Daniel

2mz has good info.I would add to check the bright/dim switch as well.Most failures on anything broken is usually where human hands can touch it. Also that "dim" headlight could be your short. Have fun!! Daniel

If you left your windows down during a storm they would be nice.The best use I know of is once I had a friend knock over a carton of milk in the floor.Soap and a hose were required to clean it out.Ever break a heater hose or get a split in your heater control valve or heater core.Glad those holes were there!! Daniel

Beandip's info is good except for two corrections.The knob on the carb bottom does NOT move.The jet slides in and out of it as it is like a doughnut.The gross jet is an aftermarket product that replaces the factory needle type fuel delivery jet with round ball bearing type.Sorry for the correction bean dip but, I would hate for Zwolley to go in search of the wrong parts. Have fun!! Daniel

I'm not well versed on part #'s but I will share this.The LT150-10 is a 37.5 amp.I assume the "R" means reconditioned.The 260z used a lt160-23 that was 45 amp.Due to more electricial requirements on a 280z it used I think a 50amp.That may be the 50a unit you mentioned.Any of those will work for you.The main thing is make sure it uses external voltage regulator,unlike the 280zx and up units.Odds are yours only needs brushes.Two screws hold them in where your wire connector plugs in.Thats the neat thing about the nissan units is you can replace the brushes cheap and easy while on the car. Have fun!!! Daniel P.S. the 50a/280z is what I have been using since the 80's

The chokes are the first area to check.Make sure both are working correctly.I had one that had slipped on the wire once so I was trying to start with only one choke.It cranked but it was an effort.The other is the fuel pump.Some Z's had mech,some electric,some both.I fought the start problem with an electric as it would allow the fuel to drain back in the tank over night.After wearing out the starter in the morning it cranked fine all day--until.I haven't had that issue with mech.but I could see it .All it would need is a bad check valve.Then your fuel could run back to the tank like removing your lips from a drinking straw.A clear fuel filter and see how long it takes to fill it in the morning would be a good test. Havefun!! Daniel

I'm sorry.I overlooked those screws.The lock is a simple unit.All it does is turn180 degrees so when pressed down it misses the release.With the panel off of the interior hatch you should be able to reach in and push down on the release.The exterior lock should move freely if inlock position.If it doesn't press down it is either unlocked and frozen by rust or internal problem.The lock is held in place by a horseshoe type clip.If you remove that clip you could then see the release thru the lock hole.

I think you are speaking of the diaphram type opener.You'll never miss it.Make sure you plug the vacuum line.If I recall that was a throttle closer not opener.When you let off the gas it slowly closed the throttle.I trashed mine in the '70's and haven't miised it since. Have fun! Daniel

HI guy!! The full fuel with additive is a yes. Jack up the car as it stops flat spots on the tires.Remove the battery is good also.I would add some marvel mystery oil to the carbs.I do this by add it thru the overflow tube on the bowl top.This just stops the needle and seat/float from hanging up.You won't add much at all.The crank and run is a bad idea.The story goes that each time you crank the car the oil develops sand like carbon molecules.When driven at normal highway temp for an hour or so they disolve.If you crank and just let it run you do more bad than good as they just multiply cause they never disolve.Not to mention the moisture that destroys your exhaust.Grannys car always smoked and needed an exhaust.She only drove to church on sunday right??? NOw we know why. Have fun!! Daniel

Removing your tag light will let you access the screws that hold the latch catch.Removing those will allow access to the two screws that hold the (#10) latch to the hatch. Have fun!! Daniel

Why worry?The coolant flows thru that intake as a heater for the intake.Unless your driving in severe cold you don't need it.Also on normal or hot days your still ADDING heat to the intake.Since Z's are bad about vapor lock in hot weather anyway why add to the situation?Your car looks great!!!It may be the camera angle but,It appears the hose to trim is your intake to brake booster.It appears just tall enough to rub the underside of your hood when closed. Great Job!! Daniel

They always seem to crack at the small piece where the handle runs thru.Perhaps a thin coating of jb weld on the rear of the part would increase the life.Just make sure not to cover where the clips seat. Have fun Daniel

I kept my old one and the bag.The part # on the bag is 80950-E4100.Call your dealer it couldn't hurt.I saw One once that a guy had carved them from blackwalnut.He also made a matching emer. brake handle grip.Not stock but not bad.

