Daniel

You could call monza direct.Also most major muffler shops can make it although it might not be as pretty. Have Fun!! Daniel

hey Royce,yeah I should but,I'm just glad to get it posted.I guess I get timed out from my logon while I'm searching for the correct wordage.Thats why the title is called dess instead of dress as my first attempt was named.I hate it when I work on a topic hit submit only to get "you are not logged on".Your a unix man right?Give me a superuser/root password.# DanielLOL

A couple of tips I thought you guys may like.The horn button DATSUN as well as the glove box chrome is long gone.Geta can of spray chrome.Blast about 2or 3 seconds into can top.Touch the filter end of an unused cigarette into the lid.When you touch it to those locations the paint will only adhere to the high surfaces.It doesn't drip .I used that method to do the brake lines under the hood.It's fun,easy .When it wears it so easy to redo.All the emblems can be done this way as well as the fuse door(73).The chrome on the door panels is fixed by going to your home depo type store and getting hvac(heat/AC)tape.This tape is an aluminum foil duct tape.Armorall your door panel.Use alcohol and a cigarette to clean the plastic surface.Cut a strip a little wider than needed.Apply.Use a NON sharp popsicle stick type tool and slide it back and forth along the length of the panel.That creates a crease that tears loose perfectly!It doesn't stick to armorall.These are easy,cheap dressups.They aren't factory but you be the judge.As always with my tips if you don't like it you can put humpty dumpty back like he was. Have fun!!! Daniel

Hey 2manyZ's don't read this out loud 'cause I don't want to start any rumorsLOL . But I was thinking about the fix end of that.I enjoy fixing things.I have too.If thing aren't broken here,I go to my friends houses in search of a fix.ER AH you know what I mean--a REPAIR!.Anyway here I sit with the knowledge and my homemade test equipment and no more broken gauges.Sad oh so sad! Daniel:(

I hope yours works forever!If not ,Take comfort in the fact you now know where to look.I have countless hours checking wires,diagrams,connectors,grounds and crawling on my belly like a reptile across the seats and floor with a volt meter.Just once I'd like to be BEHIND the curve instead of in front of it.Then someone could tell me in advance what the fix is.It ain't easy bein' me! Have fun!! Daniel

I had a problem with my temp/oil pressure gauges.Both would go to normal position then in exact time both would drift down then back up.I had fought that demon before on my fuel gauge a while back and knew it was the tiny tiny little contact in the gauge.Glove box out,clock out, I could reach in and remove the yoke screw.With my hand relaxed like a yoga master I gently slipped it into the temp/oil hole in the dash and undid the wires.There is plenty of room in the back of the dash to slide the gauge to the glove box.I'm 6'3" 200lbs. and have large hands so don't think I have small japanese hands.I disassembled the gauge cleaned the contact with a burnishing tool(ultra fine file) and put humpty dumpty back together again.Better but not what I wanted.After doing this process 5 or 6 times I took the face out of the gauge and reinstalled it.With the car running in my dark garage(the door was open, safety first)I could see A small arc across the points.With the unit disassembled AGAIN. I saw the contact was attached to a strip of stainless then had a wire attached that went to the power feed for the temp gauge.Well,all I need to do is move the wire labeled IGN over to the other connector and I'll bypass the contact and my life will be complete!Install,turn on key,both gauges go to MAX.Remove,disassemble AGAIN!I looked at that simple thing over and over WHY,WHY that should have worked!Then it hit me.Once upon a time a friend had told me that the ballast resistor in alot of GM cars is just a stainless strip 'cause it is a poor conductor!I used a strip of emory cloth dipped in tarnex and slid it between the contact.Oh so carefully I soldered the contact closed.Put the gauge in place using my now too damn familiar one hand in dash one in hole combo.Lay on drivers seat stick hand up from dash bottom to start yoke screw.Then back to passenger side thru glove box to tighen.SUCCESS!!!!The stainless acts a a resistor!Now as soon as the soreness leaves my arms,shoulders and lower back.I"M GOING FOR A RIDE!!!! Have,no, HAD my fun!! Daniel

