Daniel

Dan,I don't quite understand "missing wire" is it there and you don't know it location or is it not there.Anyway the 240's harness where the VR plugs has a solid white wire among others.Thats the on/off wire you're searching for.When they fail,everything looks normal in the plug.You need to check continuity across all wires with both male and female conn. together.If the test fails,you can jumper across to make create the path.You are wise not to drive like this as your battery can explode.You could disconnect at the VR and run off the battery only if you had too. Daniel

Do they both increase and decrease at the same time while your driving is constant?If so, it is the contact in the gauge.The temp and oil pressure share one. The fuel has its own.The Amp has none.The fix is replace the gauge pack or get some jeweler screwdrivers,take the face off the gauge and try to polish the contacts,Very fragile,Very nonforgiving as they say. Have fun!! Daniel

A word of caution.The #10 looking wire is a fuseable link.It's job is to fail(burn up)before wiring harness damage is done.As are all fuses.It is truly the "weakest link".To replace it with standard wire would be equal to tin foil around a fuse.I haven't ever needed one.Where would he get one of the correct rating guys? Daniel

Allow me to throw a couplemore out there. On the starter soleniod where the positive attaches .There is a wire about a #10 that goes to a connector.If that connection is bad you will stop.(Unplug that as security and no one can start that car)I would install new dist.stuff and get the corrosion/oxidation of any wire I could unscrew.It can't hurt.Check the ground inside the dist.Make note of the dist.timing mark location and the rotor position.Unscrew the single screw on the opposite side of the marks.The dist will pull straight out.It is keyed so it will only go back in correctly.Its easy!!That will allow you to install points,clean connectors etc. Again it can't hurt.A Z car tip-Gently tighten bolts just to feel a movement.Then unscrew a little move and tighten a little do that a few times during the removal.Alot of the bolts attached to the motor have a tendency to snap.That dist. screw is one of them.Don't force!!I put telfon tape on mine for future ease.It will need to work for timing.Thermo housing and water pump are other areas of caution.Do your temp and fuel hold when it dies.That would eliminate the relay you here click when you switch the key on.Sorry I got long. Have fun!! Daniel

How about fuel filter that is choking on the tank/fuel line rust.When it dies it allows the sediment to settle so it restarts?I like those glass clear units so you can see what your pumping.I would also suggest inspection and cleaning the wire connectors at the coil,ballast resistor and dist.(internal also)points,cap etc. are always nice.I had a problem once that was the battery ground cable connection at the engine.A wire brush fixed that.Some Z's had a 2nd fuel filter at the tank as well as up front.Glad to hear you're rolling! Daniel

Sometimes worn plug wires can pass power across each other through induction.It's always best to seperate the wires as best you can.Also they can leak power to ground as when laying on the valve cover,this would cause weak spark=unburnt fuel=backfire.Check for good wire seat in the dist. cap. as well as wear in the cap and corrosion in the cap where the plug wires go.I once had that happen and found the screw tip on a spark plugs where the cable goes was almost falling off! Daniel

Hey baddog,While your console is out you may wish to use jb weld to reinforce the nubs that hold the choke support screws.Incasing them perhaps will extend their life as they crack with age. Daniel

MIke I'm impressed!!The car looks great AND all the parts are assembled!!!! (thats some of that humor stuff you hear so much about!!) Daniel

Just a observation perhaps it will help.Past post that started with light issues usually end with replaced fuse block or loose fuse clip holder or oxidized clips making poor connection.The wiper may be a seperate issue.You may have a worn/dirty switch.It comes out of the firewall beside the batterery and runs back into the "pan"where the motor lives.You could check outputs at that connector or backfeed it to test your wiper and switch.Since the lights and wiper are on the same combo switch that may be telling you something about the switch. Daniel

I would install the hose and prop the door open.My 72 air cleaner has no door,It's always wide open.I do have a flap on the front I can close but I rarely do. Daniel p.s. In your photo the carb on the left has a metal pipe attached to the overflow on the bowl of the carb.The right is rubber and attached to the air cleaner as both are on my car.My question is where does that metal pipe go?

