Daniel

Basic electric lesson.It will travel the path of least resistance.Once you have built up enough carbon(insulator)on the electrodes Mr. electric will determine a single path of least resistance.The factory designed that engine and tested it using ngk.It's hard to beat those guys in the brain department.Bosch are for german cars.NGK for japanese.My old chevy is AC.

I had a similiar thing once and it was my fuel filter.At time of running large amounts of fuel it SOMETIMES stirred up enough sediment to starve the car.Idle was enough,When the car sat long enough the sediment dispursed until the next time.A fuel tank dip and clean and new tank to engine compartment fuel line resolved mine.I hope your is only an old filter.There are clear filter units at any auto store that allows you to see what your pumping. Have fun!! Daniel.

Simple test.Put a jumper wire across the two wires that are attached to your sending unit.With your switch on does the gauge go to full max?If it does then the problem is the sending unit..It's probably got rust/sediment on the float arm and or the area the contact travels on.The sending unit is easily removed by turning the ring at the unit.Of course you want to have low fuel.Shake the unit and listen for fuel in the float.That would limit its travel .There is an adjustment screw on the sending unit should all be well with the unit.Perhaps age has caused increased resistance in the path from sending unit to gauge or the connectors at the tank need cleaning.I rub a little oil on the rubber gasket to aid reinstall and prevent tearing.The fact that your gauge moves and is stable not floating around I believe it is good. Have fun!! Daniel

Firewall stuff is the same.Im sure you're aware your air cleaner won't switch over.I think there is a kit to allow you to use the flat top air cleaner on the round.The rumor is you need those horn looking things that are on stock air cleaners.Something about improved air flow for better atomization of fuel.Most of the aftermarket I have seen are just flat against the carbs.Not good.I also suggest while the choke cables are undone try this trick.Cut a plastic drinking straw in half.Slip it slightly over the cables and duct tape it . Use a coathanger or such and hang them from the latch on your opened hood.Add alittle oil to the straws.The next morning after gravity has done its work the cables will move easier than you thought possible!

I would try a boat cover/awning maker.The canvas would not hold moisture and be very durable.If it was painted the tank color you choose,that would limit any freying.They probably have strips near the width you need they use as tie straps.Those won't frey.Have fun Daniel

There is a trick that won't stop a virus but,will stop the spread.1st-open your address book and click new person/contact,like you do when adding a new friend to your email.2nd-In the window where you put the first name enter !000(exclamation and 3 zero's) Email address=WormAlert.The software may respond that the address is invalid or such but just continue.3rd-click add and OK.Now !000 will be the first(top)address.If you get a virus,it will try to send itself to !000 first.It will fail andstop then send you a message that reads"WormAlert could not be delievered"You now know you have a virus but your friends are safe.It also gives piece of mind cause when hoax's come around you don't delete something that was not a virus.

Why when something is broken people say it is "out of whack" but when it's repaired they don't say Oh good,"it's back in whack !" Why do they print -Do not eat- on the silica packs thats parts are shipped in.Was there once a moron that said,lets see, datsun sent me a nice new part-and look a snack!!

Yes,It's a z thing.People close the doors by grabbing thetop and the pressure causes the crack. Daniel

Myself I have found wd40 to be kids stuff.Liquid wrench is what you want to soak them in.Also note very carefully how the linkage came off.Years ago I took mine out and on replacement decided that it really didn't make any difference.Brand new paint job,starts to sprinkle,I hit the wiper switch,wipers take off across my hood!! OUCH!!!Brand new scratch!!:eek: :sick: Daniel

I have seen incorrect/dirty air filter cause that problem.Remove your air cleaner for a test and give it arun.

I recommend starting with the connectors at the fuel tank sending unit.Make sure they are clear of oxidation and are making good connection.There are two connectors.Use an alligator clip type jumper wire to hold/short the two together and ground the other end of the jumper.The gauge should go to full max. and hold there .Next,if needed remove the sending unit(of course low fuel,safety in mind)and make sure the travel of the sending unit arm is not being limited by rust/corrosion and that the float is not holding fuel and causing false readings.It works like a toilet float.You will see the contact path on the unit.Again it should be clean and smooth travel.Hook up your wires and test your gauge readings.I can't remember if you need to ground the sending unit housing,but you'll know.I would try to make any corrections from the sending unit.There is a set screw that allows you to move the float arm without having to bend it. Once inside the dash gauge you would have no way to verify your changes without reassembly and reinstallation.Also they put heavy duty adhesive inside the gauge to lock the factory setting.It can be difficult to break loose,this would be a last resort.Put a little oil on the rubber seal at the sending unit to aid in reinstall.It stops it from binding and tearing Have fun!! Daniel

I agree with 2mz's.The neat thing about a Z dist. is it will only go back in correctly.Its fool proof.Remove the two screws at the dist base at the block.Remove dist cap vacuum line and wire from dist.Wiggle it loose.It's very easy.It also makes it very easy to change/set points and condensor.Vise grips will remove the bad screw.Again be careful not to snap it.Be gentle Daniel

loosen the single screw that is across from the timing a/r indicator plate to make your adjustments.The two screws 2mz is refering to are for dist. removal.They would move the entire dist. including the a/r plate making the reference invalid.Be gentle on that screw as it is one that breaks easy if it hasn't been moved for awhile.Working it back and forth usually aids in breaking it loose.

