ZCurves

Fuel Injected Right? If so, Did you change the big metal filter by the engine? Did you check and clear the screen filter located inside the fuel pump inlet? Put key in and turn to "ON" and then unplug the oil pressure plug. (On later S30's this will force the Fuel Pump to run). Make sure the new clear filter is flooding nicely. You could remove the fuel line after the big filter up front and make sure that you are getting fuel. Ok, so if you are getting fuel - you might check to see if you are getting enough pressure - BUT the car would still fire and therefore run. Speaking of fire, are you getting a spark? Check that too. Now, if the car fires up, remember to plug the oil pressure plug back on and then just let it run at idle for 10 - 15 mins while the car gets rid of trapped air in the system. Take a look at the little clear filter. You'll notice lot's of bubbles but not too much debris- but just run a tank or two through it and look again to see if it needs changing.

If you go with the compressor block mount, try to go with one from a ZX rather than an S30, the S30 mounts where heavy iron and weighed a ton. The ZX mount is aluminum and probably weighs a pound.

I have one from a '78, but it will need to have the mount changed because mine is rusty. PM me if you are interested. I live in Houston, Tx

Check/Replace your Ignition Module, you can find new ones on ebay / rockauto. That's why my Z was giving me intermittent spark. If your coil is original, you could also replace that with a current MSD or Accel coil, although my coil was working - there was a noticeable jump in the Tach needle from something. New Coil, No Jump. See my other post here: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=47690&p=414523&viewfull=1#post414523

Guys, after you are done coating the tank, don't forget to put a clear filter between the tank and the fuel lines to help catch crap that was left behind during the cleaning and coating (yes, there will be some...). Change the filter after the first tank. I found this to be a great way to protect all of the new fuel system components I installed downstream from the tank on my Z.

I believe that if you limit the compressed air to the pickup lines you will be fine. Just don't blast it at 100lbs for long. I think that Red Coat doesn't want air blown into the tank because it might thin out the coating in places. It is prudent to ensure the lines are not plugged up.

Update. Well I tried the MSD solution for one reason or another I could never get that upgrade to work - although I know now what was keeping it from working. Anyway, I bought a new Ignition Module and plugged it in - Problem solved. I also changed the coil with a new Accel coil and I believe this resolve the Tach needle hop that I had from time to time. I opened the original Ignition Module and it was full of Media Blast material from when the car was stripped during paint. The Media Blast particles were probably heating up and causing the module to shut down. Now Knowing this information, when someone is experiencing intermittent ignition problems (especially after the engine had been running for a while), it might be resolved by opening the module up and spraying the circuitry down with circuit cleaner to remove dirt and grime. These old school transistorized ignitions are pretty tough and durable.

Azuka, you could also test your Ignition Module. Two weeks ago, my Ignition Module on my '78 was overheating and cutting off while I was driving. It turned out that the module was full of media blast material from when I had the car stripped during paint. I replaced it with a new one anyway and got my spark back. FYI: There is a new on ebay (item#180446449818) here: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Nissan-240Z-280Z-710-Ignition-Control-Module-75-77-OEM-/180446449818?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2a0372509a&vxp=mtr $138 Another one here: http://www.ebay.com/itm/IGNITION-MODULE-LX511-NISSAN-280Z-200SX-620-NEW-/360295998709?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Year%3A1977%7CModel%3A280Z&hash=item53e350a4f5&vxp=mtr $134

Don't forget to treat the inside of the gas lines on the tank with the acid and then again with what ever sealant you choose. Make sure to have compressed air to clear the lines after you have put sealant through, this will make sure the stuff doesn't clog the lines.

I am not judging you.....BUT Godzilla is!:classic: The real worst case scenario is that you have to order a complete lock and ignition switch set from MSA and do a re install on the doors/dash. If your lock set was getting wonky it might not be a bad idea.

