-0288 www.amcmfg.com -Or- http://www.marketworks.com/storefrontprofiles/default.aspx?sfid=75198 Condenser: http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/details/QQNissanQQ280ZQQSillaQQA-fs-C_CondenserQQ19751978QQSILLAC8060.html Accumulator/Drier: http://www.discountacparts.com/addtocart~year~1978~make~Nissan~model~280Z~descript~A-C_Accumulator-Drier~part~60-30571.asp# Part # 60-30571 $40.00 Remember, Nissan used a lot of the same AC components on ALL of their cars (and still do!). So, if you have to, look for model years for 810's, Maximas, Stanzas, etc. Evaporator: http://www.rwiamerica.com ~or~ http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/16-7520 Expansion Valve & Accum/Drier: (USE FLARED FITTINGS!!): http://www.onlineaccompressors.com Part Number: 60-40201 Heater Valve Repair Kit from NAPA: Part No. BK 6601000 or buy new from: www.amcmfg.com Pressure Switch: http://www.drivewire.com/vehicle/nissan-280z/ac-switch/ Four Seasons Part # FS35758 $5.70 Here is a link to an old post where we discussed this topic before.... http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=39425&p=375096&viewfull=1#post375096 Parts Bottom Line... Look around, internet search, Use this forum! You WILL find the parts needed -often at a reasonable price. After all - it's not Rocket Science, but it is science...

What SteveJ said.... I put 15X7 Konig Rewinds on my Z, they are fine However if I were going to do it again I would seriously consider 16x7's. I got a great promotional deal at Discount Tire in Houston - I have their card and got interest free for 6 months (you just have to commit to knocking out the balance in time).

This is good information. I saw that you had the EFI manual, Do you have a copy of the '77 FSM or Electrical Diagram? Perhaps that would help you find out what the wire is for...You can pick up a copy of the '77 Electrical Diagram Here.

Kai, I think you are spot on to look for a systemic approach to a retrofit. You stated that the present system was non-functioning when you bought the car, throwing parts and freon into the car is just going waste your time and money. If you want a long-term solution, that is going to work - you have to change all of the components. Since the car is all apart, now is the time to do it right. I replaced everything when I was restoring my Z and what I went through may help. First you need a shopping list. Some of the parts are going to be a challenge to find - especially the Evaporator. You will need an aftermarket evaporator with the standard flared fittings. In-fact everything that you will be buying should have the flared fittings. The stock evaporators were aluminum and featured a good -but proprietary expansion valve. The existing Condenser and Evaporator are going to be loaded with 30+ year old Mineral Oil that has varnished and become contaminated - THIS is why you replace them. Any PAG oil that mixes with Mineral Oil will gel, I have done it on the bench and seen it with my own eyes. Besides this unholy mixture certainly will have poor effects and cooling performance when subjected to extreme heat and pressure as the AC is functioning. Here is a list to get you started: Evaporator Expansion valve or consider having a custom line made to handle a Orifice Tube. Replaces copper High Pressure line in the dash.... Condenser Pressure switch Dryer/Receiver Rebuilt stock compressor or one from any Nissan/Datsun vehicle with a L-28 motor. However the fitting configuration WILL be different. 9oz. PAG oil (50% in a clean, rebuilt compressor. Save the other 50% for first time charge via low pressure side). 12 volt 'Pusher' fan for Condenser - R134 has higher head pressure and with 110 deg. in Tucson, you need as much air as possible flowing over the Condenser. You will need to have the Low Pressure and High Pressure rubber hoses refitted with new R134 hose (not cause they might leak, but because they're Old!). There are AC shops around that will make up hoses for you for ~$100 using your original fittings. You must first mark the 'clocking' or position of the fittings so they will match back up to the compressor. **Having new AC hose made up is where you could change compressors from different models and use the new hose to 'adapt' back to the car. Two other changes that you should absolutely consider are: 1.) Taking opportunity to do some R&R on the AC Plenum when replacing the Evaporator. 2.) Changing the Heater Core. There is no better time than NOW to change the heater core. As you get into this project there will be other little areas that we can discuss in greater detail. Just PM me or post back to this Thread.

A well placed refrigerator box will save you a bunch of consternation. When you are all finished 90 percent of the debris gets folded up with the cardboard...

Could they be sacrificial Zinc? Like a boat motor??

OK, I finally received the 8mm terminals I was looking for and finished up my "Fused Links" as replacements for the P.I.T.A. fusible links. Like I mentioned earlier it is a simple solution that allows you to keep everything looking stock and not hack up your harness. The hardest thing is finding a reliable source for 8mm female spade terminals. Initially, I used 25 and 30 Amp blade fuses but will be moving to the appropriate sizes once I confirm them - and I'll update this post. One source is atlanticzcar. So what I did was make pigtails in red and black to match the original fusible link colors on my Z. I placed std size female spade terminals on the fuses , then I used shrink tubing to protect and dress it up. On the other ends I used the 8mm female spade terminals and placed them into the housings. Please see the related pics. What is important is to keep the concept of the fusible link intact. I believe that blade fuses - sized on the conservative side, will provide the same function - to protect the downstream circuitry. Blade fuses appear to be quicker on the draw when a problem arises. It is important to note that if a fusible link or fuse is popping, then you must dig in and find out the root cause of the short. Clever fusible link solutions (including this one) will not repair the problem, just change how it is presented. Placing larger Amp fuses will only melt your harness and possibly burn-up your ride. We'll see how it goes...