One more item to check is your thermostat.If its the wrong temp you won't get much heat.I ran a 170 in summer and 190 in winter.I soon found my car loves the 190 always.Also if your thermo is stuck open you won't over heat but,not much heat either.I have seen the blower "fan" break at the connection to the motor.It sounds like its running great,'cause it is! It's just not turning anything.Your answer is somewhere in the list from royce,tomanyz and myself.I cram a sock in the heater driver side duct and crack open the floor vent and my wife ,who loves heat,can toast peanuts on the passenger side.We always say we had the first dual climate car.Have fun! Daniel

I would go back with the 240.Then do your research on what is required and the pro's and con's of the 5 speed.While the 5 speed is out you would want to have it checked out, replace the front and rear seals,Check u joints,tranny mounts etc...If you have a tranny shop doing the custom console,custom tranny swap they will charge you big time for a job they really have no experence.If you make a hurried decision without doing the correct prep you'll most likely be back at the tranny shop.The kind and knowledgeable members of this web site can walk you through each step of the process when you are ready.You'll feel good 'cause you did it yourself and you will have done it correctly! Not to mention you'll have very little use for the tranny shop anymore as you'll be a do it yourself kinda guy! Have fun!! Daniel

I was once told that when you paint a stripe down your car you better want it forever.The stripe etches the metal of the car over time.At a later date even if you take it down to the metal,prime and repaint it.In a short time you will see the edge of where the stripe was.As I say thats what I was told.Fact?Fiction? Have fun!! Daniel

Apply crayon,toothpaste ,wet paint ,wheelbearing grease,pencil lead,a strip of scotch tape, whatever to the hook on your deck lid.Close deck lid.Open deck lid.Notice how much of the "Filler" is missing.This will show you how deep the latch is seating.Mark the location of the latches with a marker(remember we want to be able to put humpty dumpty back together)Adjust latch.Lather,rinse ,repeat. Alcohol will remove your "home position"marks Have fun !! Daniel

There are four vents in each seat.Prior to taking your seats to get redone you need to go to a furniture shop and get the vents they use in vinyl seat cushions.They will be brass.I got 10 chromed for use in my seats.He messed up one,used 8.Thats the only way I know to get the factory look.For the speakers in the rear I bought surface mount.These are in their own enclosure.Velcro has two parts,catch and claw,Buy the claw.It comes like tape with adhesive on one side.Place it on your speaker bottoms.It will "catch" on your carpet.No damage done.My front speakers also had their own enclosure and mounting arms.I placed them under the dash at about where the air vent knobs are.You can't see them but you can darn sure hear'em.Again no damage.As for the console screws drive to a hardware store and tell them what you are trying to do.Then "go fish".I doubt they will be afraid of you driving off will a couple of screws.If so give them a dollar to hold as colaterial. Have Fun Daniel

Now you know what is required to break those 3 things.Thats more than you knew before.Just remember things are not assembled in factories by surgeons,just people.Take your time and keep in mind the key is to be able to put humpty dumpty back together.Draw pictures,make notes before and as you do it.Also remember this.It doesn't matter if your working on a car or a toaster always begin by looking where human hands can touch it.Most of the time that will lead you to the problem. Have Fun!! Daniel

The first rule of race car driving is whats behind me doesn't matter! From the movie gumball rally.On the serious side.The haynes book says use dupont#4817 to repair the bad traces.My 1990 service manual for my 300zx page EL-84 shows the same dupont number.Its shows how to test and repair bad traces.You use a ruler as a straight edge and a drawing pen to apply the silver.Any good art supply store will have the pen.Your local nissan dealer should the 90 300zx service book and could point you toward the dupont#4817.It looks to be an easy job.When job is complete ,dry with a heat gun or air dry 24 hours.If you can't find the book let me know and we'll work that out.Oh yeah I think the "black stuff"is oxidized silver,just like granny's old tea pot. Have Fun!! Daniel