This morning (11/3/2012), I was visiting Pick-a-Part (LKQ) in North Houston (Behind Fry's) and saw a complete 81 ZX NA. The car had not been picked yet, it had real nice six spoke wheels & good rubber, complete engine, 5-Speed, 390 rear-end. All of the body panels were good and straight. Nice tail lamps and complete - but nasty interior (man I hate the ZX interior, but anyway...). The car is maroon. Happy picking.

Here is a followup - Over on ZCar.com, a guy is using a space saver spare from a 2000 Altima in his wifes 240z. Apparently, the 2000 Altima is four bolt pattern and fits just fine. http://www.zcar.com/70-83_tech_discussion_forum/280z_spare_tire_alternative_870635.msg2487095.html#msg2487095

Mine is a '78 with collapsible tire. I heard that you could use a spare from a Mazda, that would fit in the storage space nicely. Problem is that I do not recall which model of Mazda had the spare...If anyone know please reply to this posting. On the other hand, I am thinking that I could mount a 175/70/14 on a extra stock metal wheel. So does anyone know if a 175/70/14 on a factory steel wheel would fit in the storage space??

My advice is to STOP everything and make a list of all of the Subsystems where the car needs attention. Download the Factory Service Manual (FSM), Fuel Injection Bible, and the '77 Color Wiring Diagram (Search this forum and you will find links). Next, prioritize your list with getting the car running - not even well, just stable. This way you can move it around and get it to places that can correct the items that are lower on your list like welding, paint & body, etc. The next thing on your list would be making the car safe - solve fuel leaks and make sure the brakes work -and work well. Get rid of wonky tires (worry about rims later). Do Not get in a hurry! The old adage - "Haste makes waste" is definitely true with ZCars. So I encourage you to take your time and do each of the Subsystems well - to factory specs (see FSM). It is frustrating and inefficient to be working all over the car at the same time. So back to your original question - Fuel Pump Problems? Once you have downloaded the documents I mentioned above, look at each component of the fuel system. Check Fuses. Check Fuel Pump output. Change all filters. Is the fuel tank full of rust and crap?? One thing you could immediately do is to buy 3 or 4 Clear Plastic 3/8" fuel filters and place one between the tank and the fuel pump (You WILL need the others until you make sure your tank is clean - which it isnt). While you are at it, drop the fuel pump and check the tiny inlet screen for debris. The Clear filters will allow you to keep the balance of the fuel system clean as you inspect and rework each component. The work is not difficult, and this forum will provide you with all answers to your problems - because I assure you that someone on this forum has already encountered and solved whatever problem you are working on. One last piece of advice: Put your Model Year, VIN and Location in your signature, this way other members can help you much quicker. Use the Search feature first, then post your question if you can't find your answer! Best of Luck.

Congratulations Julio! I am sure that it feels like the weight of the world has been lifted off of your shoulders. I am impressed by the support offered on this forum - -all of you are real gentlemen for your kind support of Julio!

Koalia, I like your picture below in your post - It is a perfect example of "ZCurves". Andrew

WTF??? I've got some patina for $1200!

Carl, the insert in the original plastic knob was produced using the Cloisonne technique, look at hls30.com's picture attachments. If I were going to have them made, they would have to be a match for the original. The actual knob material would be the sticking point - I went with wood because I thought it was a nicer touch. To each his own.

Your repair looks great (I luv JB Weld), However, I would consider replacing with a later model S30 steel tank. When the panel is replaced, no one will know the difference.

Thank you for noticing!

Excellent suggestion from the 5thhorseman. thanks.

Not Hot, but pretty warm. 77 F degs outside today.

Thank you gentlemen! I will get my hands on a new ignition module. I am still inviting comments - that's the power of this forum!!

Dennis is right, it would take $300 to have 100 made at http://www.allaboutpins.com . I am going to get a quote and revisit this forum later, maybe 100 wouldn't be so bad...

Does anyone know where we can get a emblem reproduced in the original "Cloisonne" technique?? I can reproduce the shift knob on a lathe. I made one for my Z out of Mesquite wood and used the original emblem. I suppose that once I got the process refined, I could make a few of them... just throwing it out there...