ZCurves

Great Idea, but I think that one of those plates is mine!

I purchased mine from MSA. Nice Quality/Fit.

Remove the Freeze Plugs (you have to anyway), flip upside down and then use a Coathanger and a magnet tool, along with the deadblow hammer.

I think that they look great! However, I would still consider getting "new" emblems if you can afford to - especially while they are still available (for the most part). This way you wont be sorry later when supplies dry up.

What are the model year applications?

Holy Toledo! For that much you could have it custom painted! Oh well -just an idea.

When you are ready to make the decals, look for a sign shop that does the "Body Wrap" like you see on delivery vehicles. they use the 3M material that can be removed later if you didn't like it. The 3M material is UV proof and easy to apply.

I do not think the Velcro trick will be very effective unless it is bonded to the body with epoxy or JB Weld. You could try to only glue "Here and There" to make removal and inspection easier in the future. JB Weld is your friend.

As a fellow Texan and neighbor. I would advise against sticking them to the floor. It is just tooo humid here in Houston and moisture is sure to find its way in and rust your baby!

Never mind... I found the answer in this post: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=7560

Imagine that! Oh well... Yeah, I looked at my seal and the Chrome Channel was normal compared to the original. Question, did you use any sealant? or go bare with the seal? I have not tackled this one yet... After all of this investigation by club members, I suggest that anyone who has a seal which the chrome channel is too wide. Return it. I REALLY appreciate MadKaw for bringing this up. Thanks... Now I guess we'll need a new post for Issues/Concerns on the rest of the rubbers.

FWIW - Do you think that the "Wider" channel might be reduced when the seal flattened out as it is installed into the frame?? This issue is pretty important to me as I have the Precision Kit and will be installing very soon. ALSO - When I spoke with Precision on the phone (6 mo's ago), the rep for Datsun/Nissan told me that they supply seals for both MSA and VB/BD. Thoughts anyone??

I would not worry about finding 'original paint'. Modern paint compounds are far superior to that which was used 30+ years ago. Your paint shop should be able to match on the 920 color code. Have them paint a couple of blanks and compare those to an area near the spare.

No problem, I am getting a quote from them at the moment. I want to get the taillight bezels and the interior door pull bezel rechromed so I'll post my findings... Perhaps everyone should start posting the quotes. It would be good comparison shopping for all of us.

Steve, the seats in these cars will roast your arse!:tapemouth After all, You do live in Houston, Texas !! (As do I) -I can hear the Ham sizzlin;). I did the MSA leather as I PM'ed to you...I am confused by the appearance of some of the other seats done with a MSA Kit. My kit was fine, perhaps it is the 240 seat covers that don't have good quality control....I don't know. In an earlier post (you'll need to search), I described getting the seat covers warm before you install. I found this essential in getting a good fit. It is inportant to also smooth out the wrinkles as you go, this will result in a proper fit. Whatever material is used, it will relax after it is installed and again when it is sat upon. I have reupholstered many seats- from a few VW's in highschool to the several Z I have had in the twenty five years since. It just takes some patience and good materials. I'd say that your approach is the right one, getting advice from everyone on this list is going to help you make an informed decision. Whatever kit you end up with, make sure that you inspect it thouroughly before going any further. After all, it is your Z and your $$$. If the seams are crappy and it has poor materials - send it back. If your are more comfortable using an Pro Upholsterer, then that is the route to go. Since you live in the same city as myself, I will be happy to assist you with whatever kit you get - I would encourage new seat foams though -and Beer. Finally, back in the 90's, I bought a set of real nice Sheepskins for my Z, cool in the summertime/warm in the winter. I loved them! Just a thought. PM me if you need help.

While looking for a place for Re-Chroming, I was told by several places that if the object being chromed was to be "Outside", that it would have to be sealed and then would have a shorter life expectancy than the traditional method......That is why I chose 4Chrome.com. Perhaps "Crap" was too strong of an adjective. Ultimately if you or anyone else is happy with the results of Spray Metalization, thats fine!

For those of you who are interested, I found a place in New York that does Plastic Rechroming. Not the Spray Metalization crap either, but the real deal. You can find them on the web at www.4chrome.com. They charge approximately $5/sq inch. which sounds hefty, but with little alternative....what cha going to do?? After spending $$$ on my Z, I just couldn't do the Chrome Paint or Spray Metalization - So I just do a little at a time...which isnt so bad.

Regardless of where you get your seat foam, it is always a good idea to replace the seat foams when getting into a seat refurb. It is well worth the time (and $$$).

You should post some pics of your car, that way everyone could chime in on what was OEM and what has been done by the previous owner. Besides, it would be fun to see the "Authoritative Pontification" begin!

If your are interested, you can come by and see what I have done with my '78. I am in the midst of re-assembly though. I live in Spring. PM me if you like.

Randy, You can use fiberglass resin to substantially reinforce the door panel. When the resin soaks into the fiberboard and sets, it becomes VERY ridgid. When you have some areas where there are fractures or missing chunks you could use pieces of 1/8" masonite to fill gaps or use fiberglass cloth. I have mixed the resin with sawdust and filled cracks with great success. It is very 'Workable' and can be sanded. The resin will also waterproof the panel, which is a bonus. If you are only repairing the bottom with the resin, you can use Polyurethane finish to seal and waterproof the remainder of the panel. Before you re-install on the door make sure that you cover the inside of the door with some heavy mil plastic as an moisture barrier.

When I talked to MSA about center caps for the Konigs, they instructed me to take a hammer and 'Crush' in the Grease Cap approx. 3/8" . I don't like the words "Crush" or "Bend" when it comes to Z's, but I did use an old set of grease caps and crushed them down to fit. Center Caps fit fine.

Seems like it would be easier to just get one from a donor. Could you post a picture of the Strut and the Bracket?? I would like to see this....

The mechanic is a MORON. He would like to get your business when your tranny fails. Whether your live in Canada or in Texas, if you place ATF in your manual tranny, you will be rebuilding it. You could try the Pennzoil synchromesh it is a good product, Lucas Oil Stabilizer is another one. I would cut the gear oil with the Lucas or Pennzoil. Regardless you are only going to postpone a rebuild. Perhaps you could buy some time to find a suitable replacement.