Daniel

It seem that based on Carl's history with removal. I would suggest a machine shop. Perhaps they can drill it out and rethread to an available part or make one to fit the datsun thread.. I cant see that being very expensive.

Of course the easy terminal cleaning and volt check at connection would be great if that did it. I doubt it . With the window on, go side to side with a volt meter. Each line is small bare wire. Think like this, One bare wire with a volt meter on it will read no volts because the wire is the path of least resistance. Now cut the wire between the test leads. Now you have a voltage reading and have found your bad trace. Repairing is another can of worms :tapemouth . Hope this helps.

Trust me there is no adjustment that can be done to the gauge. It's all in the tank float. If you ground the wires that attach to the tank sending unit and you do not show full then it's time to find a gauge.

make sure BOTH of your choke cables are working. If one slips you get that problem.

I put my bet on the turnsignal switch making intermit contact. I suggest replacement with a used working unit. Any bending of such just prolongs the replacement that will need to happen. The photo last photo you show that reads"switch wasn't getting pushed" Note the white square plastic sw that is near the bottom of the page. Note the small rectangle cuts in it. The cut on the left shows a bright shiny copper contact inside the cut. the other does not. There should be a fiber leg that locks the contact pad in place. The left is broken off. That is high beam contact you see.It will burn out soon if not repaired. I fill my switch bottom with silicone. It takes the pressure off of the old tired fiber legs.

Keep in mind that insulation does have some sound deadening, but thats just a bonus. Its made for thermal. Make sure you get a product made for sound,If thats what you want.There is a big difference between the two. As for the hot foot on a trip. I cut a piece of that dense foam that they sell as a knealing pad for gardners. I keep it under the carpet at the base of the seat. When I need it on a trip I just lift the carpet and slide it forward. The cushion really helps the heel and stops the heat.

I installed the nissian motor sport crossed drilled once. I hated that each time you hit the brakes the air holes make them go...RRRRRRRRR. I removed them.

The mech pump is fine. You really need a lift if at all possible. Crawling like a reptile will hurt for days.Also consider replacing the rear main seal while your there. I have used long socket extentions in the top engine to tranny holes as a guide.Lining the shaft up is a bitch and you dont want to be slamming into the clutch. Myself I would want TWO helpers. Be safe!

Tomo perhaps a junk yard would have one as a pattern. I took mine to an upholstery shop. Had it made of soft leather and made the stiching match factory(shifter cover). It cost only $20.00 The emer brake cover was $15.00

With only 4 bolts as long as you start with the wheel straight it very obvious if you're off. Carl ,that tying it off is a good thought, but those bolts are a pain in the butt even with the wheel free. Mriz,that replacement of the coupler will give you a definite better feel. You're sure to notice it.

'59 ghia is correct. He missed the hose from the lower crankcase that also has the small hose that goes to your dist. vaccum advance. That hose is larger on the engine side. As for the warmer, I got some some aluminum hose from the parts store and just used a small wire to attach it to the header. That was required for state emissions here and it does help on cold mornings

Hopefully simple will be the fix!! I fought that same demon on my '46 chevy truck and that doesn't get much simplier-straight 6, 1barrel. The valves were way out of adjustment. Once adjusted correctly, it ran like a new motor. I'll keep my fingers crossed for ya'.

Certainly bending some new metal over the tranny/cutting a new hole would be easier.Then all the rubber seals would line up correctly also. As for changing the shifter length, it makes me wonder about the change in force that is now applied to the shifter/tranny connection. It may not be a problem but it seems there would be more stress due to the longer shifter.

Carl, I would guess it was lack of use/oxidation. Perhaps just working the button multiple times will resolve it. Also new motor can be bad. Have you tried a test light in place of the motor? That may also be a good way to zap current across those contacts to clen them off.

