ZCurves

Do you notice any particular odor? Oil will be very acrid and heavy. Coolant will be kind of 'sick-sweet' almost like maple syrup. I agree with Darom that it is probably the T-Stat housing...Let us know what you find.

I think it's cool, but it would be nice to include a 'Datsun' Logo in there somewhere or make the 'Z' bigger. my 2¢

Second that!

Ahhh, I understand now. Grant look at my Albumz (link below). There are plenty in a section called 'In The Beginning...' . I have just about everything that you would need -including the deck. Let me know... Direct: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/album.php?albumid=293&attachmentid=43629 http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/album.php?albumid=293&attachmentid=43630

Here are complete repair instructions from a club member who goes by the handle 'PALLADIN'. Excellent write up with examples and part #'s. I am going to upload this to the Downloads are as well... If anyone knows who Palladin is, tell him Thanks! Enjoy. Heater Valve Replacement.pdf

Here are mine. MSA Leather and Foam. Now that they have been in the car (and Texas heat), the leather has relaxed and conforms nicely. Most of the wrinkles have gone. Had to adjust for height, but I am VERY pleased with them.

Grant, I need more information to help you out.

Fantastic effort!! Keep up the good work & keep posting pics!!

Ditto.

Well, it looks like you will have to replace both Frame Rails and maybe the Passengers Floorboard. There is also patch work to be done on above the Radius Arms which is typical of a Z in your climate. Have you looked at the other trouble areas (Under rear deck, Battery Try, Dog legs, Rockers, Radiator Support, behind Tail Lamps, etc.). I guarantee you that there is more rust (but you covered the most critical areas). Are any other potential project Zcars available for consideration ($$$ vs. Rust vs. Time)???? I just want to make sure that you aren't blinded by feelings of "I could fix this". I would say that this Z is worth $800 - $1000 or cheaper if you can get it. You said you realize what you are getting into and have a generous budget. So, If you have looked and there is no alternative Z that would make a better project car and you are comfortable, I say make your best deal and go for it. You will have more than enough support here on this forum. Keep us posted and include Pics!!

I used Prothane. I also used Anti-Seize compound mixed with the silicone supplied with the kit - I have been VERY satisfied so far. Just take your time and have a lot of shop towels to wipe your hands with.

This is excellent advice. This will save you a lot of frustration. Been there, done that..

I hope it was "Driving". Mine was "I gotta clean all of this crap outta my garage", followed by, "Where the F* did all of this crap come from?"

I've had the same experience! Always a pleasure.

Jkesse01, I have one on my 78 parts car and I'll hook you up if you want, just pm me. Can you take a pic?

Ditto. I also placed a few cc's of oil in each cyl and poured a qt of 'Engine Honey' over the cam. Unplug the coil wire and crank for a few seconds at a time until you see oil pressure come up on the dash. Plug in the coil wire and enjoy the smell. You'll see what I mean... Take it easy for the first 500 miles, then change your oil/filter and enjoy the ride.

You have a hinge that has seized probably due to rust. You have to lube the roller when you lube the hinge when you do yearly maintenance. If your hinge has a worn flat spot on the roller, then the hinge/detent assembly must be replaced. The roller must be free to, well...Roll. That is why you have to replace. There are plenty of these around. I may have one, but you can ask the forum...

Zedy, Where did you pick up the magnets?

First: Download the Fuel Injection Bible from the Members\Downloads section of this forum. Second: Follow the Link http://www.mediafire.com/?y2x2e66oh939z9t to download the 1978 280Z Factory Service Manual. Study the EFI Manual and debug one part at a time. Post Questions. We will all help you.

Check out http://www.zcarsource.com/. They are an advertiser on this forum and they have plenty of goodies. Fuel sending units for '77-'78 are real hard to find. Let everyone know where you end up finding one!

A while back, I posted about using aluminum foil to replace the chrome trim on the door panel.

That is weird indeed! I have never seen a dual setup like that. Here is the deal, assuming the AC system is charged and the Compressor will engage when the unit is turned on, then you could try to unplug the switch on the Drier first and see if the compressor continues to function. Next do they same thing with the other switch on the hard-line and see what happens. Look at the compressor clutch. Is it engaging when one of the switches is disconnected? Does the AC cycle on and off? What I think happened is in the past, someone added the hard-line with a fitting as a repair. The original drier did not have the pressure switch port in that configuration either. If I am not mistaken, the Z only had a pressure switch on the drier. The ZX had the pressure switch on the hard-line, so it's presence baffles me. These switches may be wired in parallel which would make one or the other redundant. Once your detective work is done, you should only leave one functional. Detach the other or plug it.

Muchas Gracias, Senior EScanlon!

I think that it is a great idea. The young lady in the Z obviously shows her good taste in cars.

No, they will work fine with a 280z. I used them on mine and they're nice and firm. So people have noticed that the cushion is a little taller than stock - I think that I have that problem too. But I also replaced the springs in the seat bottom and as a result I will be trimming a little off of the bottom cushion to account for the extra height. Regardless, the MSA kit is well done and the leather kit is superb! See my seat pics in my gallery. Just take your time doing the install.