Daniel

Thank you oh so much for your timely and accurate photos!!! Daniel

peterpit,The 240 steering wheel does look good.One item I wish to make you aware.The small diameter of the wheel really tired my hands out after a couple of hours.Of course it may fit your hands just fine.Just a thought before you go through all the efforts. Have fun!! Daniel

Unless your goal is factory exact, muffler shops can make thoses pieces.Used equipment is already at risk of failure and would be my last choice.Exhaust systems are something I've learned to let the man with the right tools perform.Trying to balance,bend and seat while tightening a clamp,without a lift----no thanks.Just my 2cent. Have Fun!! Daniel

Although your instructions seem clear.I would welcome the mfg's suggestions.Also the ad says to have your alignment checked afterwards.Thoughs? Thanks as always. Daniel

When you get to the rear can you take a photo and/ or measure where the brackets mount.Not all Z's came with rear sway brackets. mine didn't .I have the brackets and need to know the position to weld them. Thanks for your help! Daniel

Xyz, are the end links the same for front and rear.I found some sway bars in my shop and end links.I need to know if there is any difference . Thanks Daniel

Thanks 2mz's. New question.Are the end links that connect to the front and rear swaybars the same or one size fits all?

Doing some spring cleaning and found a tension compression kit.Has anyone used one?Is there any difference in steering?The unit was to have a preload gauge and instructions.I am missing both. Can anyone help?Also I found front and rear suspension tech. swaybar kit.My car was one that did not come with the rear sway bar brackets installed. I have the brackets but,need a photo of the correct location.Measurements would be great .Thanks guys! Daniel

HI Mark,I sure don't recall the ATK not having an oil pan.Mine was years ago.If it didn't the 2400 pan swapped over,I would remember a problem like that.Perhaps the different pan is for turbo/more oil cap?I do recall having a heck of a time getting the dip stick tube out.That will have to be knocked out of the 2400 block from the inside.You can't pull it out of the 2400.I used a nut driver the diameter of the hole and tapped it out.It's a great swap.You'll love it.Let me know when you get it .I've got a visual thing for ya. Have fun!! Daniel

As best I recall my 73 was in the same location as the photo.There was also a sticker on the inside of the hood (same side) I thinkit had the car weight and other info on it.No more calls we have a winner!.In the haynes book about page three it shows an artist drawing of the photo we are looking at.XYZ's sticker location is correct.Or haynes drew his car as the model.

Thanks for the assist 2mz.I did like you ran to the cold garage this morning ,grabbed the haynes book,ran to house.The two illustrations showed 240 style and 260 style.Sorry I should have looked at my car. Have fun! daniel

It does look like the lower part is missing,even though there isn't one to miss.This is especially obvious if the car has been painted.Get a can of flat black spray paint.Spray inside the lower area.Don't get it too heavy on the radiator.You don't want to fill the cooling fins.That should help you. Have fun!! Daniel

The 240 master cyl has the kinda square in front.That is for the front brakes.The tube, pill bottle, looking is the rear.They are reverse on a 260 mastercyl.The larger (square) reservior is always for front brakes because the disc wear faster and need the extra fluid to take up for wear.You would have to cross your lines to adapt.Not good,fear of kink or break.The inside of the mas/cyl is different from a 240.I wouldn't try swaping the reservior locations.Get the correct part!!While its down I recommend replace your rubber brake as lines well. Stopping is a wonderful thing.One tip,some people top off the mas/cyl as needed.I don't.I have a small mark that when it hits it that means I need brake pads soon.If you top it when you replace the pads the extra fluid must be purged from the mas/cyl or it will overflow everywhere. Have fun!! Daniel

Having one to go by would be the hard part.You have that.You could use aluminum or sheet metal.All it holds is vapor.Look how thin a real gas can is!If you wanted start with one of those and cut it to fit.Fold and hammer the seams,maybe put in a few rivets,Then seal the seams with some of that fine quality JB weld or have them silver soldered(stronger).Or have the '72 metal unit cut down to fit.I had a 12x12 inch square cut into the bottom of a fuel tank for a truck I was redoing.I cleaned it out and the welder welded it shut.I know a vapor can is alot easier than that!$150.00 buys alot of tries! Have fun!!! Daniel

That car is probably to contend with the BMW mini cooper.It is to be released in the US in march/april.I drove a prototype of the mini a few weeks ago.ITS FUN!!It had a 4cyl supercharged bmw engine.It put out something like 175 hp!They expect to sell for around $19000.The mini cooper is that little car you see all over europe and in all the movies.BMW bought them a few years ago.