The only way I could get them and it was 10+ years ago was to buy the entire handle from the dealer.They were not avail. seperately.Odds are if you did find junk yard it wouldn't last long as the plastic dries with age.

Mark,If your trying to start the same car as the hole in the floor.It won't.You must have a tach. A bad or disconnected tach=no go. Have fun!! Daniel

Although the JB weld could be a bandaid fix.Myself I would always wonder when will it split again?This time I will be crushing up bits of JB in my valve springs and filling those tiny oil holes with that sediment.Fix it right and move on.Band aids ALWAYS require work at a later date and they NEVER require that work when you have ample time to do it.It didn't take me but a few decades to figure that out!!:stupid: Have fun!! Daniel

Bad and dangerous idea.No it won't work.

The front brakes do the majority of the stopping.Thats why use use up front pads about 3 to 1 rear.The biggest problem with adding rear disc on any car I have heard of is getting the emergency brake to function correctly.Also the master cylinder is different.The disc needs a larger resovior along with the proper valve.I think the front upgrade will give you ample stopping power without additional headaches. Have fun!! Daniel

Tranny worn?Its possible.I vote that you need a new clutch.I know it doesnt slip or make noise -yet.Bad syncro maybe,but unless you are bad about downshifting hard in to first gear I doubt.It would seem that second gear syncro would be the one to go huh?Since there is no reverse syncro try this.Put the car into first gear,then go to reverse.Thats a practice to use even when everything is correct.It'll stop that grinding. Havefun!! Daniel oh yeah- There is no adjustment.The slave cylinder on the tranny is self adjusting on the 72 and 73.Check that for leaks also.After driving the same 240 since 73.I have had that symtom a few times before.Each time replacing clutch/pressure plate was the fix.

When you remove the valve cover you'll see it .On each end it has a rectangle about the size of a domino.They split there and cause poor lube to the cylinders past that point.L28 engines oil thru the cam itself.It is replacable you just have to order one.I would spend my money there instead of the pump.

I agree with 2mz's.The wrong cover will do more damage than the weather.I had a friend that was given a cover for xmas for his nice corvette.About three months later the factory paint started popping off in chunks.If you have the space one of those tarp/pole portable garages from lowes/home depo may be a better choice.Maybe both!

If it has sat for a while I suggest cleaning the battery connections at the block/solenoid.Also should you opt to turn it over without sparkplugs,you want a towel or such in front of the holes.You will spray oil across your shop if you don't.

Sean,Glad it helped.I would have expected your last post to end with"tranny oil poured everwhere when I pulled the shaft from the tranny".Make sure you check the level.The square plug that sticks out behind the reverse swtch on the tranny.With the car level 90wt gear oil should run out when the tranny is full and the plug removed.That is also the location you fill it.I have used a heater hose and filled it from near the battery

I would suggest having the U joint replaced.Buying a junk yard part is just a band aid.It has most likely already seen its better days.As cheap as a new Ujoint is do it right and get it over with.I know your working toward big changes for you car but,it always seems those thing take a little longer than one thinks.I have plenty of friends that are in the 10th year of a house that was only going to be a temporary thing.The same with fixing up old cars. Have fun!! Daniel

I vote Ujoint.Easy test.Jack up the rear end.Move a tire at a time back and forth by hand .Try it with the car in gear and not if needed.A bad Ujoint will allow too much wiggle room and slap.You'll see it or hear it. Have fun!! Daniel

When you replace them you can press the pin in just enough to hold from falling out until you have all the rivets in the panel.If you lock them in one at a time they fight against you.In my younger Z days I used roofing/shingle nail and cut the heads off as replacement pins.A touch of paint and life was good.Of course that was years before I became my father! Have fun!! Daniel