ZCurves

Stunning! It will really Pop when the sun hits it! Congratulations! Keep us posted!

I am game!

Keep the car! AT ALL COSTS! I have a parts car which I believe the drivers side support structure and Radiator is good. If you want it(Support structure...), then Merry Christmas! (attempt at creating good Z-karma:laugh:) It will be expensive though -Beer and BBQ. The car is in Humble, Tx. The body shop that did my paint is located 30 feet next door - Deerbrook Collision. PM me for details.

A Bit off topic, I followed Terry's (BlueOvalZ) photo documentation link and all I can say is WOW! I mean you are some kind of Whacked out Modification GENIUS!:laugh: I am very impressed with all of your work! Your 240z is tops in my book! -Andrew

I will putting it ALL back together - FINALLY after years of effort, I will get my beloved Z back together and on the road!!! No telling what the 'Debug' list is going to look like, but I am ready to go!! I am certain that I will be asking lots of questions (even if I have had a Z for 25 years!)

The shop that painted my Z used an expanding foam that filled the gap and provided support when cured. You could check with some body shop supply stores to get the name and maybe order some for your ride.

I had mine done by Ron too! When I received it back, it was just as is pictured in the original post. I replaced the gauge face with a White EL face, all of the work that Ron did is first rate.

I found the following: $1.19 in change bunches of Golf Tees Golf Balls Band-Aid Golf Course Pencils Game Room Tokens Match books Beer Bottle Caps 'Jumbo Jack' wrapper Condom wrapper - nice.

Well, I guess that I fall in the middle. I am 45 and got my first Z in when I was 20, it was a Silver 1978 Coupe. My next one was a 1981 ZX Turbo, I then took custody of my girlfriend's 1979 ZX. Got married to the girlfriend, sold my Z's for closing costs on a house. I promptly found another Blue 1978 coupe which is what my wife calls the "2800 lb. Mistress" and a parts car that turned out to be a Black Pearl. One thing though, since my wife was a "Z Chick" back in the day, I rarely get hastled about buying goodies for my mistress. -Andrew (ZCurves)

Welcome to the club! So where in Texas are you?? I am outside Houston.

ArnieTX - I just picked up this thread and I definately share in your excitement. Where are you located?? I am in Spring, Tx and there are a bunch of us Zed Heads up here. It would be great to see your rides. Have Fun!

Wow, What an opportunity! You could consider purchasing the Canadian 2+2 AND you will already have a parts car!! This is a great example of how awesome this ZClub is... You have a bunch of strangers from all over the world with the same interest in a great car, providing our collective knowledge to help each other out. For the VIN information, you can contact Nissan and they WILL do some research for you. I did this for my Z's and Nissan sent me letters with all of the details of my cars -from the paint codes to the dealer it was shipped to. You have to be patient because the VIN data on the 1st Gen Z's is limited and takes some time for the manual research. I could scan my letter if you would like to see it, just PM me. Good Luck.

Make sure to use a tool that does a "Double Flare", like OEM. Eastwood has lots of this kind of stuff: http://www.eastwood.com/stainless-steel-brake-line-tubing-kits.html Check out the video on the page.

Consider this.... You know that your Rockers, Doors and Rear Deck are shot. But they can be replaced. <O:p</O:p Here is what I would do. Remove the entire interior – including the Dash. If you cannot remove the dash cover it real good with carpet. Have the car towed to a place that does Media Blasting. See what they would charge to just shoot a few critical areas (there are plenty of us on this thread to help you come up with a list of places). Don’t worry about the obvious rot; stick with the underside, floor pan, rails, engine bay, battery frame, etc…<O:p If there are not too many places where the car just "Goes Away" or is like a Corn Flake, then you are relatively ok. Problem is that none of us can get with you to see it in person to make a good judgment.<O:p</O:p Post your findings and pictures back here and then we will have more information.<O:p You want to avoid a money pit where major portions of the unibody will have to be grafted together. From the pics that you shared, there will be some.<O:p I think that the $$$ spent on "exploratory surgery" via Media Blasting will be well spent. Worse case is that you will have to change directions and part Rusty out. Best case is that Rusty will need some transplants and some patience (and quite a bit of $$$). Avoid advice from anyone who might gain financially by your restoration -Body shops only want your business, so to them everything is repairable! Regardless of what you choose to do, you have made an excellent start by posting your concerns here and getting everyone’s opinion. -Andrew