Last week I got a lesson on this subject from a buddy of mine that is an engine builder for GM.When you put the key in the start position it sends 12v to the coil across a seperate wire from the normal run position.When the key returns to the run position it then supplies the voltage( 6 to 8 volts) to the coil across the ballast resistor.The reason is to stop the coil from burning out.The electronic does the same thing it just provides the necessary voltage drop internally.Although electronic is VERY dependable when it dies,it dies.Points get sick first.I have found points to be like a spare tire.If you carry an extra set with you you'll never need them.Thats the same reason I carry my old radiator hoses under my spare tire.That way I'll never need them either!Oh yeah ,I also carry the little plastic top plungers that go in the carb. tops.A guy told me once his broke on a road trip,I guess cause of age?Anyway he was down hard with no chance of finding the part. Have Fun!! Daniel

I have a friend that did that on an old ford.It worked great until the battery died.He couldn't get in the car!What he learned was to run an extra set of wires from the door solenoids to a hidden but accessable location.That way should your battery die you can hook up a good battery to your "life raft" pairs to gain access.Have Fun!! Daniel

Hi guys! I'm Daniel.I,m 45,married to 1 wife and 1 73z.My formal training was electronics/datacom.I fix everything.My friends call me Mcgyver(after the tv show).I rode the computer craze up when it was hot,shorted it when it was not.I've been retired for about 2 years.I hope to get some photos of my Z in soon.I bought it new,drove it through school and about 15 years ago took it down to the ground for over a year.I basically replaced every nut ,,bolt ,bush,u joint etc.I hated it being down but now I,m glad because then you could get parts from nissan.I've redone 3 other 240's and sold them.I really enjoy this site thanks Mike.Have Fun!! Daniel

I darn sure understand your concern.I really doubt it will happen.The steel mills don't need the metal.They aren't making anything.Some have already gone bankrupt.Even though the gov't is running the money presses full steam I would be very surprised if they could allocate funds for such an unneeded project at a time when accounting issues make them more nervous than a dog in the kitchen of a vietnamese resturant.

Hey royce,I have had limited success by putting a hose clamp around the top of the tube (the end the shaft slides out of).Play with it to find proper tention.its not pretty,but perhaps it will get you by till you find the correct replacement. Daniel

I think what you ask is the fast idle screw.It lives on the balance tube at the top of the short linkage that attaches to your carb throttle shaft.The book calls for 2mm gap.This is really not critical.The screw is used during carb adjustment,not as idle adjuster.As long as its not touching anything when your throttle is at rest,your O.K. Have fun! Daniel

HansEric ,Your car looks great.Your front bumper guards are upside down,but most wouldn't notice.I have a used datsun side emblem for the right side you are welcome to if you can figure out a way to get it.Have Fun! Daniel

I don't recall any when I think of lifting the carpet to get into the storage boxes on my 73.My aftermarket carpet has it attached to the carpet.I think the screws that attach the luggage straps would have been longer if padding was factory.Just a guess.Have fun! Daniel

Boy reading the troubles on this fine website sure takesme back down memory lane!Broke bolt 10 oclock.Yeap!I ran one like that for years.I put the extra sealant on the gasket.Never had any problems.If I may offer a trick for future use.Any time you try to remove a bolt/nut that has been in place for a long time.First try to tighten it aLITTLE don't force.Then as you remove the bolt/nut.Remove a little then run it back down some.Continue this until removed.This forward motion clears the threads of crap that the reverse motion loaded into the threads.It turns easier and won't break them off! Have Fun! Daniel

The driver side armrest is no longer avail.There is a piece of metal that attaches to the foam of the arm rest.Use jb weld and apply a thin coat over and around the metal plates. This will save your armrest.I also coated the underside of my console where the choke attaches.I love that stuff! There is also a JB Quick that dries in 4 minutes.It doesn't have the heavy holding power of the original but,it works great on light jobs and you don,t have to wait overnight!!

I can't say about the carter carb but,the stock 240 vapor lock occured when the car sat running on hot days.Summer traffic jams were the worst! When your moving the air flow prevents it.Since your car likes cold hates hot. I would make sure your choke is turning off and your air filter is correct/clean as lack of air thru the filter acts as a choke.You could have enough rust and junk in your fuel line that the sediment collects and starves your engine.When you shut it off the debris falls back down.Check your filters.Have fun! Daniel

Royce's words are indeed true.If your fear of aftermarket is that it will take away from the value of your car. I think the odds of a buyer saying"I would buy it but I'm looking for one with original rubber bushings are VERY slim!