Almost sounds like vapor lock.Is it a bucking type judder?Were you sitting still a long time on a hot day?Was the fix to run it on the open road a while or just park it for a couple of hours? Daniel

I have done two ATK replacements in two Zcars.One was 15years ago. One 10 years.Both still perform excellent,never a moments problem.They're the only way to go. Daniel

Keep in mind full choke is for STARTING the car.After it cranks,you want to feather it toward off.Think of how a lawn mower or chain saw acts when it cranks at full choke.It acts ugly fast as the rich fuel floods it.Its a "get the feel kinda thing"but,the goal is to use the choke as little as possible.You may have to hold the gas on a little or gentle revs as I say its a feel.30 seconds full choke is a long time.Your spark plugs will thank you as rich=foul.I think you saturated your plugs with raw fuel causing them to misfire.They needed air to burn it off.But thats just my guess.Check a plug,if its carbon black,its fouled.Carbon is a insulator of electricity.You can clean them up or replace.It probably occured over time.They just failed on a rainy day. Daniel

Use a small phillips head,punch or awl and pop the little pin in the middle of the plastic rivet down thru the rivet.Then it will come out.If you find the pin when you remove the panel you can reuse them.Myself ,I would not remove the panel until I had the replacement taillight gaskets as the fewer times you flex that panel the better off you are.It will need to be removed to remove the taillights.That is also an excellent time to check out the status of the gas vent hose that runs across that area.It causes raw fuel smell. Have fun!! Daniel

License Plate illuminator fixture.

Hi guy,I fought the fume monster for about 2 years off and on.I did all the mentioned items and never really saw a difference.I was told the rear hatch seal was the normal problem.I had replaced it when I restored my Z about 15 years ago.The car is garage kept so the rubber was still good.I reglued the seals -no help.Then about a month ago it hit me like a rock.When you open your hatch there are 2 screws on the left and right of the catch.Remove those and your tag light assembly will drop.There are 2 bolts that hold the catch.Close the hatch(watch out for the tag light)Loosen the catch bolts to where they are easily moved.Press down on the hatch and snug the bolts.Because you pressed down,the top of the latch is what seated the catch.Moving the catch down a fraction more will ensure it connects at the bottom of the latch.It is wonderful to travel without fumes!!!It's great to arrive somewhere without your clothes smelling of exhaust and your lips purple!!!I now either open a window or door before I close my hatch as the fit is so good I need to relieve some pressure or I have to slam it.Let me know your results. Daniel

Sounds like you have the correct wire.If touching nothing the gauge is at rest.Ground and it moves.Does your oil gauge do the same thing?They will not spark. Daniel

The fuelpump has in it a check valve that keeps the pressure on the fuelsystem.When they go bad they allow the pressure to gradually(overnight in your case)bleed off.Trying to start it in the morning means the pump has to repressurize the line so it has enough pressure to pop open the injectors.The rest of the day your fine because the leak is very slow.Put a pressure guage on the fuel system and check it in the morning,then during the day and odds are you'll see your problem.I don't know if there are internal and external check valves for various years.You may ask nissan about your year. Daniel

Check inside your dist. The points may have shifted.The ground wire inside the dist. may be bad. Daniel

May I also suggest replace the thermostat while the hoses are off.The 2400 engine has an oil tube that oils the valves.They split/seperate.When you remove the valve cover make sure you check/replace, again is nice.They caused the death of alot of 2400's due to underoiling.The 2800 has it in the cam to eliminate that.Check out the old threads for 59ghia as he just walked in your shoes.Sounds like he's rapidly becoming was 59ghia now '72 240Z'erLOL Another Z bug has bitten.Myself ,I would stay away for torches,cranking an old car offers enough chance of fire for me.Perhaps it was a bone chilling 74 degrees in san fran when he started his carROFL !!(sorry 59ghia I had too!!) Have fun!! Daniel

Your is very good.The changes I would add are Don't use wd40.Put marvel mystery oil in instead in all cylinders.Let it sit for a day or more.Bump the starter and load the cylinders again with marvel.Let it sit.Spray carb cleaner in the carb bowls.The easiest way is spray it in the overflow.Lift the piston in the carb.Spray carb cleaner into the carbs.Check points(new is nice)gap.Clean oxidation on connector wire dist. and coil.Clean battery connections that attach to car(as well as battery)Do the gas tank stuff and crank that baby!.I wouldn't adjust the valves until the car ran.Oh yeah,check your fan belt,also it takes about 2 gallons of fuel to prime and crank a 240.Crank it in neutral,Hate to blow a clutch line and blast off into a wall or something! Have fun!! Daniel

Glad to hear you got it fixed(almost).As far as grinding when you put it in reverse.A tip.Put the car in first gear then reverse.Reverse has no syncro gear as your forward gears.That will stop the gear spinning.Without this reverse will usually grind even if the clutch is fine. Daniel