Although Z's are cold natured .There is a foil hose that connects to the heat shield then the air cleaner.It sucks hot air off the exhaust manifold when cold.From your photo I see that missing. Daniel

I would start with the shifter in neutral. Daniel

As the saying goes you can't make chicken salad from chicken sh*t.The 73 carbs aren't worth your money or efforts,they were junk when they were new.I drove a holley Z once years ago and it seemed to do well.Thats a choice you'll have to make. Daniel

Thanks for the info.Do we have those in the U.S.?

Ive used duct tape for small tears.If it is dry and rotten you can replace it with some plastic from a paint tarp or garden center weed control plastic.I have used a thick quality trash bag.The gorilla snot that attaches it is plumbers caulk.It's at home depo type stores.It looks like tar strings 12/16 inches long.That seals the edges and around the window crank etc. and allows future access without having to tear the plastic.One more suggestion.While its open I would use a foam brush or a rubber glove and a rag and put rust killer in the door bottom.NAPA calls their product Extend.Some use por15.Make sure the drain holes at the bottom of the door are clear of debris and not painted shut.With all that done you won't be back in the doors for a long time. Have fun!! Daniel

What is a skyline? Daniel

The answers to your questions are at your local community college.The classes are not expensive and will pay off forever.Welding is a practiced art.Metal types,what temp to use,what type of rod,there is a lot to know before you throw sparks.I have many friends that have been through the class and they all enjoyed it and learned alot. Have fun !! Daniel

Once upon a time I ordered from msa and nissan they were 510 choke knobs.The 240 as we know has "lobes" on each side of the choke design on the knob.The 510 has a lobe on the left,the right side is straight.It will work and few would notice.It was some time around 1985 that I was looking.Availability may have changed.Some years later in december I went into a shop that repaired Z's only.In the corner was a junkpile of parts, trannys, rearends, clutches,etc.They were piled in an"A" or christmas tree pattern.At the top, just like the star,there was the choke knob!!!You can have it if you can get it theowner said.It was still attached to the cables that were buried.That was one of the best xmas presents ever!! Daniel

Jpac,If that car is of interest to you, there's one on 521 between pineville and lancaster.Black,auto,sunroof it runs.The guy wants $350.00 Daniel

Put car wax on the stainless before you paint/remove it when the paint is dry.Stainless doesn't take paint very well to begin with,the wax will assist in keeping it off.I caution sandblasting as that can warp the metal.There is a place in N.C. called media blasters.They use the damnest things!A friend wanted a car blasted to the metal without removing the windshield and rear glass.They used crushed pecan shells!!It removed the paint and no problem for the glass.I waxed mine,then used thinner to remove any missed areas.Very easy.I think the removal/reinstall of the stainless invites more negative than positive results.While you have the panel off I would suggest checking the status of the rubber gaskets that your taillights live in ,as when they rot they let in exhaust fumes. Have fun!! Daniel

Thats just what they do.The charge and discharge just about breaks even at less than 1000 rpm,s.I'm just glad you got yours repaired before any real damage occured and without injury!! Daniel

What year is your car?

You must have a 70 or 71.There are bushing you can replace,but that tranny is known for your problem.I replaced every piece rubber and metal in the shifter of a 70 I restored once.It was still hard to tell neutral from in gear.On the bright side welcome to the world of Z cars.You can easily upgrade to a better tranny! Have Fun!! Daniel

Ztherapy has your info. and your product.The linkage must match the carb type and there are a few out there.Your air cleaner won't transfer over.You'll love the new carbs!! Daniel

The gap is behind the handle arm.You should be able to see the clip head.If you see "feet " it was put on upside down.They make special tool to remove the clips although like 2mz said you really don't need it.All parts stores have them.A tip when reinstalling.Get in the car and with the window up,find the handle position you like.Now down.I have mine down =3 oclock up =12.That way the handle doesn't get in the way of your knee.To reinstall Put the clip on and push the handle on the post.Careful not to tear the interior panel!!!Make sure to seal the vapor barrier when finished in the door(piece of plastic).Some people don't understand that keeps the water/moisture that runs down the outside of your window from entering your car.Then they ask -"Why does the INSIDE of my windshield freeze in the winter? Have fun!! Daniel