This sounds like a ton of work. I would say that your idea is good, but the successful execution of it might create even more issues. A while ago, I saw that there were some new OEM wire harnesses available, but they are $700 and up. I would think that you would be better off looking for a harness from a '76 and then solder new injector clips, etc. on. I am almost certain that if you posted to this Club and several of the others on the web that you will find your '76 harness. As for the HID Headlights, I am also going to use the Black Dragon kit for my HID's, but I have found that the Black Dragon kit has too short of a run from Headlight Bucket to Bucket, so I will be extending the harness between the two. The kit is well made, so there should not be any issues for the OEM harness since it will do all of the heavy lifting for the HID's. I would make sure that you have a beefy run to the battery that is equipped with a Fuse or Breaker. Good Luck!

If you don't have any luck, I can fix you up. I have a couple from later model Z's ('77 - '78). I would have to check the fiche first, but I think they were the same. You might inspect the rest of your suspension to see if you need anything else! PM me if you need to.

When I was working on the brakes of my Z, I went with the old hardlines, but I did choose new hoses to the Calipers and Drums. I also went with Loaded Calipers and New Cylinders/Hardware for the rear. I cleaned my lines by soaking them in Varsol for a few days to dissolve the undercoating and loosen the crap that was inside the lines. I used a snug piece of lawn trimmer line to chase the inside of the lines to remove any debris. Finally, flushing the lines with spray brake cleaner prior to installation. I don't think that there is anything wrong with using new hardlines if you have the time and inclination to do the bending. (I probably would have about the same amount of time invested if I had used the new lines though). I would suggest that you should ALWAYS replace the hoses to the Calipers and Drums. SS Braided lines always look nice on a car -they perform better and last longer. With all of that said, I think that you should give it a shot. Build a JIG to lay out the lines, use a good tube bending tool and take your time! Brakes are the most important part of your car! This is where you should definately put your $$$! Generally, brake parts are all pretty reasonable(conversions aside) - so don't scrimp.:classic:

Hello everyone, I think that would be great! I know that there is a way to create a regional grouping of members on this site, I just do not know how to go about it. At the same time I do not want to exclude the many contacts from all over (e.g. Europe, Australia, ...). If you know about St. Arnolds Brewery, that would be a fun place to gather. This spring, I will be putting together a Z Car Clinic at my brothers business (Humble AAMCO in Humble, Tx). I will be getting an invite out to my Houston Z Car Club Bro's and Classic ZCC. It will be a day we can use the lifts, work on our Z's, trade stuff, fire up the BBQ and get to know each other. Hopefully I will have my Z back from paint, and at least reassembled enough to make her road worthy.

Nice Dog!

I have them on my '78, with OEM Mags. Luv'em.

Sounds like everyone has given you great advice, but I was wondering if you have had anyone pump the clutch while you look to see if the slave is indeed actuating. It is possible that the clutch is bled correctly and the Fork that the Throw-out bearing is attached to is disconnected or otherwise bound to the spindle shaft. It is also possible that your Pressure Plate is seized. Have someone pump the clutch while you observe the Slave. Does it move? Can you move the Clutch Fork by hand? Be careful not to destroy the Boot! If you have already replaced the Clutch Cyl, Slave and Lines, then It might be time to inspect the Clutch, Pressure Plate and Bearing. I hope it is just a bad Clutch Cyl. My two cents, good luck. Andrew

Years ago, my daughters named the car Thelma. I don't think that Thelma is a very sexy name, but my Frau would frown on anything that sounded too provocative.

Carl, Seriously - If your car has been there since Sept 2008, you need to go and pick the damn thing up and take it elsewhere. In Texas we have this law called a Mechanics Lien that which allows a shop to TAKE YOUR CAR for none payment of services. It is a good law when used ethically (e.g. Protect shops from non-payers) but it can be abused....All I am saying is -It is better to be safe than sorry.....yada, yada...

If the pitting is shallow AND external, then I would polish and then seal with a clear sealer like Eastwood Diamond Clear Gloss. I have used it on the exact same part you are talking about and no problems! This is not spray paint clear, it can stand up to high temps and all kinds of chemicals. Good Luck. Andrew

Yeah, I hear you! Normally, I do the same but I was just having a devil of a time finding some of the small-obscure seals. Hope it is working out well for you. Andrew