ZCurves

I used to have an '81 Turbo - like 25 years ago - so I am going to throw this one out there....Does the '83 have a Crank Angle Sensor? It seems that was a problem for me many moons ago when I had an S130 and might be worth a look.

Post the number from it and I'll see if i have one.

This is not a good idea, you'll be inviting more problems than you will be solving...

NAPA had the larger hoses that I used for the Vapor Tank - Those worked out perfectly! Just take the OEM hoses to NAPA or Oreilly's for a matchup.

I have some of the female terminals (same size as on the fusible links - I believe). I will send you some if you PM me your address. How many do you need, I'll see what I can do...

Yes the folks at Nissan have too much time on their hands - and plenty of creativity. See the Nissan Leaf 'Pickup' Project Car.

If there were a blockage, I am thinking that you would have ~35 psi on one side of the blockage and lower pressure on the other - especially when there is demand from the fuel system. What you could do is place a pressure gauge inline under the hood to keep tabs on the pressure. At the same time, keep a timing light in the car. When there is a engine stall, you can immediately check the fuel pressure reading and crank to check for a spark. You should be able get some results that could take you in a more definative direction for troubleshooting.

I had been experiencing the exact same scenario, I changed the TIU, Coil, Plugs, Wires, Cap. Tested everything and still could not figure it out. Suspecting a Vapor Lock issue on the rail, I decided to go to the newer aluminum fuel rail setup and reduce/eliminate vapor lock as a variable. While doing all of this and installing new injectors, I discovered that my #1 injector had failed - but that would not have killed the engine just made it lope. While changing the fuel filter, I noticed that it had come apart internally (see other thread) and so what I believe I was facing was a combination of intermittent fuel blockage which caused a vapor lock. This may not be your issue, but it is damn similar, especially if you have checked for spark and looked over everything else. So you might want to replace the fuel filter (buy a good one) and see if that doesn't change things. Please post what you find out....

I am just going to start changing mine every Spring with an OEM filter. Even though I put few miles on the Z every year, there is certainly some causality between ethanol and adhesive/seal failure on fuel system parts.

I second that! Talk about 'two degrees of separation', very sad. Great News for Keytruda though. I work at a large cancer institute in Houston, I am sure we'll be seeing use of it soon. Melanoma is a terrible form of cancer.

Agreed. I will take another good look and see if I can find a P/N. It did have 'FLOW' stamped in black on the side, we'll see what turns up.

The latter part of your response is the point of the post -- including the discomfort.

One thing that I had going for me is that when I restored the Z, I placed a clear Fram fuel filter between the tank and the Fuel Pump. I had the tank 'Sloshed' and coated, but I wanted to make sure that nothing would contaminate all the new components down line. This is probably why the Cheap-Azz filter in the pic is relatively clean. Can you imagine the mayhem if there had been a bunch of particulate in the system?? I encourage everyone to install a clear filter right off the tank.

It will be interesting to see what's inside. Surely Nissan would be the premium. Fingers crossed. Try to post pics.

I sure hope not! Those are problems none of us need.

Yep TomoHawk, that one is next!

So in the process of converting to a custom fuel rail and changing out injectors, I was changing my fuel filter. When I got the filter loose it was rattling around and I am thinking crap, this might be the culprit of some of the fuel issues that I have been having for fricken forever. So I cut it open only to find out a small Chump-Azz filter that had come loose from the fitting. I believe that this was a Fram, but I am not certain. What pisses me off is that I don't go cheap on this kind of stuff - it is worth it to spend the $$ on good filters. Every one of you is familiar with the Z's fist size filter and you might think that surely it is stuffed full of pleated filter paper giving you full protection AND of course it is not going to come apart causing a blockage to flow. Check out the pics to appreciate my anger!! The first pic shows the cheap paper element and the exit to the Fuel Rail (red arrow) that was undoubtedly being intermittently blocked. The second pic shows that even the bottom plate of the cheap paper element came loose. The adhesive that they used completely failed. So what is the purpose of this rant? Well I think it would be a good exercise to have a couple members of the forum split open a few different filters to help identify which one(s) to avoid and of course get a list of truly high quality filters. But before you comment - split open a filter to make sure you weren't duped as I was.

Muchas Gracias. I may visit and take pics. Yellow78 - I have some bumpers, PM if you want to talk. I am local.

I used this technique a couple of years ago (See post # 5). Turned out fantastic!

Ha ha ha!!! ahhh goodtimes.

cengland, What DOES work? Do the dome lights work? Do you get the buzzer before attempting to start? After you look at what FastWoman has recommended - Check and then replace ALL of the fuses in the Fuse Block. Inspect ALL of the connections going into the terminal block on the firewall (it is white plastic) and is located under the dash on the passengers side. Also make sure that the big fat white wire is firmly attached to the Pos. side of the battery - this one supplies juice to the EFI system. Finally, add the Year and VIN to a signature line when you post. That will help us all in finding the correct solution for your Z. Good luck - let us know what you find.

I am sooo jealous.

I would try to work the Brake Shoe adjusters in to provide some clearance. You have opened the bleeder right? Doesn't the drum have the little threaded holes for a bolt to be run in on? If so, this works like a puller with the bolts pushing the drum out. Worst case, you could disconnect the brake hardline going to the cylinder AND then disconnect the cylinder itself. Get a big puller and start banging and pulling...

Thanks for the information, I already have the FJ3's that I was just going to install in the stock manner, but after seeing all of this work I believe that I will get moving on this. I'll look forward to the pics. If you're ever in town again, maybe we can have a Shiner Bock!