ZCurves

Perhaps you could find a brass fitting that would fit the Drier in which you could thread to fit the Pressure Switch?? Ultimately you could take your old Drier to a parts house and try several different kinds of pressure switches until you made a match, then install in the new Drier. It is important not to open your new Drier until time for install as it will begin to 'accumulate' moisture from the environment. The pressure switch only needs to be two pole.

78. You can look at FSM and Fiche for any differences. We could weld up anything that is unused at my brothers shop.

You could replace the Pilot bearing & service the Clutch fork. Just HOW OLD is your Slave, Clutch and Throwout Bearing?? Now is the time my brother.

Nissan engineers put evap. tanks in there for a reason. No one will notice what you put in once it is sealed up. Replacing it will allow it to function as intended, further eliminate fumes and keep you from being a source of wildfires this December :laugh: . Call me this afternoon if you would like my tank.

Zedy, I must protest! Your garage is entirely too neat and clean!! It is even color coordinated!! You would die if you saw mine! I think you need a neon beer light.

Sorry Julio . Fearing just that, I bought four 'Pool Noodles' to use as bumpers along the side of the Z when it is parked in the garage. We'll see how it goes.

Arne, shouldn't 'Pay It Forward' be it's own Sub Forum? Perhaps AC/Heating too... (sorry for the hijack).

Eastwood sells a sprayer kit that screws into the can (Item #20441). There is an extension rod that enables you to spray way into the blind spots I mentioned before (Item #29836). You can also get the plugs for any access holes you create (Item #16004). For around $100 you will have your Z pretty well protected. This is what I did and I am extremely pleased with the results. BTW -The sprayer kit can be cleaned for use another time or sold on eBay.

I thought that I would pass along this deal: Harbor Freight has their Fuel Injection Tester for $16.99. I am going to get one tomorrow. http://www.harborfreight.com/fuel-injection-pump-tester-92699.html

Retake the picture, BUT this time use a Sharpie and draw a box with measurements. I have a 78 parts car that might be a donor. I will ship you the piece if you pay shipping + beer money.

Is this what you are talking about?? They have a 240Z in their gallery. http://www.slidingragtops.com/ http://www.slidingragtops.com/uploaded/images/Gallery/72%20240Z%20with%20ragtop.jpg I personally would never cut my roof, BUT if you already have a 'Cheesy' sunroof from the 70's, 80's -THIS would be a great upgrade!

While you are working on it, inspect the play in your Inner and Outer Tie Rods and Lower Ball Joints. When re-assembling make sure to follow the Torque-Specs from the FSM !

Doesn't look too bad (so far). I ran into the same problem under my fenders. You can fix the external rust easy enough, but it is difficult to get protection inside the upper frame and other 'blind' areas. One thing that I did was inject Eastwood Heavy Duty Anti Rust into the upper Frame Cavity. You can spray forward thru the opening near the Red Circle on the pic and then spray back toward the firewall by drilling an access hole here (Green Circle). You can use the Eastwood Heavy Duty Anti Rust in any internal body cavity especially the rockers, inside frame rails and above wheel wells. I would use POR-15 for all other areas that you can see and touch. Here is a link: http://www.eastwood.com/ew-heavy-duty-anti-rust-32oz.html

Post some pics of this ride! (Maybe from the show!) I wanna see all of it. Don't forget to upload pics to your 'Garage'. Oh yeah, if anyone gives you any sheot over the engine, tell them to kiss your AZZ.

Don't forget about the Fuel Injection Bible! You can download a copy of it from the downloads section. It covers all of the EFI components and has troubleshooting too.

Do you have a spare FPR that you could try? Check for Vac leak at the FPR? I believe that an FPR is around $50 at Advance Auto Parts.

Yep, warped Rotors. Rebuild Calipers, Replace Rotors. I say replace Rotors rather than have them machined because - They're cheap to replace and machining may provide a temporary solution, but because they have been 'Thinned', they tend to warp again. Don't forget new shims and lube the calipers so the pads can move.

I did the same thing. Used Meguiars plastx and used a buffing wheel from Harbor Freight. It turned out so well, I used the same technique to polish the turn signals and side markers too. You have to be careful with the buffing wheel because it will grab the part and fling it.

Same Here! I am going to shave some foam from mine prior to the Great Texas Zcar event... The quality is all there though, I am very happy with the MSA Kit.

Bench vise and a plumbers (pipe) wrench. Don't squeeze the Strut Tube, just secure the bottom in the vise. Also, you could use a propane torch to kiss the top of the Strut Tube to expand the treads just before using the pipe wrench. When you are re-assembling use some Anti-Seize on the new Gland Nut.

Yeah, you should be fine as long as it is not leaking. I would flush it real well though. I remember when I was converting mine, that the old refrigerant oil had turned brown and nasty -generally gunked up everything. I would like to see some picks of the Evaporator Core with the modern expansion valve -that would be interesting.

Not sure if this will help on a 260, but in a 280 there is a cluster of wires and connectors down by the pass floorboard that get corroded and loose. Have look, clean etc.

No great plans can be done without the consumption of BEER:beer:. Therefore I propose that we gather at The Saint Arnold Brewery in Houston, Texas to discuss the 'Texas Z Car (and foreign car) Rally' further. How about in a couple of weeks on a Saturday??? Who can turn that down?? (shameless plug : http://www.saintarnold.com/ - cuz I luv's me some Saint Arnold's;)). Are there any Z Club of Houston members reading??

Here are Part Numbers and Sources for modern Evaporators, Expansion Valves and Accum/Driers. Heater Valve repair kit too!! Remember to order Flared Fittings only. On the Drier you will need to break away the mounting bracket that is included so that you can use the one on your Z. Use a new Condenser. If you are using R134a, then you might add a electric fan in front to lower the compressor head pressure (Colder AC, Cooler Engine). Evaporator: http://www.rwiamerica.com/ShopByVehicle.epc?q=1977-NISSAN/DATSUN---80z-L6--753cc--.8l--F/i--Vin--L--8e&yearid=1977%40%401977&makeid=60%40%40NISSAN%2FDATSUN%40%40B&modelid=12594%40%40280Z&engineid=6557@@L6-2753cc+2%2E8L+F%2FI+Vin+L28E@@6557&catid=6@@Heating ~or~ http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/16-7520 Expansion Valve & Accum/Drier (USE FLARED FITTINGS!!): http://www.onlineaccompressors.com/addtocart/1982_Nissan/280ZX/A-C_Expansion_Device/60-40201.html Heater Valve Repair Kit from NAPA: Part No. BK 6601000

Congratulations! But with today's weather in the Bay Area of 75/54, shouldn't you be riding with the windows down?? I am very jealous of left coast weather .