ZCurves

Reading from Right to Left, the sticker states (approximately) "Refer to the Owners Instruction Manual, The Z wears Steel Wheels with Radial Tires". If I can get a hold of my friend, I will post a more accurate translation.

I would grab the bumpers anyway. Someone will certainly be looking for a pair in the future! I would use car removing the rubber as they can e fragile and might tear easily!

McBain, Welcome! You are in the right place for help. When you make a post, be sure to include the year and type of your Z and include a picture of the problem (if possible). Pictures of your Z are always awesome too since we all live vicariously through one another. So, if I understand your question correctly, a previous owner (PO) lowered the front strut (Cut Down) and you have found out that it is bent. Correct? 1. Check the Strut Cartridge? If the Cartridge is bent, then simply replace the strut. 2. If the Strut Housing is bent, you will need change both the Cartridge and Strut Housing. If you can provide more details about your Z, then we can get you better information. You need to search the forum for a FSM (Factory Service Manual) to get started. Remember, there are no dumb questions - So start asking and we'll get you in the groove in no-time.

Where are you guys (gals) ordering the Eiko A-72 bulbs from?? I am lazy, thanks.

If any of you earlier model guys want to go to the two strut setup, I have the inner mounts on my old parts car - First come first serve. If you live in Houston, come a get em. If you live else where, just pay postage. PM me to connect the dots.

Looks Good, I'll PM you.

When I worked my tank over, I pressure washed the inside and used this product from Eastwood - looks like melted marshmallow. After meticulously following the instructions everything went well - except when the coating began to soften and come loose inside the tank. I picked up another tank and repeated the cleaning process, EXCEPT for the coating. I finished by putting in a gallon of Phosphoric Acid, let it react and then rinsed it out, followed with Acetone. I then put a filter before the Fuel Pump to catch any debris that I didn't get out and a new filter up front. Coating is not always necessary, if you do not have a load of rust chunks, then you are wasting time and money not to mention risking the loss of your tank! It is not something that you have to do, simply because you have an old car. Just clean the tank out. Flushing out a 30+ year old tank is a great idea and everyone should consider doing it. Water is heavier than fuel and will -over time begin to collect on the bottom of the tank. Every couple of years you should pull the drain plug on the outside bottom and drain Accumulated Dirt and Water.

Wow, I have not seen that much rust either! It pays to change the filter!

Has anyone had a moment to check their Parts booty? I would appreciate anyones help...

I think that a Nissan V8 would be very interesting rather than an American one. A big Q Series V8 from an Infinity would be sweet, it would look amazing under the hood with all of the Nissan Branding, etc...

That is a pretty dawg gone good idea! I mean you could get one of these deals for the cost of repairs for sure! It looks like it could be a very unique customization. If I lived in So. Cal., I would definitely consider one, but in Houston - no way! Too Hot and Too Humid!

Was this coolant from when you opened the cap? With the cap off wash everything off and blow dry with compressed air. Look for any cracks in the neck on the top tank of the radiator. You could also take the car to a shop that has a pressure tester and see what bubbles up. This still might not be your problem, but it is starting to look that way.

It would take you forever to get the curvature correct with a hand formed piece of metal - and then it still would not be right. Follow Carl's advice below and get a donor roof. I know that you are looking for a local one, but I have one in Houston if you run out of luck.

Welcome to the family... Here are my 2 cents... A metal 'shrill'/metal vibrating noise when car is parked or while accelerating. Wasn't as bad before, but has gotten progressively louder. Does the sound stop when you engage the clutch? If it is from the front of the engine, check the Belt Tensioner Wheel. The bearings give out and can make that sound. Check the Water Pump and Alternator for the source. Oil pressure gauge dips to near 0 when parked or at a stop, but moves back to the middle of the gauage when driving. Do you have plenty of oil? Replace Oil Pressure Sender on side of engine. Consider replacing the Oil Pump as the springs in it may be fatigued (this is not likely though ). Water leaks into passenger side when it rains. Seems to be coming from the top left side of the passenger feet area. (Behind the glovebox-ish) You will need to remove the Blower Fan Assy from under the dash and replace the seal that presses against the bottom of the Cowl. You probably should also open up the Cowl and check for rust and debris. There is a thumping noise when I hit bumps coming from the rear of the vehicle. The car also rocks side to side when I hit a bump at high speeds. I think these two are connected. The bumping noise can come from two places: Broken Differential Mount. Wornout Shock Cartidges From what you describe I am betting on the later. Check all of it anyway. Now find an FSM (download or email me), take a deep breath and relax. You have plenty of help from all of the fine folks here.

I' am with Mr. Blake. It gets hot in 'Bama just as it does in Houston. I would not go any higher than 180. You might want to check your Rad Cap and hoses while you are at it. The problem you describe might also be caused by the coolant system not being able to adequately pressurize.

Jeffg, Tommys - we'll need to move to a PM.

Those are good questions. I would definitely be painting them, I was thinking a satin black, but now that you have mentioned it I might consider the Argent Gray Metallic that I used to paint the Taillight finisher and the Front Grillz. I believe that the Argent Gray Metallic paint made by Duplicolor is correct BUT I defer to people like Carl Beck et. al. to make sure. Here is the link to the thread: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showpost.php?p=90742&postcount=5

I need a couple of good Wiper Arms. I have searched this site and found a few old posts so I thought I would raise my hand again on this... I have a '78 and would like to locate a nice pair of Wiper Arms. I saw some on http://www.new-datsun-parts.com but would rather not drop $180 on a pair just yet. My drivers side arm has wobbled the mount into an oval and now cannot be properly tightened. A good Drivers and Passengers pair would be great if some one could help me out, maybe we could make a deal.

I am wrapping up my interior on my '78 and it is looking like I need some of the screws for the A-Pillars, Dash Finisher, and the two long ones on the front of the Console. I would appreciate being pointed to a source or if you have some, give me a shout.

I would probably go ahead and get it then. As time rolls, even Z's with no rust will be difficult to find (let alone a Black Pearl). You already have a good example of what it could eventually become. Besides you have all of us rootn for you!

If you have the space to store it and could take your time working it over, it might be worth it. It has more than $500 in parts value for sure!

Well, PWD's idea does have merit, but I am not sure how well it will keep the metal from separating from the plastic. I believe that the best way to protect it might be with some wax - keeping it clean and free of corrosion. As for the door panels, the chrome comes loose from the constant abrasion of your clothes from getting in and out of the Z, coupled with the temperature variations and age. I am in the process of re-covering my door panels so that won't be a problem any longer.

Have you thought about Urethane? It is more forgiving that Fiberglass. Years ago I had a Fiberglass AD on my Z and was always catching it on curbs, parking stops, etc. Every time I cracked it, I would have to repair, paint - then repeat. The Urethane flexes more, but performs very well. Just my two cents.

I know there are a lot of opinions about the different weatherstrip kits. All I offer is what I have experienced. I bought the Precision kit from PSP.com. I thought it was of super quality - except for the Rear Outer Hatch seal. I am still looking for one that does not cause the 'slamming' issue. The doors fit fairly well - I did have to adjust the strikers though. Everything else was fine.

I have Six in Houston, Tx. I also have a load of OEM hubcaps and centers as well as two complete sets of OEM Aluminum wheels. If you (or anyone) is interested, let me know -I just would like a fair price (no gouging). Shipping can't be that bad. Let me know if you interested.