Daniel

Tomo, your race boat is what my generation called slot cars.In your case the it's a slot car with a battery built in. Sure a SMALL motor. Large electrics in this case, NO. Have you ever had a bad heater fan magnet, alternator magnet, starter magnets? The magnetic field is created not existing.Good line of thought though.

The "foil on a roll' is HVAC tape. I used it for years.I placed it on the blue plastic and used the edge on a finger nail and slid it down the groove. I liked that best because it didnt take much to split the foil and I knew there was very little risk of cutting an otherwise good panel

Why they don't like to start cold. Chokes not working correctly, worn spark plugs or wires or both, dist cap,points,timing, bad fuel pump check valve that allows fuel to drain back into the tank overnight. Is your fuel filter the clear type ? Does it have fuel in it in the morning.Does it start fine the rest of the day then after many hours of sitting be difficult. The cold valve adjustment is just a rough starting point. Hot adjustment is the correct procedure.

Welcome GnoseZ, I noticed post # was low. I like your line of thought. Look forward to more.

I dont speak 280 but one would assume that a squeek= resistance That =belt wear. Not to mention the re-flexing during your last replacement. First guess is check the belt tention as a test. If that works replace it. If it doesn't replace it. OPPS,sorry 240zx seems didnt see your post. If I had I would just have said I agree.

Great!! Now the horn contact attaches on the high/low beam and rides on the back of that new wheel. If you went HUH? you may wish to run a wire to a switch to pass inspection.

That plate is the adaptor to accept the after market steering wheel . Don't hold me to this but I don't think those bolt hold the wheel on Ithink they were for the horn button that never worked(99 percent positive). Get a steering wheel puller or have a car place yank it off. The only connection to the steering is the splines.

Zedrally you are indeed correct about the bonding of the contact points. Mine started on the temp/oil guage both would sway in tandem Like I had a power problem. I cleaned , tested, ohmed, jumpered.... Amigo I KNOW electrics. I thought I had it , then no..The guage(s) with the face removed revealed a contact set that was shared between both gauges. I tried burnishing (ultra fine file) the contacts to no success. After a trail of failure, I found solder to be the only fix. They work correct. I then assumed that the contact was to ease assembly and not required. Of course I did note the wire windings as like an electromagnet. The fuel guage doesnt play solder fix. The temp/oil pres. share.The fuel is on its own contact. I dont know what or if that means a thing.

When I fought that demon I had these results. First I noticed my fuel guage would intermit move around like power/connection was poor. I could jumper across the two wires at the sending unit and the gauge would go full + and hold. I replaced my sending unit and tried the adjustment on it, only to have the same problem. I removed the guage and took it apart. I made a bench set up using the old sending unit. Things were testing ok and then I noticed on the rear of the guage is a contact point that looks just like your dist. points. I turned the lights off and put a spare bulb/socket in the guage. As the guage would drift wrong I would see a small blue arc between the point. I said ok I'll just soldier the points together as I had done to fix the drift on the temp/oil presure guage. On the bench fine.In the car full max all the time. I tried filing the points, jumper wires,the damn thing looks so simple .I bet I deinstalled/installed that guage about 45 times. I finally wound up with a guage that at 1/2 you needed fuel, full was way passed F. Iwent to the bone yard bought a used guage, lightly cleaned the much better contacts than what I had. Installed and the problem is gone. I do have 4 1/2 gallons at E due to the adjusting I did at the sending unit during my test. I can live with that. The moral of my story is start with the guage. The sending units I have pulled out have all been in good shape. The fuel being thrown at them keeps them very clean.

If it sparks and doesnt blow it sounds like its acting as a switch. If it sparks while the fuse is all the way inserted it would mean a loose connection at the fuse clip. Ive had that by people cramming wires into the clip to get power for phones/radio/cb etc. They streach. I have had alt. test good but fail on the car due to bounce and such. Try disconnecting individual units. Also do you think someone had a radio or such wired to that?

Store it with a full tank. Less than that with cause rust in the air void in the tank. Dont start it till spring unless you are going to drive at highway temp. for about an hour. The crank and let idle is bad. The oil creates carbons due to rich /cold running. They dont break down until you run at the temp I posted above. Just crank and idle causes them to mulitply. I like the rags although I would use a plastic bag full of steel wool. Mice in my area will use the cotton rag as a bed. The plastic bag stops any steel wool frags from getting into you carb area.I also put marvel mystery oil in my carb bowls. I just use an eye dropper and fill thru the overflow on the top of the carb bowls. I probably would leave the emergency brake off. The cables wouldnt rust on and if there is any metal on your brake shoes it won't bond over the season.Indeed disconnect the battery.

LOVE IT!! The lower temp made vapor lock a thing of the passed. Also its so nice not having a clean under hood area with a rusty header. It the only way to go. You'll do it once and never touch it again.