Since the tank is just to collect vapors and is hidden. Why not make it yourself from metal or have a metal shop do it.$150.00?Is that right mike?Why pay that amount for something you know is not going to last?How much would you pay for a 71 that I would make of metal?Is there a market for those? Daniel

The condensor on the coil was a 70's trick to try and stop motor hum in the radio.It won't make any difference on or off.Check the wire going into your distributor and most important the ground wire inside your dist.Clean them up good.They oxidize.look good but are poor conductors.Sometime when a coil goes bad you can pull the main coil to dist wire out and it will have oil on it.Look for hairline cracks in the dist cap. Have fun!! Daniel

Your turnsignal/headlight hi-lo switch is suspect.The wiring diagram shows both head and brake lights go thru that.Let me know what you find. Have Fun!! Daniel

A wise man named Napeoleon Hill speaks of the" seed of equivalent benefit".Your's will come,they always do.It may be that you find a project car and you and your dad spend time redoing it.I know your friends here will do everything possible to get you parts/help.Your character and charity will not go unnoticed.I look forward to the day I have a part you need.IT'S YOURS!!! Daniel

My point was like escanlon.I've seen seats that people redid themselves and thats what they looked like.New skin doesn't look good if the foam under it isn't correct.It's like a new paint job on a rookies body work.Not good.A tip I learned the hard way.Its O.K. to armorall the seat a little. but try not to get it on the threads/seams.It causes the thread to rot.I learned that from the seat man while getting mine redone.Areas I had gotten wet easily separated when pulled.Areas I didn't normally hit were still strong.Too much armorall causes the fabric backing to seperate from the vinylAlso make sure to put a piece of thick flexable plastic between the seat side and the hinge area where the seat back lever lives.If you don't that tiny screw that holds the cover on the lever workings will tear your seat.It didn't take me but two times to figure that out! Have Fun!! Daniel

Yes,the L28 is used as replacement all the time.Use a 240 in/exhaust gasket.It covers the holes where the fuel injectors would have been.If you are using mech. fuel pump move over the fuel pump cam from the front of the camshaft.Everything else just transfers over.There are round and square exhaust port L28.That will determine if you can reuse your stock (square)exhaust manifold or if a shiny new header is in your future. HAVE fUN!! daniel

Had a friend come by with a 72 Z. He was bummed because his drivers side door lock cylinder was worn and difficult to open.He had priced the lock sets and didn't want to have one key for the door and one for the ignition and rear hatch.I switched the lock cylinder with the passenger side as it was like new.How many times do you use that one?Another satisfied customer! Have fun!! Daniel

Hey 'Fink,While playing with my car last night I thought of something from years ago that my help you.I once crossed paths with a guy that had removed the factory "beam"(for lack of a word)that goes across the inside headliner and holds the overhead light.He made one a little larger and mounted 4 small,yet powerful speakers in it.The speakers were positioned so a L and R was behind each seat.Kinda like having the speakers in the headrest or headphones.It was made of lightweight paneling and covered in black vinyl.People thought it was factory.It sounded great and did no damage.It could be put back to factory.With the speakers in the rear, a load of weekend luggage will block the speakers.Not this way. Have fun Daniel

If you were to unscrew the jet too far during carb adjustment.The jet adj. would hit the stop.Its the round "nut" on carb bottom with little balls on it.The bolt on the stop is to keep it securely in place and stop the factory from screwing it too deep into the carb and cracking it.There is no reason to touch the stops.They do not require any maintenance and are factory set. Have Fun!! Daniel

I think what you're talking about is on the carb bottom and looks like a thumbtack on steriods.It is called the jet adjustment limiter.As the name implies it provides a stop at the maximum adjustment point for the jet. Have Fun!! Daniel