ZCurves

You might be able to 'Rent' one from your local autoparts store - And I don't mean use it and return it, just ask if they rent the tool.

Tyler, Buy the gauge, use it. When you are done put it on eBay or PM me and I'll buy it from you. I'll split your cost with you. (I really do not need one but it would be a nice to have in my toolbox)

Keep us posted. I am interested in this as I have had similar issues with my seals.

From what you have stated, here is what I think.... If your engine was smoking you would notice the Bluish-Acrid smoke (Smokey at idle = ~Rings; Smokey when you let off the pedal = ~Valves.) But this is not happening. If the engine was leaking coolant into the intake, then it would billow steam -especially when you throttle up. At idle it would look like steam from a Dry Cleaners shop.... With it being fall - my best guess is that you are getting condensation in the exhaust from the daily heat fluctuations -especially in AZ. The smoke is really steam from the condensation burning out of the hot exhaust. Has the weather been funky over there?? Another Clue for me is that you stated that you drove ~2 miles to your school when you noticed the smoke. Does the condition continue after you have driven, say for thirty minutes or longer?

Sarah, I used the Stainless Steel bolt kit from MSA and lots of Anti-Seize. Torque the new studs in and move to the next problem (opportunity). BTW: The tapping is for 'Shocking' the fused parts to help them break free. Combined with good penetrating oil and perseverance - it proves to be a good combination most of the time. Congratulations!

I have run into this several times in the past. I assume that you are talking about the No. 6 Cyl. near the firewall? It really doesn't matter... What I would suggest is to use a small sharpened chisel and then use a hammer to back the bolt out. Just start tapping with the hammer and you will get the hang of it. It will take a bit of patience to develop a technique -but the bolt will begin to move. Make sure that you use plenty of WD or PB or what ever makes you happy... How much of the stud is sticking out?? Do you have a Pic?? Good Luck!

HA Ha Ha! That is so true! That stuff keeps on going and going....

Jeff, You are a lucky dog - I am jealous. Now we need to go to Vegas!

You could probably use your other clutch, but I advise you to return the re-manufactured unit to the supplier, unless the unit came without a clutch assy. It is important that you check the compressor to make sure that it is not seized up - but that really would not have contributed to the clutch coming off since they are reverse threaded. More than likely, your AC Compressor Clutch did not have appropriate thread locking compound applied prior to being properly torqued to spec. It worked its way off (always at the most inconvenient time). Take it back and get another one. Good luck..

I've got the same problem..... Hmmmm OK, If my Z sits for longer that a day or two, I experience the exact same problem AND my Z is running rich too. (I am reading your other thread...). So we both have '78s with the same problems. I know that you will post your solution, I will do the same.....

I had the same results. What I ended up doing was ordering aftermarket headlights from eBay or Automart. The results are far better. Remember! Your time is worth something, don't use it sanding and polishing...

First, It is your car, so do with it what makes you happy. If I were going to do a color change, then it would have to be complete (engine bay, interior, rear deck). Staying with the OEM color is safer and cheaper which is what I did. I have to say that a major factor that I stayed with the original color was because I just did not want to go to all of the effort to gut my Z to that level (e.g. I was lazy). I also really like the 510 Sky Blue Metallic. I did consider doing the Electric Blue from an '05 Infiniti G35, but I liked the 510 Blue better. So, 907 Green or whatever turns you on - It is your car, do with it what makes you happy.

When I revamped my harness, i went to the parts yard and found a nice three way on a later model car and spliced it in. Remember A LOT of cars used the Bosch EFI.. Nissan, Toyota, Volvo and Mercedes - Just to get started. I found the typical two-way connectors on Ebay. Let me know if you have any questions since I all ready went through this task on my '78.. I also have a couple of spare harnesses.

I am not sure if Powder Coating would last since there is a bunch of heat where it bolts to the head. I am sure that there is a high heat coating available like a ceramic, but there may not be very good color choices. Have you thought of Anodized Aluminum? Since the Intake is Aluminum that might make a cool alternative. It can be done with some cool colors and wont be affected by the heat. Whatever you end up doing, now would be the time to mill out around the Ports and Throttle Body (if it's EFI) to increase air flow and weld up any unused fittings, etc. FWIW: I coated my Exhaust Manifold with the Eastwood High-Temp Stainless and it looks really fantastic and has stayed that way for a long time. Finally - Post Pics of before and after. We all need something to live vicariously through!!

That is a cool trick for testing in the field. 9 volts is enough to see if they are good or not. Thanks for the tip!