MikeW said it correctly. Keep the cables lubed and you will be far ahead. The mounting jobs posted are excellent work. If you still have the choke attached to the console I offer this tip. Remove the cables from the carbs. Cut a drinking straw in half and slip it over the cable to where the cover of the cable becomes a bottom in the straw.Wrap with duct tape.I then use a coat hanger as a support and hang them from my hood latch. Put some oil in the straw and leave it overnight. The next day the cable will slide as never before. Do this every few years.

First guess, Broken speedo cable. To test unscrew it from the tranny and turn it while someone watches the speedo for needle movement.

Replace them. What the hell, As posted its cheap,if the time is not exactly now it will be soon. After knocking the races out use a bench grinder and wear away the outside edge of both the inner and outer race. You really can't grind too much.Its the high (tall)side you want to remove. When you install the new race turn the old grinded race upside down. That mates to the face of the new race...Tap on..When the new race is seated your "tool"race will easily come out. Save them. I've used the same grinded set for over 30 years.

Zed is correct. The switch will last longer when placed AFTER the load. Tomo as for the direction of flow in a DC circuit,Thats just like the which came first the chicken or the egg. Its been an ongoing discussion for years by those that electro brains. Which came first the acceptor or the donor on the atom. Therefore the discussion does DC flow pos to neg or neg to pos,,The chicken or the egg.

Tomo, He is still using one SWITCH for on /off. My point is that a RELAY is held in the on position by electricity. Should something occur that shuts off that power to the relay it will drop out. That is the concern. Remember you are discussing ADDING relays. Sure the factory used a single switch,it being turned on/off manually it doesnt care about the status of the electrics. As for fuse placement you would want it as close to the power source as possible. The fuses job is to protect the wiring.If you have a 10' wire and fuse is on the end away from the supply.Should that wire short behind the fuse it will melt and burn because it has no protection. With the fuse at the power source the total wire length is protected. Think about your house. The fuses(breakers)are as close as possible to where the power is supplied.Even if you have a sub-panel(secondary panel) at another location in your home it is FIRST fused at the nearest point to the supply. I hope this helps develop a thought or two.

Think about this. Dark night and you loose a headlight for whatever reason that it blows a fuse. Oh, yeah, Your driving in the mountains at 60 mph. I want TWO fuses. I also want my high/low left/right on different fuses and relays.If a stone pops my left light and it blows the fuse,I still have my right because its on a seperate relay and fuse. This is the correct method. Please don't risk your life on those that guess at a resolution.

Just a thought and it depends on your skills. Would you be better off swapping the good body parts to the 72, instead of moving 72 to 70? At least you have something you can drive every now and then.

I speak 240 so that being said. The cable to the heater valve is bent or has slipped at the securing point,therefore causing it to bottom out early . That will perhaps help. The real problem is leaking moisture . Does the door panels have plastic barriers that are sealed ? The moisture getting in is problem1 Needing the heater to resolve it is problem2. Worn rubber seals also cause this.IF the car has working A.C. that will kill it fast,as it takes the humidity from the air rather than trying to act as a clothes dryer with the vent closed. The last fix comes from my scuba diving training. If you spit into your mask and rub it around it won't fog. Errr--Just dont do it on a date!!!

I agree with abis. Unless you enjoy torture... Make sure you have it on lift or pit. Crawling with your body like a reptile is a young mans repair. :tapemouth

Im having to answer based on 240z. There really is no adjustment on the gauge. To test when the switch is off it should go to E or more left. Add 12v and it should go to max full. The sending unit in the tank has a small screw that allows you to adjust the output to the gauge. It looks like a metal finger that is pulled across a file. That area usually get gunked/rust etc. and that is the first thing to check/clean. Make note of the adj. screw as if you replace the unit you'll need to adj it to function with the gauge. Make sure the connections at the ouside of the tank are fresh also.that may save you from removing the unit.

I used "chrome" paint and a cigarette filter. Put enough paint in a cup to just cover the bottom. Touch the cigarette filter to the paint. Because the DATSUN is raised as you touch the filter that is wider than the letters it will only touch the top surfaces. It's so much fun you'll wish you had more to do.I also used that to paint my brake lines in my engine compartment.No drips fun and easy.