ZCurves

Yeess sir. Lean and Mean! BTW I will send you a list of my ECU numbers soon.

Hey! What do you mean...

Well, I prefer not to complicate things. Since my Z is largely stock, I am thinking that I would omit the original equip and go with the built in MAP on the HellFire. Perhaps you could acquire a "Best Practices" implementation guide for the HellFire. For Instance, omitting AFM, perhaps Cold-Start, etc...

I have been lurking around this thread for a while....I am pretty excited by this news. Did you mention that it uses a MAF or std. AFM???

I suggest that you download the 76 wiring diagram from our buddies at AtlanticZ. Here is a link to save you time.... http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/wiringdiagrams/76_280z_wiring.pdf You might also download the Factory Service Manual (FSM) and the Electronic Fuel Injection (Bible) there as well. There is also a cool Service Bulletin for the 1976 S30... Here is the link: http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/76sb/1976_280z_S30_Service_Bulletin.pdf

Yes, I have - it is a very nice shift knob. I have since replaced it as it did not have the shift pattern, also the wood was too light for my tastes.

Han, Can you get a hold of the wiring diagram for a 73? A lot of us here refer to AtlanticZ's techtips for reference. Here is a link: http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/wiringdiagrams/240z/1973_240z.gif

I was thinking of doing this on my stock radiator. I have been looking at the big single fan setup from a Volvo s80 and deleting the mechanical fan.

A while ago, a forum member -PALLADIN, posted a complete guide. Go here: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/attachments/interior-s30/48926d1319040885-heater-core-busted-heater-valve-replacement.pdf&ei=DK6gUsHBHMmjrQGu_YHIBg&usg=AFQjCNGAoPoxrTm0B_nc6sr011r-fU0Snw&bvm=bv.57155469,d.aWM

I will take a look at this too. It seems that when I was experiencing the problem, that I could unplug the Oil Pressure sender and the fuel pump would run. I will definitely take a second look.

That's on the menu this weekend!

Thanks everyone. I am still working on this one. I want to make sure to lick this one and post the solution for someone else in the future. 2fiddyZ: I have to admit that I have been looking to bring the Z into the 21st century and look for modern EFI management systems. Megasquirt, etc...

I have bought tires for all my rides from them for the last 20 years and had nothing but great experiences. Great customer service too. I think the 'No Interest" credit deal is fine - you just have to plan ahead and payoff early!!

Sorry for the WAAAAY late response. I was referring to a set of locking lug nuts. Picture looks great! I have the same on my Z.

I did the same and it cleared up a bunch of issues I was working over at the time.... I did throw out the 'break-off' screws and stayed with four standard phillips.

I do too!

Thank you. Easy enough to check as I have like a half dozen ECU's that I have been hoarding. I have my plate full now with Captain Obvious and zKars recommendations.

Well I guess it is time to go hunting... I just dont want to end up shooting my Z. Thanks for the tips....

Thanks Man, Just cranks - Nothing else. Wait awhile- like an hour, then it will restart. This last time it was a missing smokey mess.

I have often touted the 'Power of Many' on this site. Time after time the 'Zed Collective Conscience' has helped solve each others problems, so now I am seeking some answers... I have a stock 1978 280z that I have restored a few years ago. Everything has been fine except recently after the car gets warm (not even hot) the engine just dies. When the engine first starts, it is immediate and idles fine but is a little rich (although that may have been corrected with the recent TPS adjustment). Once the Z warms up -as in less than two miles of driving - it dies. It does not diesel or pop, which would make me think fuel or AFM. It seems more electronic as if someone disconnects the battery. This last episode, the engine did dump a bunch of fuel leading a nasty smokey death spiral -seemed to be in a 'flood-condition'. The next day she started right up only to repeat -except I left her in the driveway rather than take a chance on being forced to call Hagarty for a rescue.:mad: Using the FSM and Fuel Injection Bible -I have done the following: Replaced Ignition Module and the Keylock/Ignition switch (needed done anyway). Checked the Water Temp Sensor and Thermotime switch and made sure they are correctly plugged in. Checked the Cold Start Valve and it appears to function properly. I have adjusted the TPS to factory spec. Here is what is next on my inspection list: Check Timing. Check Fuel Pressure - even though I have installed a new fuel pump including a clear fuel filter in-line between the tank. Check Fuel Injection Relay. Check Fuel Pump Relay. Check AFM. Check ECU. Check continuity between ECU and Engine. I am even checking the "Cold" conditions vs. those after the Z warms up. In short - I am fricken frustrated and invite each of you to chime in with anything that I may have missed - or need to re-check. Just because I have had this model of Z for close to 30 years doesn't mean I haven't overlooked something. I guess I am loosing my touch or haven't had enough beer yet.

No criticism here. When I did mine there was only a fraction of what you have undertaken. Outstanding work! I have to ask though, are going to treat the insides of the Rockers and Frame Rails (Upper and Lower)? I treated mine by drilling access holes and spraying Phosphoric Acid with a wand, followed up with Heavy Duty Rust Preventative from Eastwood. Kinda like the old Ziebart system - except DIY. Post more Pics!!

Get Creative! Buy a dimmer switch and wire it inline on the cord - then you can dial in the speed that best suites you.

No need for a heat gun. I used the Meguiars #17 and a buffing wheel I bought at Harbor Freight. They also sell a polishing compound stick for plastic that will make the plastic lenses shine like new. I did this for all of my tail lamps and markers too. Go here: 8" Benchtop Buffer. Here is a coupon: 25% Off Coupon - or - use code 43280812 at checkout. Brings the price to $50. Although the results are impeccable, you have to be very careful when using this buffing wheel. There where a couple of times the lens would get caught and fly across the room. I have to say that it really made the tail lamps look like brand new. Outstanding Results.

If you color the bulbs green, consider removing the filters inside the gauges - this will help you get a brighter, consistent color. If you do open up the gauges, clean with MAF sensor cleaner and do not use compressed air as there are delicate springs inside!!

Post more pics of the areas you are working on. PS, add your Year and Model to your signature line so it will always be there in future posts - see mine below...