The sending unit is more like a straight cut file. As the float goes up and down it moves a contact. Things that could happen are 1) rust sediment has made more resistance as this contact patch IS in the tank. No kind of cover. The other that I would start with is nice clean connection AT the unit. All that involves is removing the right rear and inside wheel well cover door. Put a jumper across the two connections on the unit ( you haven't removed any wires yet )and your guage better go full and HOLD full/ passed full with the key on.That an easy rough test of the guage. Dead/poor contact spots can also happen because you only keep a small amout of fuel ,don't want it to go bad thing, Now the open air area in your tank is subject to moisture/rust. Thats why you never hanger an aircraft with less than a full load of fuel.

Yeah , I vote clutch, I've been there.

The common location seems to be the rear light bulbs/ sockets. Sometimes one filament in a dual filament lamp( tail & brake) will fail/ burn into, and lay across the other good filament. In this instance you now have a SHORT, two or more positive/hot/ ungrounded conductors making contact. If one or more positive/hot/ungrounded conductors were to make contact with a negative/grounding or grounded conductor that would create a GROUND FAULT. The two are completely different. What happens with only one fuse installed? Do all lights work? Of course I dont mean with one fuse.I should have given the examples in a better order!

Does the trans crossmember modification only apply to the 70/71 models or all years 240?

Not unless you want too. The volt reg just determines when the battery needs charge. Its just a switch. The 60a alt will charge the battery faster. Kinda like a toilet flush valve that turns the water to the tank on or off. The speed that the tank fills doesnt matter.

OH!! You allowed yourself to fail before you even started. You assume the storage is somewhere near where they sleep. Yeah, leave it at home. When you meet the guy that stores his in a cool place,Please think of this.

Think out of the box! Somewhere in your area is a garage thats empty. Perhaps the owner doesnt use it or would trade someone cleaning it out as rent. Run an add,post one on the board at school and the grocery store, ask at church or the local resturants. Who knows its relationships like that could very easily become a source of income from them and their friends. People always need something fixed, cleaned or painted.

Wow! My hats off to you! My kind of tester! Your switch I assume is good after your "educational experence". The turn signal hi/ low is the next path. Thats the next weak link. Pay careful attention to the bottom of that switch where the fiber/ connections attach to the plastic housing.

Are the chokes turning all the way off?

Your example I should have used, as it appears to be an early vertical strip window unit. My 73 has horizonal. That would put you power + and - at the top and bottom instead of left and right as in my example. Your photo shows what would be read as 12v. Sure you have continuty all over that window, thats why you search for voltage as it only cares about the top to bottom voltage thru each individual trace. All of those traces make a flat parallel circuit. They are just small wires, your volt meter just acts as a jumper cable across the broken area of that individual wire and therefore reads 12v.

New example.. left side of grid is vertical (+ ) right side is vertical( -)... (+)probe on left vertical. Put( -) probe in the center of top horizonal trace. if its good you are now parallel in the circuit and therefore show reduced (about 6)volts. Row two has a break 4 inches right of the left vertical(+). With the probes on left and center as we did on row 1 we will read 12v as we are now a series connection. By sliding the (-) probe toward the left once we lose 12 we have found the break as is will be at the (-)probe tip. If the break was between the center of row two and the right (-) horizonal we would read 0 volts. By sliding the( -) probe RIGHT this time ,once we read 12 we know we just passed over the break and are again a series circuit. I think thats a better explaination.

Enrique , Thats correct. The area between your red lines would show 12 volts because there is a break between the two test probes(red lines).This reading would be across the entire length of that blue line with the break and you have to move your probes until the voltage disappears. That would mean the break is no longer between the probes, therefore the path of least resistance is the silver trace, not the meter. That would mean that area is good. Ok one more example. You have 3 light bulbs sockets that have a + and - test point on them. They also have a pigtail of wire that enable us to connect to the + and - of the battery. We install all three socket + to the pos. and all three - to the neg. We install bulbs in all three sockets. The bulbs glow. At our socket test points we will show less than 12(about6volts or less) voltage , because the lamp is the path of least resistance and we are paralell in the circuit. Now remove ONE lamp. I would now have two glowing lamps that show small voltage at their test point, but the socket without the lamp will read 12v because the meter is now the path of least and is a series circuit. Between the battery pos and the socket + you will show no voltage ,Same with socket - to battery neg. BUT, once we have an open between our probes,that makes our meter the path we will show 12 voltage. Let me know if thats not clear and I'll try again.

Test searching for VOLTAGE not continuity.Please read my single wire example once again. The number of wires makes no difference If still confused I will be glad to explain further. I should have added that the probes will need to be slowly brought together . Whenever you have volts,you have a gap/break in the path between the probes. no volts= one solid path. O.k. one more..The volts across a switch that is on/closed =none The volts across a switch that is off/open= voltage of power source