I found a working pair in my parts collection, but I am still interested in your extra set if you are willing to part with them. Let me know. Thanks

Hello Everyone, I originally posted this in the other forum, but thought that I would give it a shot on this side of the house. I am searching for a couple of working F.I.C.D. Magnet Valves. My car is a '78 Z and I am pretty sure that these were used on ZX, 810 and Maximas that had the L28. The F.I.C.D. valves are the two electric solenoids that actuate the vacuum for the fast Idle when the AC is on, the other feeds vacuum to the dash. Apparently one of mine has seized up and has stopped working. I would really appreciate it if any of you could hook me up! Please PM me! BTW - You can tell if you have a good one by passing 12v across the plug - Blue being Positive and Black being Negative. The valve will have a noticeable, hardy click. Thanks to everyone in advance!:classic:

Thanks for the info, but I think that I am going to see if I can round one up. I always thought that valve setup was kooky - there are more elegant ways to kick the idle up a bit. Bosch engineers should have electronically increased the idle via the EFI. Ahh woulda, coulda, shoulda.

Hello Everyone, I am searching for a couple of working F.I.C.D. Magnet Valves from a '77 - '78 Z. These are the two electric solenoids that are mounted on the passengers fender well near the Fusible Links/Relays. One is for the fast Idle when the AC is on, the other feeds vacuum to the dash. Apparently one of mine has seized up and has stopped working. I would really appreciate it if any of you could hook me up! Please PM me! BTW - You can tell if you have a good one by passing 12v across the plug - Blue being Positive and Black being Negative. The valve will have a noticeable, hardy click. Thanks to everyone in advance! :classic:

Nothing about the Belts but rather the bearing inside of the Tensioner. The bearings can Howl and the noise can travel -but this would be at the front of the engine. As for the Lucas Oil Stabilizer, it is an all oil additive that creates a Tacky Soapy Film of oil that remains on internal engine components and prevents dry starts. It also slightly increases oil pressure. It does not foam or foul the engine, it has awesome performance in high temps and engines with a lot of miles. I have used Lucas for twenty plus years in Houston where the temperature is routinely very toasty. Lucas is some Real Good stuff!

Jan, Have you made sure that the oil pump has enough pressure?? I listened to the video and from what I could tell it might be that the bearings from the Belt Tensioners for the A/C or Water Pump. These little guys can produce racket from the front of the motor when they start to go. If you have a Automotive Stethoscope, you can try to isolate the source of the sound a little better. As for the oil argument - follow the chart that was posted earlier. Generally 10w-40 is sufficient for cooler climates, but for anything over 80F - I would be running 20w-50 and substitute 1 qt with Lucas Oil Stabilizer (This is what I have done for 25 years). The engineers that designed these engines knew what they doing and took great care in putting the lubrication chart together -This is why these engines are darn near bullet-proof. Of course engines with a lot of miles on them really need a "top end" additive such as Marvel Mystery Oil or Lucas and they should have their oil changed more frequently.

What you need is this seal (see number 4 in the diagram). They are available from BD for $20.

I am with d240zx2. You should replace the roof. You can find a donor panel and have a bodyshop install. I have always thought that an electric sunroof from a Saturn would work because it is convex like the ZCar and the metal frame when welded in properly would add the needed rigidity.

Heath, I believe that I have an extra, I will check this weekend. If you are in a hurry, I would take the old hose to a junk yard and start looking at Nissan and Toyota models and compare to your hose -there is nothing special to this hose other than it is thin plastic. However, you could just get a short length of Heater Hose that will fit the HVAC housing and be done with it.

Sam, I am not sure what city that you live in, but you should shop around because I have found that prices are all over the place. I am still looking for of my old receipts to help you out. One good source is www.1800radiator.com. Your local parts house is another. I purchased the Evaporator locally, but I found one here: Part #249-293 $193.04 (http://aircomp.autoitech.com/) seems a little high. Dryer: Part #60-30571 $40 (http://www.discountacparts.com/Nissan-280Z-A_C_Accumulator_Drier-60~30571.html) Condenser: Part #SILLAC8060 $78.57 (http://www.autopartsdeal.com/catalog/?N=1684+11380+4294962110+9171) I would suggest that you purchase the Evaporator and Expansion Valve from the same place - this way you can make sure that there is a proper fit. Since the OEM Evaporator Cores are no longer available, the ones that you will encounter will have the flared Expansion Valve fitting (remember to lube up fittings with the appropriate Refrig Oil before assembly!!). DO NOT get frustrated looking for parts, we're talking about AC parts NOT Rocket Engines. MANY MANY cars used the same components and the parts ARE available. If something is not immediately available, just ask the supplier -you will be amazed... You could get creative and alter the short copper high pressure line under the dash, changing it to contain a Orifice Tube at the point where it passes through the firewall. Any AC shop that does custom hoses and lines could make up one where the line is extended to to Evaporator Core eliminating the Expansion Valve. It is important to have the Orifice Tube located at the firewall so that it can be replaced(if needed) in the future.