ZCurves

VERY nice welds! I am truly impressed!!

Yep, sounds like the bearings have seen better days. You might also be looking at a Spindle Pin job when you get into the the bearings

There you have it! (and I was thinking that I was the only guy who had used lumber on his car )

Very nice and not one wrinkle;)

I inherited a problem like that when I picked up my current Z a decade ago. Mine was more caved-in, like the PO ran over a Stop Sign or something. It ripped some of the spot welds out on the pass side and pushed the floor up. What I did to repair it was to buy a length of ALL-Thread, Two big washers, Corresponding nuts and a 2x4. Sounds wacked out... But wait. I drilled a Hole in the floorboard the size of the ALL-Thread and another hole in the 2x4. I placed the 2x4 under the car with one end on a Frame Rail and the other end sticking out by the Rocker Panel - like a pedal. Next I ran the ALL-Thread thru the Floorboard and the 2x4 and took up the slack with the Nuts and Washers so that the 2x4 was tight against the bottom of the car. With all of this done, I then could push down on the 2x4 thereby pulling the floor back into the original position. I might have had to reposition the 2x4 a couple of times. When the Z was repainted, the body shop repaired all of the spot welds and holes I made and sealed it up with seam sealer and paint. I am hoping that your Ooops was less severe than that. Without seeing the damage, I think perhaps you could pop it back with a large Heavy hammer until it gets close to being flat. Then you could get a flat piece of metal or 2x4 and place it on a Jack, snugging it up to the Floorpan and then just finish it out with the hammer. The metal/2x4/Jack setup would act as an dolly and prevent the metal from stretching the opposite way. You might also try my more scientific method I described first, then buy a plug and seal up the hole top and bottom when you are done. If any of this makes you hesitate, go to a body shop to be safe. Ahhh the many uses of a 2x4 in auto repair! Good times!

Thanks - you're a gem!

Inf & Jack, you are correct. I had that problem with an old Cadillac, the inspector was a real arsehole - super critical. I did find out that if your car is smoking too much, they give you some crap. Not too many problems with the Z though (it's all rebuilt).

Sarah, I know that you described this process somewhere but I can't find it. Please re-iterate (give me a link). I would be much obliged.

That is a good point, but since the smog pump had been disconnected for the last 10 years and it is no longer required by law, it seems more prudent to remove it. A well tuned car, running today's modern fuels is likely to be easier on the environment than when the Z was new. Here in TX, if your HC's are too high, you don't pass inspection no matter how old the car.

Are you going to use later model cyl? I would, if you don't mind bending the hard lines a wee bit. No one is going to look at your wheel cylinders anyway. Save some $$$.

The old school flasher units required a higher resistance, since LED have practically none there is a faster flash. Make sure to replace both the Turn-Signal Flasher relay and the Hazard Flasher relay with current electronic units.

I was originally going to put LED's in my Z, but I just liked to originals so I stuck with them. So, I will make a heck of a deal for my entire set -just maybe get a few $$$ back out of my original investment. I have the entire set excluding running lamps and headlamps for a '78 Z. So, if anyone is interested please PM me.

Yes, the rod is supposed to move back and forth. Just clean up the rod and spring and make sure the passages are not plugged up with crud. TIPZ: When working with brake lines and fittings on old cars, chase the threads with a TAP/DIE to clean them. This will make for a tighter fit during re-assembly. Check the the Flared Fittings and buff with sandpaper if dirty. You can use Lawn Trimmer line to clean the insides of Hard Lines. Use only wrenches designed for Flared Fittings. Never leave Brake Cleaner or any solvent in the system -its hard on the seals. Use compressed air to clear the crud, followed by clean Brake Fluid. Finally, when you are completely done working on the car, rinse everything off with some soapy water. Brake Fluid and Paint do not get along very well. I am attaching a pic of the Proportioning Valve from the 78 FSM to give you a visual, I suggest you find the corresponding one for your year model. Good Luck!

I know that you are in Houston - you could get a rebuilt one from Advance for ~130.00. The Proportioning Valve is not a big deal. It just is a PITA to loosen the hard lines. I can assist if you would like and help out with the Booster transplant - just PM me.

NO! Look for any other easy MODs to do as you reassemble! :classic:

Here are my thoughts - As you probably already know, the Master Vac (Booster) is there to assist in building brake pressure to stop the car -making it easier on you and safer. From what you have described, it sounds like your Master Vac is just plain old and beginning to fatigue. Consider this: The Brakes ARE the most important part of any car. You obviously have a lot of blood, sweat and $$$ invested too. These cars are 30+ years old and I firmly believe that it would be prudent for everyone to really inspect their brake system -not just the linings, but ALL of it. You have already performed a crucial test and it has explained why your pedal is hard and it takes considerable effort to lock up the rear. So with all of that said, I would: Replace the Master Vac and the Vacuum check valve. Inspect Master Cyl. for leaks or Pressure Bleed (Pedal Fade). Clean the Proportioning Valve. Inspect the Calipers, check Pistons for smooth movement and leaks, Check Pads. Inspect the Rear Cylinders for smooth movement and leaks, Check Linings. Pressure Bleed and then Bleed it again. NOTE: If your Brake Fluid is dark, then replace it. It is easy to do and will prolong the life of your brake system. Properly maintained brakes will protect you and your precious Z. I'll step off of my soap box now.

Bruce, FYI the Proportioning Valve is the manifold that all of the Hard Lines go to right after the MC. It is bolted to the firewall, lower left of the Master Vac. There are no wires attached to it (at least on later S30's). Your MC suggestion is correct and good advice!

I have a couple of Aluminum louvers similar to what mlaw7 has on his. These louvers are needing some TLC but are workable if one is interested.

You should clean up the Proportioning Valve anyway. I am thinking that Ron is right on the money though. Make sure that the Master Cyl is installed properly and that the Rod is correctly adjusted. Question. Are you Sure that the hardlines were cleaned properly? Just asking. Sometimes when you clean everything up and put on a new Master Cyl. the pressure blows some crap loose that was way up in the line. Good luck

I found that you could put Aluminum Foil on and it looks almost OEM. Here is how (Sorry no pics to share). Tape off the door panels with painters tape leaving only the Blue Strips exposed. Apply Contact Cement adhesive on Blue Strips of the door panel and let dry. Cut long strips of Aluminum Foil (Heavy Duty is best). Apply Contact Cement adhesive to the 'Dull' side of the Aluminum Strips and let dry. Remove tape. Slowly Lay down the Aluminum Strips onto the glued surface and rub with fingers as you go. Carefully trim off the excess foil with an X-acto knife. Carefully Rub length-wise with old t-shirt to polish. Voila! Send Pics.

There was this Blueish-Turquoise color that Infinity used on the G35 and Sedan a few years ago. Very unique. I think that you might need to buy a bottle of aspirin and go look at the PPG catalog! But...Do not be afraid to ask a paint shop to spray you a few samples before you make up your mind. You can place the samples on different parts of the car and see which one flips your wig! It will definitely make you more comfortable with your decision.

I can attest to the quality of his Repro Decals and his customer service. Top Notch.

That is true. Get your count and I will go look this weekend at my spares (I keep them warehoused a few mile away). I will see how many I can come up with.

Very nice!!

Sooo you post about all of your hard work and how excited you are and then forget to post pictures!! For Shame! How can we fully share your excitement without pics?? Seriously, congrats! Savor the reward from your hardwork! Enjoy the ride. (Then start looking for something else to replace, upgrade or enhance!)