ZCurves

Bushes, Trees, Fence Posts! Outstanding comment from Zed Head. I am sure that I ran over quite a few bushes, etc. when I was in my twenties. I must have thought I was Speed Racer - makes me shutter.

You will want to install the stainless steel strips into the seal prior to placing the seal on the glass. Use plenty of soapy water. Once the windshield is in place, you can firmly "pat" around the edges to assist in seating the rubber seal. Have some band-aids handy - you will need them;) Leak check after a couple of days - then use black silicone to seal. In 30 years, I have never known and S30 to properly re-seal.

Jerry, when you get an example, please post a pic to this thread so we can all see. I would like to know the exact location on the quarter window too. BTW, I got mine from Mike @ Banzai.

dpascual1986 - I have one of these tools. It does help a lot. I bought mine at Harbor Freight...

Too bad the car is the only thing that is transparent...

Steve, I have the Prothane bushings, I like them a lot. When I put them on, I packed the 'Slots' in the ID with a combination of the Silicone they provide with equal parts Anti-Seize compound mixed together. You will need some paper towels and paint thinner/brake cleaner for clean-up;) Ten years later - she's still quiet as a mouse! I guess if you think about it, the anti-seize is just about impossible to clean off if you get it on your hands. Good Stuff.

The control box mounts in a frame just in front of the Evaporator. The Thermal Switch uses a Capillary Tube that runs up and into the Evaporator, controlling the cycling of the compressor based on the temperature range set. There are plenty around- I believe I have one. Your biggest problem will be finding a nice bezel for the front. PM me if you want to discuss more... Post some pics of what you've got - we can offer better suggestions that way.

Try Banzai Motorworks (Banzai Motorworks).

you could try ordering a yard of matching blue vinyl from a from an upholstery shop and install it yourself. Use 3M Super 77 adhesive.

Any S130 (ZX) will also have the Ding-Dong chime you speak of. For me, I kinda like the buzzer of the old Z - Depending on the weather, mine either is buzzing as it should - or it sounds like it is real drunk, almost like a sad cartoon buzzer. That is one of the many charms of the Z.

I always hated the way Nissan designed the car so the Positive post of the battery is next to the fender. Twenty years ago, I started buying my batteries with the posts reversed. Now the Neg. is where it should be and Positive is safe and sound. Just for safety's sake, you should inspect the wiring harness both in the engine room and the going into firewall.

Good choice! That's exactly what I did. Make sure and get the lock set when you get yours installed. FWIW, I got the YOKO Avid Z's installed. I am very happy with both!

I would do what Zed Head suggests. As for the Beta Motorsports anti-roll bars, I do not believe that you will realize a payback for the investment - besides you will need to have a place to mount them. IMHO - You will get more benefit from Urethane Bushings than a new roll bar setup.

I saw this on CNN Money, and thought everyone might be interested! $7000 USD - Indian DOM.

Bruce, You can go to the ZHome.com website. There is a link on the left called 'Z Car Registers'. On that page, there is a link for 'Classic and Collectible Z Car Owners' under which you can register the Black Pearl. Way back, I originally contributed the write up on the 1978 DATSUN 280Z Black Pearl Edition on ZHome.org. The link is located on the left toward the bottom under 'Production & Sales History'. Ironically, the only Black Pearl that I owned was a rotted out parts car. It was a shame, but it yielded $100's in parts for my Z and for a few others on this forum. You should take a bunch of pics of your Z for an Album in the Gallery. It would be nice to see some Black Pearls.

Sounds like you have removed it correctly. BUT, this is where the real careful work begins. If you are replacing the bearings you will need to 'Pack' the bearings with grease properly, You will also need to be careful when you replace the Bearing Races within the hub. Afterwards you need to properly load the hub with grease, so that when the wheel is turning at high speed the grease doesn't empty toward the seals. Finally and most importantly, when you re-install the hub onto the spindle you will need to 'Preload' the nut on the spindle. You do this by over-tightening a wee bit - it is best to torque to spec. Always use a new cotter pin and always pack the dust cap with just enough grease so that it does not ooze out of the seal. All of this is demonstrated in the FSM and on the atlanticz website. Important tip: After the Hub/Rotor assembly is installed back on the car and BEFORE you install the Calipers, spray down both sides of the Rotor with Brake Cleaner to remove any left over grease. You can also lightly spray out the Loaded Caliper to right before bolting it all back up. Be Safe! -Use caution, take your time and ask questions. PM me if necessary.

Hey, just saw your post. I too have a '78 - with the 510 blue. Check out My Albumz of my restore.. We'll have to trade some notes....

Replace the fuel filter up by the engine, then remove the Fuel Pump and check the small screen filter on the inlet. Finally, buy a cheap plastic see-thru filter (3/8") and place between the tank and the fuel pump. Also could take a look at the Fuel Pressure Regulator.

Yes, you can weld the frame. BUT, when welding you have be careful with the amps so you don't burn a hole in the material. You probably already knew that.

Well, it will cost you nothing to start. Pick a spot and get on it. Remember to bolt in some support if you start removing cross members / cutting junk out. The supports will help keep the geometry of the car intact while repairs are done.

Well, no. But if you already have a hole - seemed like good alternatives.

Can you recall the year of the Altima? I have 2007 and am going to look. Great Idea though!

I would get a copy of the Colored Wiring Diagram from PROSPERO'S GARAGE. It is well worth the $25 you'll spend and it will save loads of time. I would also download the FSM and EFI Bible. I have the FSM in pdf if you want it.. PM me for the download link..

If you have a sunroof or contemplating buying a Z with an existing sunroof, here are my suggestions: Plan on getting a donor roof and graft it in to restore. Look at the Canvas Retractable roofs (see link below). Sliding Ragtop Kits Homepage There is a picture of one on page 2 of their Gallery. These look pretty decent, so if you are in a position of dealing with a bad sunroof issue, it might be a solution.

Ditto. Let someone else 'enjoy the ride'.