ZCurves

I bought a cheap one at Wally World to keep dust and junk of my Z while in the garage. Jim is right, you have to be careful with some covers and old school bras. Twenty years ago, I had a sweet ZXTurbo with a bra installed and it got wet - nearly ruined the paint (which was new). Thank god for the Texas heat and polishing compound.

I may have a crappy core that I will give you if you pay shipping. Can't be more than $5. PM me if interested. I changed mine to a new Key Lock from Advanced when mine started going wonky and killing the ignition while I was on the road.

Went back for a few more goodies and... well never mind. Of the thousands of other cars there, they had to pluck this one old Z and crush it. There were MANY good parts left to pick and hoard! See how many parts you can identify....

You need to PM BensZ and have a talk with him. He is in the final stages of completion of his conversion AND he has some stories to tell.

Went back with BensZ, picked a bunch of misc interior plastics and combo switch. FYI - The Z still has the front and rear bumpers with pretty decent ends on them. The complete block, 4 speed and rest of the suspension/ running gear is still intact. There is also a White 83 300ZX that has the limited slip diff!

Heads Up, there is a 280Z at LKQ - Houston (I45 North behind Fry`s). I couldn't get the year but it is black and looked fairly complete. Happy picking!

Well, I will take any help that I can get! I am sure that whomever reads this in the future will be thankful. Muchas Gracias!

djwarner - sorry you were hit in the arse - I am glad it can be repaired. I am starting to like the 'Park Benches' on my '78 a little more.

You might consider making your Z a trailer queen rather than dragging it around.

I agree with Madkaw, but I would add to be patient when removing the broken studs. Try to back the stud out with a small chisel until you can get a hold of it with Vise Grips or Channel-Locks. When you are ready to reassemble, chase the threads with a Tap/Die and blow clean. Over the years, I used a wee bit of never seize on my studs as it helps in the future - it will not affect torque. Good luck.

I agreee with BGM! I have two sets if anyone is interested - more of the $250 variety.

I may try this again, I believe the HEI solution is the best and people should try it. Sarah, maybe (please ) you could do a write up with pictures of what you did to your Z. There are a lot of instructions on the web, but none of them are thorough and few have pics from a later model S30.

I tried the HEI conversion without any luck. I know that others have been successful with, I just could never get it working correctly. I wound up replacing the Ing Module and the Key Lock switch and that licked the problem. You can find a Ign Module here:Standard LX513 Ignition Control Module Datsun Nissan New | eBay No need to pay more than $100 for a new one since there are plenty of them out there.

So I performed the transplant on Saturday and all went pretty slick. The new driveshaft is a near perfect match for the original. The hardest part of the effort was unbolting the damn thing. As for the quality of the new driveshaft, the welds were on par or better than the original (see pics). The serviceable Spicer u-joints are a great improvement over the old staked in version and the yokes are spot on with the originals - except for lacking the dust shield of the original. After a test-ride, I can say that I am very happy. Big improvement with no noise or slack.

Check Thermotime, Water, etc sensors. Check to see if the Cold Start Injector is stuck open. Check the AFM (but I doubt this one). Report back what you find....

You are a NASTY, nasty man! (Now show us some more....)

They balance to 150 mph, which is faster than I'll ever put it through.

Sarah, I got nothing....I was hoping that someone else had bought them from BD. I am thinking that they might be OEM, because when you compare the price of the Front $1000 vs Rear $199 !!?? So I felt maybe there is a surplus of Rear bumpers... As for my parts, I have several pairs - all pretty straight but all need to be re-chromed to be right. You are always welcome to my parts stash!! FWIW - I priced having ONE bumper re-chromed here in Houston and it was $500. So those are LAST on my list of priorities.

Just ordered a new driveshaft from Driveshaft Replacement of Texas for my '78 coupe. When I restored my Z, I replaced all the mounts on the engine, tranny and diff, but the driveshaft was wonky and is now bumpin and thumpin. Although my diff mount is near new I am thinking that my next upgrade will be a Technoversions Diff Mount - (BUT their website is down so if you have a contact #, I would be much obliged). Driveshaft Replacement of Texas is charging $279, the driveshafts are built to order using new parts, replaceable u-joints and is speed balanced. The price also includes shipping. I will do a follow-up post with comments on quality of workmanship, fitment, etc. Plus lots of pics.

Ditto for Jarvo and Blue. ATF works well.

I am with Blue. If this is not your Daily Driver and you have the tools, then you should give it a try - you'll get plenty of help here on the forum. Now, if your mechanical skill is still growing or you would just rather have someone else do the work, then get yourself several estimates. I have done this many times and there is no way it would take 6 hours! Anything around 3 maaaybe 4 hours is more in line. Important: Be prepared to replace a upper strut mount or two, because these old parts are known to break. If this is the case, then you will be sitting for a while as the shop sources the parts. If you do the work yourself, you can get all of the parts ahead of time - cheaper- maybe even afford strut mounts (which you can return if unused). To figure your expense at a shop it is usually: Parts Cost + 20% (minimum) + $75/hr labor.

I have a "decent" rear bumper from my '78 w/o ends if you are interested. Free you pay shipping. I may be in Tenn and or NC this summer and could take it with me and ship from there. BTW - Black Dragon has brand new bumpers for the '78 for $199.

I wish you were in Houston - I'd grab them up and even buy you some BBQ!

Don't forget the tiny screen in the Fuel Pump inlet itself. As for running the tank down, you can "prime" a '78 model by putting the key in the On position and unplugging the Oil Pressure sender. Let it run for 30-45 seconds and plug back in. When I cleaned out my tank, I put a 3/8" clear filter between the tank and the Fuel Pump - to catch any crap that was left behind. You might try that if you are working on that area anyway....

Store them and entertain opportunities to sell.