Daniel

The cheapest and most noticable improvement I have ever made to any of the Z's I have done. It's easy all work is done at the "doughnut"only. Lube up the 4 bolts /nuts. Of Course things are marked B4. Then as with any old threads, Crack it, Tighen it. spray it.wipe it . run it out until it it just seems too much pressure. UH.. Lather rinse repeat..

The white wire on the harness that connects to the volt reg is not making connection thru the connector. Thats the wire that tell the it charge or not.

I hacksawed across a socket to grab the wing nut

Hey Jimmy, I've got parts and knowledge call me 704.533.2253 Daniel ( in Charlotte)

Its in the guage.There is a bi metal contact in there that acts as a voltage stabilizer. It looks like a set of points. I have had success with cleaning the contacts.

All gauges, interior dog legs rear parts etc. Heat / vent control panel . Arm rest ( even the left side) Nissian comp cross drilled rotors. A lot of 240 factory parts . Call me and make them go away. I did these for years and have since moved to other interest. I am in Charlotte N.C. I'm hoping someone will collect these locally as I don't care for the postage headaches. My phone is 704. 533.2253. My name is Daniel. I do not wish for these parts to be lost but come August 10 if no sales are made they become trash.

Remove the cable(s) from the chokes. Remove your ash tray and put a cloth under the choke pull. Use a coat hanger or what ever to attach the choke cables to the secure/safety latch on the hood . Make sure the cables are higher than the choke pull.Place about 3 inches of drinking straw or whatever tube comes close to a seal around the outer choke cable only using about 1 inch. Wrap that area with duct tape. Fill the 2inch with the lube of your choice. Walk away. Next time you visit your project the cloth under the pull will be nasty. Your cable will be smooth.Not doing this is what caused the pull to break loose from the console.

Hi all, been a while since I visited this site and hope everyone is well. I can't seem to find the article that was around about a year or so ago that listed the various Z car parts and year to build the perfect Zcar. I believe the article was also on Ztherapy. Thanks for your help. Daniel

HI ALL, Been awhile. So many projects so little time. My latest was my wife '90 300 z. It ran great ...until it just quit. This seemed to occur Around 2000 rpms. Turn the key it fires right back up and your gone until the next time. I was pointed by my nissian guys to a wedge looking solid unit at the front of the motor. Seems once there was a recall. I bought the unit from my guys 120.00. It came with a unit and new wiring harness link to multiple( five?)locations. Being that it is the wifes car, and I am SO confident that solid module is not a problem.I only replace the module. NO improvement. Go to my 300z tech. and say fix it please!! He grabs the harness that I didn't replace and wiggles it. Now this part is CLEAN and shiny to the naked eye. Wiggle it and the car revs high, low.. Thus I was indeed correct!! was this morons chant as I handed the man the part that was the other 50% of the repair kit that I had purchased . :stupid: (OH! when you look at it that way :stupid: :stupid:) had been in my tool box all along. These word I humbley admit. We all know better. :stupid: :stupid:

Of course a good/tight belt first. The next place I would go is the car wiring harness to volt reg. connector. A close inspection is required. The connectors attach but not all the pins make contact across. Until the problem returns yours is fine. So a belt check and a inspection/cleaning would be my start.

70 & 71 had the three piece tranny. I ASSUME thats a type A. 72 and up had a two piece. I ASSUME its B. The three piece had an adjustment on the clutch slave cylinder the 2 piece did not. Slop shifter normally is a 70/71/3 piece issue."While your there". I would replace all the rubber that closes off the tranny from the car. If you can see the shifter to tranny connection the 3 piece looks like a plumbing pipe on top. The two piece is just a small hole.

The ballast resistor is so misunderstood. Its a METAL strip. Stainless in most. Turn the key to start = hot to the point/ car wiring by passes the ballast resistor. Key in normal/ run position= wiring runs thru the ballast. I don't know the pertronics but, You cant just pull the resistor out. Your car would run until your key was released from start to run.

So you changed motors that the carbs were on without resyncing them?

Have you run the engine to "normal temp"? When mines been down for awhile its Grumpy. You may have an air leak on the intake .What was the Swap you did?

Welcome, I agree with Zs-on..(sorry Zs I type real slow) I would have to develop a trust with the car/gauges. The- BRAKE - That light I trust. It has been right more times than wrong. All the other issues don't matter until thats resolved. It should be on when the emer brake is up. That was the warning/bulb test of the day. Emer.Brake down and BRAKE on = brake problem.

Good point Sblake01- I used to change 190 winter 170 summer. I found my car liked the 190 always. Good call.

A Company called ATK has provided me at least 4 engines. They deliver to your door and dont wont your motor. Good warranty.I'll see if I can find a website.Search ATK or try ATKengines.com Its the most painless way to do it.NO I dont work for them.

Welcome Hugh, Saw your post # was low. The cross your fingers easy fix would be the heat to the carbs. Are your running a factory air cleaner housing? If so you'll see the location that the foil type duct attaches. If not then you need to try to get some exhaust heat to the carbs. The too easy is to change your fuel filter. I've had it work. The next question would be is the fan clutch locked on and over cooling the car ? huh?

I've got one brand new in the box. P. M. me

AM radio? but what if you want to listen to it at night???

I agree with Gnose. When they were new they weren't great. Guess it didn't rain that hard in the '70's huh? I think that the biggest problem is the linkage pivot points and the part where the arms attach needing lube. I know the motor is old but really for most of us how many hours do you really have on it? As for new brushes,sure its a while your there replacement, but they work or don't. If the motor works new brushes aren't an improvement. One item that has not been mentioned is the springs in the arms themselves. When they weaken they dont press against the window as well. OH for you guys that remove the linkage TRY IT FIRST WITHOUT THE ARMS!! There is an upside down! The right wiper where it attaches to the car will make a 1 7/8 inch gouge in the cowl before it stops. :sick: :sick: :tapemouth Please don't ask me how I know that measurement,WE dont talk about that. :stupid:

I've seen an assortment of those blower type defrosters. Not only is it an easier fix, the fact that it BLOWS heat I would think would be a great bonus on those mornings waiting for the car to come up to temp. It may not be a lot of heat but heat is heat huh?

Tomo, My intent was to reference a style of motor. It was not to appear to belittle your RC's. I am aware of the magnets in the motors as discussed in my previous post with EScanlon.

Darn! Enrique, I had hoped the small motor/in this case clause I posted would have excluded me from the basic electrics gotcha I offered. :stupid: You are indeed correct.

Those are not choke slides. They are nossiles. They work with the choke. Look into a carb with the carb piston up. You'll see the status of the flap.