It could be magnet holders for those Fuel Miser dodads..

Use 3M double sided moulding tape. Yes to dust and H2O getting in, but really not an issue. I do not believe that they would fly off of your Z, it is not aircraft carrier thrust:)...but who cares...with 400hp, you should be worried about other stuff flying off.

Nice, I have an '09 Altima too - something else to look forward to (although not as strict as CA).

When you are done, make sure the linkage is oriented properly! Place only the nuts on the wiper stems and mark with a silver Sharpe pen. Turn on the wipers and ensure that the mark is moving across the windshield properly (counter clockwise when looking out from the inside of the car). This little sanity check will prevent you from inadvertently having your wiper arms drag across the cowl -messing up your paint (and possibly your fingers!).

I bought my replacement seat foams and leather covers from MSA (Look in my Albumz in my Signature for pics). I know that the Banzai stuff is top notch - in fact everything from Mike McGinnis is of high quality including his customer service. Now, I am 190.5cm tall and I did encounter the seat height issue, but I believe that this was because I had also replaced the springs in the seat frames. So, I am now in the process of trimming approx. 2.5 centimeters off if the seat foams to account for the variations in height. I am still VERY happy with my seats though. I would suggest that you get some Recycled Felt Jute from your upholstery shop and use that as a replacement for the ancient organic jute between the seat foam and straps/springs (which ever you have). Side Note: When you remove the old organic jute used by Nissan, it will remove the "Classic Z Car Smell" from your Z. Everyone reading this knows what I am talking about.

I would say you are doing exceptional to have those numbers with that many miles... My engine has maybe 300 since rebuild. I did R&R on the entire harness and every component, but I could still have bad TTS and WTS - Thanks that is good advice. I will also go over my vacuum too. It is going to be a busy Memorial Day Weekend..

True... MMM...Blue Bonnets, Blue Bell Ice Cream....and Sausage, but not Sausage Ice Cream.. But wait..... Nah too salty. :classic:

Take the plugs loose from the underside of the dash pull through to engine side. Lube up the connectors with some silicone "Tire Shine" oil and slowly squeeze them through the grommet. Clean with Circuit Cleaner, plug back into receptacle under the dash. While you are at it, replace all of your fuses and clean your fuse box - you will be right there anyway.....

I considered this as well, but in the end I just left it off - primarily because of the extreme heat here in Texas will make the adhesive give way. It will suck to have your nice new interior done and then the trim fall off from the heat and be ugly..

This great news! I am still going through mine. I have installed a new Distributor and set the timing, now I am checking and adjusting everything else. My Z runs pretty well, its just that I believe it is too rich and I really do not feel that it is as "nimble" as I remember it to be...maybe because I am 75lbs heavier now . I am working through all of the write ups from Atlantic Z Club. I will be looking over the TPS and the Air-Bypass. rcb280z, can you recall the number of turns (from bottom out) on the Air Bypass screw that put you in the sweet spot to pass your smog?? Thanks

I am still working on this one guys....got some parts on the way...will update soon.

Congrats! That is great news! Ten years ago I bought a AC Oil Injector that allows just about any liquid to be added to the AC system. The tool holds approx. 2 oz and a weee bit of dye. These cost about $30 BTW: I am jealous about your cruising the Colonial Parkway....nice.

Thanks man, I will post more soon.

That is fantastic! So now that you have tasted victory, perhaps you could list the steps you took to remedy the issue. I am betting there are a bunch of others out there with similar problems. I know I am interested - even though I am in Texas I still would like to have my Z running as clean as possible. Congratulations again

I found the easiest way to simply remove the connector from the Cold Start Valve and apply 12 volts to it via test leads from the battery. Activate it three or four times and you are done. Don't forget to reconnect the Cold Start Valve connector when you are done. So to answer your questions: 1: No the polarity will not matter. 2: No you do not have to remove the Cold Start Valve. Fuel purged into the intake from the above method will not be a problem. It will only be an ounce or so.

So I have been reading (and trying to help) some of our Zed-brethren with various electrical issues and while I was at a visit to Harbor Freight today I picked up a Cable Tracker circuit tester. This jewel works in two ways, one by std. Continuity Testing and second by sending a Trace Signal down a circuit that is picked up by the receiver. The Trace Signal is pretty cool because unlike continuity testing, it is 'active' and you can follow a circuit with the receiver until it drops indicating an open circuit. I believe that this would work well with a multimeter for clearing up some of the mystery wiring we have been encountering. Best part is that this tool is $19 (probably cheaper with the 20% coupon they have available). Harbor Freight generally has a 20% off coupon in the back of car mags, although I found mine in a Smithsonian. I thought I would put this one out there. I found it useful - maybe you will too.

Can you manually turn the motor when the transmission is in neutral? Can the car be pushed (like to be push started) when it is in neutral? From reading it looks like you have the started issue licked. Now it is time to start looking at the more serious issue of why the motor will not turn freely...